Peco Twistlock Turnout Motors

[JohnDMJ]

29 minutes ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

 

Apologies for being a little "optimistic" with the drill diameter, having only drilled holes (both from above correctly and below bodgingly!) on EM copperclad/timber type turnouts, 4mm is adequate, and whilst I don't take issue with your assertation, is 6mm or 7mm required for the amount of point blade deflection on Peco points?

 

Mike.

Measure the gap between the blade and its adjacent fixed rail. Add some latitude for the actuation arm from the point motor and drill accordingly.

[JohnDMJ]

On 22/11/2019 at 20:33, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

 

Apologies for being a little "optimistic" with the drill diameter, having only drilled holes (both from above correctly and below bodgingly!) on EM copperclad/timber type turnouts, 4mm is adequate, and whilst I don't take issue with your assertation, is 6mm or 7mm required for the amount of point blade deflection on Peco points?

 

Mike.

 

Measure the gap between the blade and the stock rail, allow a bit for the flexing of the rod from the point motor to the tie bar and drill!

[Ron Ron Ron]

I saw these Twistlock turnout motors at Warley yesterday and had a play with the working demo rig.

 

Quite neat, but I’m surprised Peco didn’t choose to produce a motor drive (slow-mo) type motor instead of another solenoid.

[Michaelsutton1u]

It would be good to see a video of this being installed for an electrofrog point set up. For those of us that aren't that good with electrics. Certainly seems easier to install than Pecos PL10 Point Motors. Maybe someone could lend a hand and draw out some diagrams? 
 

[Butler Henderson]

I'm still unsure how they are easier to install. You can align a PL10 on an mounting plate on top of the point and mark drill points in the same way as the template with these, and such templates for the PL10 are available from a third party. The PL10 can then be bolt fixed in place and if the mounting plate has 4 fixing points (some third party ones do) then the two holes are drilled diagonally and then after being bolted in place and tested the other 2 fixing points are screw fitted and the bolts removed and the holes filled in. The one thing that is simpler is the ability to replace a faulty point motor but really should a manufacturer be promoting such as the implication is that the motor is not of high quality.

[Dunsignalling]

14 minutes ago, Butler Henderson said:

I'm still unsure how they are easier to install. You can align a PL10 on an mounting plate on top of the point and mark drill points in the same way as the template with these, and such templates for the PL10 are available from a third party. The PL10 can then be bolt fixed in place and if the mounting plate has 4 fixing points (some third party ones do) then the two holes are drilled diagonally and then after being bolted in place and tested the other 2 fixing points are screw fitted and the bolts removed and the holes filled in. The one thing that is simpler is the ability to replace a faulty point motor but really should a manufacturer be promoting such as the implication is that the motor is not of high quality.

Everything has a finite working life and, in my experience, when one does die, it's always one that's tricky to get at.

 

These will be going in as replacements in such locations as and when required.

 

The thing I really like is the positive attachment of the polarity switch unit, as I've always considered the need to use glue or a bit of carpet tape to fix the old ones to be rather amateurish.

 

John

 

 

 

[Richy59]

Sorry to drag up an old thread but can someone explain how I am supposed to wire up the supplies microswitch for frog polarity changing?

 

It’s my first ever attempt at point motor installing, and I’ve been able to do the basic wiring for basic functioning, but can’t work out the instructions for the microswitch 

 

Cheers

[Michaelsutton1u]

As well as Richy 59. I am also looking to wire up the micro switch. Pecos Video is pretty useless in showing how they are actually wired. If anyone could lend a hand that would be great! Diagram perhaps?

[Chilly]

No takers for this yet ?

 

This would be of interest to a few people including me l

[Dunsignalling]

On ‎10‎/‎04‎/‎2020 at 19:18, Richy59 said:

Sorry to drag up an old thread but can someone explain how I am supposed to wire up the supplies microswitch for frog polarity changing?

 

It’s my first ever attempt at point motor installing, and I’ve been able to do the basic wiring for basic functioning, but can’t work out the instructions for the microswitch 

 

Cheers

The microswitch should have three terminals. As it is intended for use in this context, two will be inputs;  effectively from each of the running rails though, depending on your methods, you may be taking the feeds from elsewhere in the wiring leading to them.

 

The third terminal provides the output to the live frog, so as the point motor moves the blades, it will also switch the frog polarity to that of the appropriate rail for the route set. 

 

So long as the instructions identify which terminals are which, it should be a doddle.  If it doesn't work as it should, the only cause can be having the two inputs wired back to front, so just swapping them over should cure any problems.

 

Don't forget that Peco Electrofrog points are designed to work without a separate frog polarity feed, so follow the instructions relating to the changes required to the links on the underside.

 

John 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 11, 2020 by Dunsignalling

[Tim Stevens]

I installed two under-board Twistlock point motors on my son's new layout, which uses Peco Code 75 Bullhead track and points (very realistic by the way!).  No problem in fitting the Twistlock motors themselves.  The "twist-lock" is a good concept and allows easy replacement in future if a motor fails.  We tested the set-up and it worked fine, similar to the older type Peco point motors that we have used successfully in the past.

 

The points are Unifrog, and we wanted to wire them as "live frog", so we fitted the Peco accessory switches to the underneath of the motors.  Again, a simple "twist-lock" fitment, which in theory should work fine.  But when we tried to operate the points, they jammed and would not move properly.  We removed the accessory switches and the points worked perfectly again!  On investigation we found that the accessory switch sliders seem to move in an "arc" rather than in a straight line, so they jam the movement of the point motor pin every time.  Why on earth did Peco make them like that?  Very unsatisfactory, and not up to their usual high standards.

 

We considered installing alternative microswitches, but in the end we decided to avoid the problem altogether by using the points in "dead frog" mode.  Fortunately, all our locomotives seem to run through the points without stalling, even at low speeds.

 

Message to Peco: please modify your Twistlock accessory switches so they work properly!

 

[Peter749]

I have used these point motors on the part of the layout that is away from the fiddle yard

 

They are quite easy to set up - stick paper template to board and drill three holes thru it.

The screws have two plastic washers placed on them and are screwed in to the pilot holes with the actuating rod coming thru the bigger hole in the baseboard.

 

One problem is they are pre wired and on two different motors a Green return wire has come loose from inside and I can not see a way to re attach it.

A lot easier to line up and attach to the baseboard

 

I have not used the versions with Microswitches as my layout is all Insulfrog

 

Peter

[Chris M]

6 hours ago, Peter749 said:

I have used these point motors on the part of the layout that is away from the fiddle yard

 

They are quite easy to set up - stick paper template to board and drill three holes thru it.

The screws have two plastic washers placed on them and are screwed in to the pilot holes with the actuating rod coming thru the bigger hole in the baseboard.

 

One problem is they are pre wired and on two different motors a Green return wire has come loose from inside and I can not see a way to re attach it.

A lot easier to line up and attach to the baseboard

 

I have not used the versions with Microswitches as my layout is all Insulfrog

 

Peter

I had one Twistlock. Very easy to set up, even the switches. Worked very well and I was most impressed - until a wire fell off. It was the red wire that fell off mine. The point motor worked fine for a few months and then suddenly stopped working. I checked all my wiring and it was fine so undid the connectors to the Twistlock and the red wire just dropped to the ground. 
 

[The Stationmaster]

13 hours ago, Chris M said:

I had one Twistlock. Very easy to set up, even the switches. Worked very well and I was most impressed - until a wire fell off. It was the red wire that fell off mine. The point motor worked fine for a few months and then suddenly stopped working. I checked all my wiring and it was fine so undid the connectors to the Twistlock and the red wire just dropped to the ground. 
 

Single solid core wire or multistrand?

[Chris M]

It is multi strand cable. The exposed end has been soldered and it looks

like it has been bent right after the solder was applied . Strange that it worked for a few months and then just fell off. 
 

I should send it back to Peco but haven’t got round to it yet. I quite sad because I’ve always had a high regard for Peco products . Needless to say that, despite being a very good piece of design work, I will be reluctant to buy any more.

[Chris M]

This is the wire that fell out . The long soldered end was attached to my connector block and the short soldered end is what fell out of the point motor. I wonder if it was damaged during manufacture but just about hung on by a thread. I’ve never known a wire just fall off like that without causing electrical connectivity problems first.

[Peter749]

I contacted Peco and they sort of said "how sad, never mind" and told me to return it to the point of Sale, Hattons.

You have to fill in a form when returning an item and as it is used will they call that wear and tear?

 

Peter

[Chris M]

That’s not what I would expect from Peco. I bought mine from a local shop but I no longer have the receipt So I can’t really return it even though it must be less than a year old. I can’t get too bothered about a replacement for an item of small value.
 

The problem for Peco is that by providing less than excellent customer service they will quickly damage a reputation that has been built over many decades.  

[Butler Henderson]

15 hours ago, Chris M said:

That’s not what I would expect from Peco. I bought mine from a local shop but I no longer have the receipt So I can’t really return it even though it must be less than a year old. I can’t get too bothered about a replacement for an item of small value.
 

The problem for Peco is that by providing less than excellent customer service they will quickly damage a reputation that has been built over many decades.  

As they have only been available for less than a year suggest it could be worth contacting them

[Chris M]

Based on what Peter said there doesn’t seem much point of in contacting Peco. I’ll stick with using the traditional Peco motors as I have had high reliability from them over many years. 

[Butler Henderson]

Less than a year old and no assistance from the "manufacturer" strikes me as being one for trading standards to investigate.

[Wheatley]

2 hours ago, Butler Henderson said:

Less than a year old and no assistance from the "manufacturer" strikes me as being one for trading standards to investigate.

Trading Standards will tell you to return it the point of sale as your contract is with them, not the manufacturer. What happens between the retailer and the manufacturer/supplier is their problem. The idea is that the customer's problem gets resolved at the point in the supply chain nearest to them, not somewhere two or three stages back. 

[Aber Halt Junction]

I'm about to buy a few of these for my layout. I haven't found hardly ANY information about these online and this is about the only location that has anything resembling review. Does anyone (apart from the odd wire breaking off and the potential issue with the microswitch) have any feedback on whether these are a good option? I don't want to go down the standard solenoid route as I'm not the best at soldering, so am happy to pay a few quid premium, assuming there is nothing fundamentally wrong with them? Cheers in advance. 

[Peter749]

On 16/09/2020 at 17:05, Aber Halt Junction said:

I'm about to buy a few of these for my layout. I haven't found hardly ANY information about these online and this is about the only location that has anything resembling review. Does anyone (apart from the odd wire breaking off and the potential issue with the microswitch) have any feedback on whether these are a good option? I don't want to go down the standard solenoid route as I'm not the best at soldering, so am happy to pay a few quid premium, assuming there is nothing fundamentally wrong with them? Cheers in advance. 

Having fitted these Point Motors to under board locations they are quite easy and apart from a few stray wires quite reliable

My DCC layout has no soldered wires.

 

Peter