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Hobb's Bridge Goods N Scale (Billy Bookcase Layout)


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This looks really interesting Duncan. The proximity of the tunnel mouths to the action slightly reminds me of the Cattewater branch in Plymouth.

If you don’t know it have a look at some of the first photos in this link:

 http://www.cornwallrailwaysociety.org.uk/cattewater-branch1.html
 

The way the railway tunnels run straight into the cliff face next to the sidings is really interesting.

Different scenery from the area you’re doing but maybe there’s some ideas there?

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Good Evening,

I have today positioned the three turnouts marking the position of the tiebars accurately so I can form holes/slots for the drive pins. I have cut the track pieces to approximate  length, final trimming will be made as the track is pinned/glued down. The track will be laid on 3mm cork (not shown in the photograph) which will enable me to locate uncoupling magnets within the cork layer and be invisible after ballasting.

On this small layout shunting will effectively take place continuously therefore it will be essential that coupling/uncoupling is fully automatic. I will use either DG or Sprat and Winkle... have you any recommendations?  I have also marked the position of the road tunnel to be cut through the backscene for access to the power station.

IMG_2181.JPG.473bab0e299a40cb14d42d62b64eea1c.JPG

 

I am also undecided about the shaping of the board dividing the layout from he hidden sidings, currently as shown above it is a rectangle therefore the finished land surface will run across it , but should I reshape the topedge to match the land surface, oh decisions decisions!

Cheers

Duncan

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Hi Duncan,

The layout looks promising, and shunting action after your superb Shirebrook layout should be very enjoyable.

 

A friend of mine ( @Laurie2mil )  who models 2FS uses DG and they certainly work well on his Yeovil Town layout. I think they are very common among the Finescale community so that should give some comfort for you in N gauge.

 

Rich

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On 07/07/2020 at 19:24, Cowley 47521 said:

This looks really interesting Duncan. The proximity of the tunnel mouths to the action slightly reminds me of the Cattewater branch in Plymouth.

If you don’t know it have a look at some of the first photos in this link:

 http://www.cornwallrailwaysociety.org.uk/cattewater-branch1.html
 

The way the railway tunnels run straight into the cliff face next to the sidings is really interesting.

Different scenery from the area you’re doing but maybe there’s some ideas there?

The Cattewater Branch looks very interesting as a modelling project. Surely someone has modelled part of it or based a model on it. Thanks for sharing,

Cheers

Duncan

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Hi Everyone,

I have made a little progress over the weekend. The track work is Peco code 55. I temporarily pinned it down to establish the locations for the drive pins that will be connected to servo motors below.

 

IMG_2183.JPG.f234c2b9d37e64f6853f022f48a37d86.JPG

 

Here I have positioned a few wagons to get the feel of the layout. The ground level nearest the camera falls away quite rapidly into a rocky gorge, therefore at the moment the tracks and track bed appear to be floating in the air. It will become much more realistic when I start forming the scenery and viaduct at this end of the layout.IMG_2188.JPG.17999df74e53f49ecfae017bd0058015.JPG

 

Looking down from high up on the hill at the other end of the layout you can clearly see the road tunnel to the nuclear power station. I have laid a bed of 3mm cork and started to trim to shape. I used this thickness so that I can bury magnets below the track for the auto uncoupling system. The track will not be glue and pinned into place until the magnets have been installed.

The rear 'backscene' board has been sanded and painted with 2 coats of undercoat white ready for a sky to be added.

Cheers

Duncan

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Like it.

I’ve got a rather a big magnet issue because although I neatly buried them under the track in three places they don’t seem to work unless I move the couplings away from between the centre of rails.

 I really don’t fancy digging them back out again but I’m going to have to at some point (Argh).

 

 I’m looking forward to seeing this when you start building the scenery up. 

Edited by Cowley 47521
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8 hours ago, Cowley 47521 said:

Like it.

I’ve got a rather a big magnet issue because although I neatly buried them under the track in three places they don’t seem to work unless I move the couplings away from between the centre of rails.

 I really don’t fancy digging them back out again but I’m going to have to at some point (Argh).

 

 I’m looking forward to seeing this when you start building the scenery up. 

It may be that you have the poles of the magnet to the left and right of the track as opposed to between the rails, east -west as opposed north south if you understand me? Where did you get them and what 'system' are they for-DG?

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1 hour ago, Duncan. said:

It may be that you have the poles of the magnet to the left and right of the track as opposed to between the rails, east -west as opposed north south if you understand me? Where did you get them and what 'system' are they for-DG?


Thanks Duncan. They’re these magnets: 

D2F90668-02C2-4D7C-B640-12A06A56F8D6.jpeg.61ea14888c67993bd9f1aac784b6d5ea.jpeg

 

And I’ve got the Dapol couplings, is that what you meant by DG?

I’ve not done this before and having talked to a friend about I thought I’d done it correctly and foolishly didn’t test it before ballasting...

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1 minute ago, Cowley 47521 said:

And I’ve got the Dapol couplings, is that what you meant by DG?

I’ve not done this before and having talked to a friend about I thought I’d done it correctly and foolishly didn’t test it before ballasting...

Morning,

No DG couplings are replacement couplings, there are other types such as 'B and B' and 'Sprat and Winkle'. They are all etches which need bending, forming and glueing to the rolling stock. They all offer delayed action so you can uncouple but still propel uncoupled wagons into a siding. They are all less obtrusive than the standard rapido or knuckle couplers. The 2mm finescale modellers will use one or other of these systems as standard.

There isn't much shunting on Shirebrook and with the large number of wagons I stayed with the rapido couplers except for one rake of PGAs  (stone opens) which I used the knuckles, they did not perform any better than the rapido ones. On Hobbs Bridge Goods the layout is entirely shunting with zero passing trains, therefore a fully automatic shunting system is required, the continual appearance of the 'hand of God' would be a tiresome distraction for both operator and viewer. I have plumped for the Sprat and Winkle brand. I have used DG before but I think Sand W will be easier, time will tell!

Cheers

Duncan

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Duncan,

 

I used to be a member of the Crawley Club, where on their 7mm layout they use the 4mm S&W couplings for improved appearance. They don't construct them 'as is', but cut the 'paddle' from the hook and solder the hook to brass wire. The wire is then bent 90°, passed through some brass tube, then bent back 90° and pointing downwards slightly with a counter balance added to the last length or wire. The brass tube is then soldered to a small piece of brass angle, strip or sheet, which is then glued to the rolling stock. Locomotives are only fitted with a wire loop.

 

It worked very reliably once all set to the correct height and offset. Unfortunately 2mm is the smallest coupling, so no downsizing available for us!

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

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5 minutes ago, Mark Pelham said:

They don't construct them 'as is', but cut the 'paddle' from the hook and solder the hook to brass wire. The wire is then bent 90°, passed through some brass tube, then bent back 90° and pointing downwards slightly with a counter balance added to the last length or wire. The brass tube is then soldered to a small piece of brass angle, strip or sheet, which is then glued to the rolling stock.

Hi Mark,

Can you sketch that for me?

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11 hours ago, Mark Pelham said:

Duncan,

 

I used to be a member of the Crawley Club, where on their 7mm layout they use the 4mm S&W couplings for improved appearance. They don't construct them 'as is', but cut the 'paddle' from the hook and solder the hook to brass wire. The wire is then bent 90°, passed through some brass tube, then bent back 90° and pointing downwards slightly with a counter balance added to the last length or wire. The brass tube is then soldered to a small piece of brass angle, strip or sheet, which is then glued to the rolling stock. Locomotives are only fitted with a wire loop.

 

It worked very reliably once all set to the correct height and offset. Unfortunately 2mm is the smallest coupling, so no downsizing available for us!

 

Cheers,

 

Mark


I’ll have a look at that. Thanks for the advice.

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On 13/07/2020 at 09:14, Duncan. said:

Hi Mark,

Can you sketch that for me?

 

Hi Duncan,

 

Apologies for the delay, couldn't find the files on my PC so had to get the info from a friend:

 

1136576526_14-07-202017-57-54.jpg.08d0c0c132e25ea9c1b21413a4147765.jpg

1998711583_14-07-202017-57-33.jpg.0045cde69821a610188e78cc15634928.jpg

367521014_14-07-202017-56-53.jpg.468eac02f6f4dccb9450f52c09bc4867.jpg

 

Hope that helps!

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

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On 13/07/2020 at 09:08, Mark Pelham said:

I used to be a member of the Crawley Club, where on their 7mm layout they use the 4mm S&W couplings for improved appearance. They don't construct them 'as is', but cut the 'paddle' from the hook and solder the hook to brass wire. The wire is then bent 90°, passed through some brass tube, then bent back 90° and pointing downwards slightly with a counter balance added to the last length or wire. The brass tube is then soldered to a small piece of brass angle, strip or sheet, which is then glued to the rolling stock. Locomotives are only fitted with a wire loop.

 

It worked very reliably once all set to the correct height and offset. Unfortunately 2mm is the smallest coupling, so no downsizing available for us!

 

4 hours ago, Mark Pelham said:

1136576526_14-07-202017-57-54.jpg.08d0c0c132e25ea9c1b21413a4147765.jpg

1998711583_14-07-202017-57-33.jpg.0045cde69821a610188e78cc15634928.jpg

367521014_14-07-202017-56-53.jpg.468eac02f6f4dccb9450f52c09bc4867.jpg

 

Mark,

Butting in on Duncan's thread, but I like that idea a lot.  Nice and neat, small and unobtrusive.  That requires some further investigation :)  Thanks for posting the pictures - I presume X and Y are cutting points.  I like that the locos only have the loop which would really help the visual aspect.

 

Rich

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10 hours ago, MarshLane said:

 

 

Mark,

Butting in on Duncan's thread, but I like that idea a lot.  Nice and neat, small and unobtrusive.  That requires some further investigation :)  Thanks for posting the pictures - I presume X and Y are cutting points.  I like that the locos only have the loop which would really help the visual aspect.

 

Rich

 

Hi Rich,

 

Yes, 'X' and 'Y' are cutting lines, but looking at the diagram now it looks like the 'X' line passes right across the etch, which is incorrect.

 

I've just checked the notes again, and 'X' and 'Y' are optional cut lines, 'Y' for if additional length is required; 'Y' would also need an increased counter-balance.

 

This design will have been seen in operation at exhibition on 7mm layouts such as CMRS' 'Rothern Bridge' and possibly its predecessor 'Tilgate', and more recently on 'Ellis Road', 'Harlyn Road' and 'Newhurst' (under their previous respective ownership), and currently on 'Harlyn Pier'.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

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This week's Progress

I have had a busy week (I continue to work from home) which combined with domestic duties has limited time for working on Hobbs Bridge Goods. Track was cut to size and positioned but not fixed down last weekend.

IMG_2188.JPG.5def715e32d39d13734bc82c2971325b.JPG

 

Tuesday I had a delivery of Sprat and Winkle couplings, magnets and electro magnets. This are positioned in the cork base below the sleepers and will form the automatic uncoupling system. However the thickness of the magnets required an extra layer of cork so they did not stand proud. If I had realised this the first layer of cork would not have been cut  to the shape shown above, I would have left it as a full sheet.  

Once a second layer of corks was glued down cutouts were made for the permanent magnets and 5.5mm holes drilled for the electromagnets. 1mm holes were also drilled for track feeds dropper wires and switch wires to the frogs.

IMG_2191.JPG.d4a899d18897a865a905990aebd11a35.JPG

The track used is Peco code 55, just a note and I don't mean to be patronising, (but I have seen a lot of incorrectly laid code 55) here is a photo of the underside of the track, you will notice that there are many more cuts in the plastic base in one side than the other, this side should always be on the inside of a curve as shown in the photo.

IMG_2189.JPG.b6046f11850a79bc3eb7d71a12a245f8.JPG

 

Beneath the baseboard I have installed the electro magnets and servo motors to operate the points.

IMG_2192.JPG.795598a050fe4dba41f6b99f6c6385be.JPG

Wiring it all up will be the next task.

Finally I include a photo from the viaduct of the now fixed trackwork. Faultless operation is my top priority and I have taken care to avoid any dog legs at joints. The cork 'flap' to the right hand side will be part of the road access to the miniature goods yard. It will join the public road that runs across the photo passing beneath the head of the run round loop.

IMG_2190.JPG.8721fe4238cfec08fb27ef81be4f129e.JPG

Cheers

Duncan

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Hi,

I have spent a little time today cutting expanded polystyrene into a rough shape at the viaduct end. I also installed the 'pier' between the girder bridge over the road and the first arch of the viaduct. I hope you can see these features in the photos below.IMG_2194.JPG.56a6b0281b02a37d5e58a8c84ab1b4cd.JPGIMG_2193.JPG.baad793cae9f3114d72921568eccb5d1.JPG

The polystyrene will be covered in lightweight 'One Strike' polymer and standard polyfilla- for the rocks.

Cheers

Duncan

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The Good, The Bad and The Poorly Functioning Servos

Evening ,

I have been wielding various knives at the polystyrene again (The Good), making a huge mess (The Bad) and getting upset about the point motors (the Ugly). Below there are a couple of pictures of the Good, the landform is really shaping up now.

This photo taken from the falling road lets us peep into the sidings before the road falls beneath the former main line.

IMG_2207.JPG.584b68eff395a35235ae5205ab258e4b.JPG

 

Here we have a view looking up from below what will be the viaduct,  a brake van and barrier wagon are waiting to have the flask wagon re-coupled to them ready for the journey back to Sellafield or was it Calderhall in those days...

IMG_2206.JPG.4ead961801e1b101b66d99decf7b197b.JPG

Here is a view in the same direction but taken from almost the same level as the former through line from the other end of the viaduct.

IMG_2205.JPG.a88febeec67479640f8fe0667103d1ea.JPG

 

Lastly  a view from above the tunnel looking towards the viaduct.

IMG_2208.JPG.7d629fc8167d86a961b2b7fb39206a04.JPG

I am very disappointed with the Peco Smart Switch servos and Smart Frogs, , I'm thinking of changing to DCC Concepts Cobalt point motors-but it's quite an expense and there's the problem of fitting the units...umm....

Cheers Duncan

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4 hours ago, Duncan. said:

The Good, The Bad and The Poorly Functioning Servos

Evening ,

I have been wielding various knives at the polystyrene again (The Good), making a huge mess (The Bad) and getting upset about the point motors (the Ugly).

 

I am very disappointed with the Peco Smart Switch servos and Smart Frogs, , I'm thinking of changing to DCC Concepts Cobalt point motors-but it's quite an expense and there's the problem of fitting the units...umm....

Cheers Duncan

 

Hi Duncan,

I have no experience of the PECO items you mention, but have used servos with a Megapoints board before. They are simple to install and easy to setup, cheaper than Cobalts, depending on the number involved. Have you considered going down that road?

 

Rich

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4 hours ago, MarshLane said:

 

Hi Duncan,

I have no experience of the PECO items you mention, but have used servos with a Megapoints board before. They are simple to install and easy to setup, cheaper than Cobalts, depending on the number involved. Have you considered going down that road?

 

Rich

HI Rich,

Do you have a link or a website or information on these Please?

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16 hours ago, Duncan. said:

I am very disappointed with the Peco Smart Switch servos and Smart Frogs, , I'm thinking of changing to DCC Concepts Cobalt point motors-but it's quite an expense and there's the problem of fitting the units...umm....

Duncan,

 

Is it the servos themselves that you have an issue with, the control board, or the whole concept?

 

The reason I ask is that I *think* the Peco smart switch uses those Tower Pro servos with the translucent blue case? They aren't the greatest servos in the world. I used those (with Megapoints as it happens) on a layout, but changed them out for HobbyKing HK15178 servos (only a couple of quid each) which were much better quality.

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