DCC Concepts End of Train Lights - Help Needed

[richscylla]

I'm having an issue with the DCC Concepts DML-EOT Light kit and I was wondering if anyone could tell me what I might be doing wrong. 

 

I picked up the kit a few weeks ago and I've wired it up today as per the online wiring diagram (https://www.dccconcepts.com/themencode-pdf-viewer-sc/?tnc_pvfw=ZmlsZT1odHRwczovL3d3dy5kY2Njb25jZXB0cy5jb20vd3AtY29udGVudC91cGxvYWRzLzIwMTYvMDMvTkVXLWluc3RydWN0aW9uLWlubmVyLWZvci1FT1QtTGFtcC5wZGYmc2V0dGluZ3M9MTExMTExMTExMTExMTEmbGFuZz1lbi1VUw==#page=2&zoom=auto,-74,370)

 

I think that I have done this correctly, however when the circuit is completed (and I'm expecting a flashing light) all I get is a single flash and then nothing else. I can de-connect and re-connect and get the light to flash over and over, but as soon as there is a constant connection I get the single flash and nothing more. I have tried the switch in both positions on the EOT Control, and have even tried another EOT Control from the pack but I get the same results. 

 

Other Information:
I'm using a Bachmann EZ-Command Controller. I have tried it on the DCC and Analogue output with the same results.

I'm not using a DCC decoder - rather connecting the red and black wires directly to the power source (Track).
I have connected the HALL Trigger as per the diagram.

I have emailed DCC Concepts - but I'm still waiting on a reply so I thought I would ask here too. 

 

If anyone could offer any advice that would be great. 

 

Many thanks,

 

Rich

[Dungrange]

I've not used these, so I am only guessing, but since you are not using a DCC decoder, you must be relying on the Hall trigger to turn the EOT control on and turn it off again.  My reading of the instructions is that if a magnet passes within a couple of millimetres of the Hall trigger it will turn the circuit on and that you would then remove the magnet.  That is, the magnet should only be close to the Hall trigger for a short period of time.  When the same magnet passes within a couple of millimetres of the Hall trigger for a second time, it will turn the EOT control off.  That is, I think the Hall trigger should toggle between two states.  However, when you say about a 'constant connection', I'm wondering if you have interpreted this a when the magnet is close to the Hall trigger then it should be on and when the magnet is removed it should go off.

 

I don't think that the position of the switch on the EOT matters as it seems to just control the flash rate.

 

Hopefully someone who actually knows how these work will be along soon.

 

[Junctionmad]

The magnet needs to briefly trigger the sensor and the led should start flashing , retriggering the sensor will stop the flashing , so make sure you dont have the magnet near the sensor . Also  if you are testing the system , you need to move the magnet  reasonably quickly away from the sensor, if you leave it near or move it  very slowly my experience is you can get  false triggers. and hence it briefly is enabled and then disabled 

[richscylla]

It seems the issue was me triggering the sensor incorrectly - now working fine! Thanks very much for all your advice!

[Pegleg90]

Evening, 

apologies to un-earth this thread, finally sitting down to wire one of these up onto a flask wagon. The two tiny wires that come out of the EOT light moulding, are these insulated? 

Many thanks in advance

Ali

[newbryford]

They are enamelled wires - so yes - they are insulated.

To solder to them, you will have to remove the enamel/varnish coating.

 

I've found that by melting a small blob of solder on the iron and then placing the end of the wire in the blob usually melts it off and tins the copper quite nicely.

Some enamel does take a bit of shifting, so may need scraping off a bit before the heat can really get through and melt off the rest.

 

As an aside, for those that don't want to use the Hall trigger, it can be removed and two of the three wires connected together - I can't remember the exact two, but I think it's purple and yellow. I have it in an email somewhere.

Then the EOT can be switched on permanently or from a decoder.

 

Cheers,

Mick

 

 

 

 

Cheers,

Mick

Edited December 29, 2019 by newbryford

[Mooresby]

I'm also having some issues with these lights and wonder if anyone can illuminate me (please excuse the pun)....

I have wired the unit up as per the video that Everard Junction posted a while back ie the yellow and purple wires are connected together to remove the need for the hall trigger, the white wire is essentially redundant and the remainder of the unit is wired as per instructions with a resistor added.

All that seems to happen is that the chip gets extremely hot and the LED is very dimly lit.

Ive experienced this on a number of chips and also with different harnesses - any ideas?

Edited July 3, 2022 by Mooresby