Jump to content
 

Track Plans for Compact O Gauge Layouts


hartleymartin
 Share

Recommended Posts

Inglenook shunting layout in 9' x 2' (270cm x 60cm). O scale, standard gauge, using Peco Points and 4-6 yards of flexible track. The design is for three baseboards, 3' x 2' (90cm x 60cm) with all points in the middle board. I have included a kick-back siding off the "long" siding (capacity 5 wagons). The main shunting neck can accomodate 3x wagons and some fairly large locomotives - you could fit a mainline tender locomotive if you wanted. No suggestions as to what buildings or scenery would go on the layout - that is up to the individual. You could also curve the sidings slightly to suit personal tastes.

 

It could be built as a portable layout with the main legs supporting the centre board and legs at the outer ends of the two outer boards. 3' x 2' boards if stacked or framed together could fit into the back of a hatchback with folded down rear seats or the rear of a station wagon (I believe you call them "estate cars" in the UK). If things go according to plan, I might actually build it myself. But I hope that this proves that you can have a functional O gauge layout in a small space.

 

Not shown are the baseboard join lines, which should be at 90cm and 180cm from the left-hand edge respectively. The one on the right should be the 10cm line to the left of the thick line shown on the diagrams - will learn how to use this software in greater detail soon.

 

Using 1x left and 2x right points:

 

O_Gauge_Inglenook_02.png

 

Using 1x left, 1x right and 1x wye points:

 

O_Gauge_Inglenook_01.png

 

If you curve the bottom-right siding inwards slightly you can get this layout on an 18" or 45cm wide baseboard.

Edited by hartleymartin
  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

As ever, slanting the track at an angle would make it look better and gain a couple of inches.

 

I think this also shows that 3 x 3' boards is just a bit small to work properly. 3 x 4' boards would still be easy to transport but look and work much better.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Martin,

 

Great topic!

 

With the new Peco setrack points I reckon you could fit a 5-3-3 inglenook into 7 feet, based around two baseboards. I would imagine it could even be squeezed some more with short wheelbase stock and small locos, although that little extra length would allow the plan to breath a little more. 

 

Have you seen Gilbert's Bakewell Street inglenook layout in the forum? That's an absolutely stunning layout, build with standard Peco turnouts, and is only 8' long. 

 

See link here (hopefully Chris won't mind me sharing): 

 

David 

Edited by south_tyne
Added link
  • Like 4
  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I was playing around with some points and then re-examined the O gauge Inglenook.

 

As it turns out, it is entirely possible to do a traditional 5-3-3 Inglenook in under 8 feet length using the Peco 6ft radius streamline points. If you're only using very small wagons (16ft over headstocks) you can actually manage a 7-4-4 (8 at a squeeze in the long siding). The shunting neck can easily accomodate 3 short wagons and up to a 50ft long locomotive, or 4 wagons and a 30ft-ish long locomotive (think Austerity/J94 or 3F Jinty size). In fact, if you were willing to stick with the short wagons and nothing bigger than the Ixion Hudswell Clarke, this plan could be cut down by 150mm at each end and still fit.

 

This was done using a single LH and RH point each and attaching four straight tracks (I have not yet figured out how to do curved tracks properly on this new CAD software). This version does require that the right-hand point be laid right up on the end of the board, with the rails soldered to brass screw heads or similar to hold them in place.

 

I've drawn the boards as 120cm long by 60cm deep, but if you curve the sidings the board can be narrower - probably 45cm. I think 30cm might be a bit too much of a squeeze.

 

The reason for thinking of this layout is that I bought a 120cm x 60cm sheet of foam board this afternoon and it fits more than easily onto the back seat of my little hatchback. I'll be planning future layouts around getting the baseboards onto the back seat and carrying the rest of the equipment for the layout (locos, stock, etc) in the boot of the car.

 

8ft_Inglenook_O_Gauge.png.1841cb58188e3edffdc3336054b2ce02.png

 

Edited by hartleymartin
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

I've built an 5-3-3 Inglenook in 0, I managed to get it down to 6'6" x 16".

I used the Marcway 3-way point (kit) and built my own copper-clad track

to match.

I use Lima/Big-Big 16t opens and various 0-6-0 & 0-4-0 locos, this is for

the kids to operate at shows so they need to be robust!

It's a lightweight, 1 piece baseboard (cardboard) that will (just) fit in an

average sized 5 door hatch or small estate car (or my van!)

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, jcm@gwr said:

I've built an 5-3-3 Inglenook in 0, I managed to get it down to 6'6" x 16".

I used the Marcway 3-way point (kit) and built my own copper-clad track

to match.

I use Lima/Big-Big 16t opens and various 0-6-0 & 0-4-0 locos, this is for

the kids to operate at shows so they need to be robust!

It's a lightweight, 1 piece baseboard (cardboard) that will (just) fit in an

average sized 5 door hatch or small estate car (or my van!)

 

That sounds great jcm! Have you any photographs you can share, as I would be interested to see more? 

 

Cheers,

David

Link to post
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, hartleymartin said:

I've got some old Atlas Code 148 points - 24" radius! It matches up with Peco Code 143 O gauge track, but I think 24" will defeat my trains. My H class Manning Wardle and my 0-4-0 Barclay go through it, but wagons won't stay coupled!

I have a pair of Dapol 7 plank open wagons that will just negotiate 24"  (627mm) radius curves out of the box. After replacing the three link couplings with Dapol screw link couplings they manage the reverse curve through a pair of 24" radius points with ease. A couple of drops of glue on the joints of the screw link couplings makes them much easier to couple and uncouple.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 25/03/2019 at 02:04, south_tyne said:

 

That sounds great jcm! Have you any photographs you can share, as I would be interested to see more? 

 

Cheers,

David

 

Hi Dave,

 

I've never been able to post photos (can't get my phone to talk to my 'pooter)

But here's the address of an (old) thread on another forum where my mate,

and fellow club member, Dan posted some. It includes some of the underside

to show how it was built.

mrlforum.co.uk/forums/index.php?app=forums&controller=topic&id=2465&page=2

Sorry, but I can't seem to get it to be a link!

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, jcm@gwr said:

 

Hi Dave,

 

I've never been able to post photos (can't get my phone to talk to my 'pooter)

But here's the address of an (old) thread on another forum where my mate,

and fellow club member, Dan posted some. It includes some of the underside

to show how it was built.

mrlforum.co.uk/forums/index.php?app=forums&controller=topic&id=2465&page=2

Sorry, but I can't seem to get it to be a link!

 

Cheers! Don't seem to be able to get that link to work I will see whether I can track it down on that forum. 

 

David

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...