PECO ACCESSORY SWITCH - RELIABLE?

[TEAMYAKIMA]

Hello

 

I am using Peco OO/HO code 100 points in my fiddle yard with point motors fitted underneath

 

I need to fit a reliable switch to turn on a waring light when the road is set to a headshunt - how treliable is the Peco accessory switch ? Is there an alternative?

 

Also I'm embarrassed to say that I haven't experience of how exactly the accessory switch fits - any photos?

[Butler Henderson]

The PL-13 is not reliable over time in my experience, the PL-15 is but expensive  - both fit the underside of a Peco Point Motor. Also unreliable over time IME is the Seep PM1 point motor that has a switch built in.

 

For what you are wanting to do a microswitch should suffice either fitted next to the point and worked by the end of the tie bar or fitted underneath  and worked by the movement of the motors operating rod. The microswitch should not be too strongly sprung  as otherwise it will prevent the point from changing.

 

Hattons Peco like point motors come with a build in crank perfect for operating a switch

https://www.hattons.co.uk/185267/Hattons_Originals_HAT_PM_01_Solenoid_point_motor_including_pin_extension_and_2_way_arm_for_use_with_points_a/StockDetail.aspx

 

Alternatively instead of using a solenoid consider a slow motion point motor that has switching built in  ie DCC Concepts Cobalt which is available also with a built in dcc decoder.

[gordon s]

I agree with BH. Before I changed over to Tortoise motors with built in switches, I used off the shelf micro switches with long actuators. Totally reliable and easy to install.

 

[RedgateModels]

I stopped using them for frog switching and used microswitches as above. I still have one that triggers the signal servo controller on the catch point though. Never let me down in that application. So maybe ok for your purposes. They just glue to the point motor - I used good old UHU.

[Pete the Elaner]

I used 8 points all fitted with PL-13s on a layout a few years ago.

2 of these failed at a show. I felt a 25% failure rate was disappointing.

I have never tried a PL-15.

[Zunnan]

I find the PL-13 to be an awful bit of kit, I've had failures from the slide seizing up, the PCB insert falling out or slipping just enough that it no longer makes reliable contact. They don't like being removed from the motor either. I try to avoid them at all costs, and the only reason I have to work with them is because someone else has provided them and I've had to subsequently maintain them (rip them out and use a PL-15 more like!)

 

The PL-15 however, well worth every penny! I have twin microswitches that I bought 25 or more years ago that have been used on several layouts and are still going strong. The only failures I've had from those have all been of my own doing with a soldering iron.

[Graham108]

Has anybody used the 'new' format PL-13 switches? I have several of what I'm assuming are the old / original style which have round pin connectors, similar to the point motors. I bought some last week and they have a flat spade connector now.

I added them to my storage sidings so they control power to the relevant track - as I have already done with the old ones. However they don't appear to work as multiple trains move at the same time. Having ripped out the wiring and re-installed I still have the issue - so it appears that power is being fed to both outputs regardless of the switch position.

Anybody else experienced this please?

 

[Gilbert]

I have had a number of PL13 failures including one that did not seem to work out of the packet yesterday (in the stash from a few years ago to be fair). I'm currently refurbishing a layout for home use at the moment and I'm using them as I originally installed them when I built it about 7 years ago. New layouts for exhibiting now use Cobalts which I've found to be reliable.

However I've used the PL15 as a replacement on one layout which has Peco PMs - so far so good.

[Joseph_Pestell]

I agree with many of the above. The PL13 is poorly designed and poorly made from inadequate lightweight materials. Ask yourself the question: if I was building a machine for use in a commercial/industrial context, would I use this? Of course you would not.

It also impacts on the performance of the PL10 that it is attached to. So a double fail really.

My preferred option is a multi-pole switch on the control panel but that does, of course, increase the amount of wiring. For changing frog polarity, a microswitch is a good option and available very cheaply.

[Butler Henderson]

A lightly sprung microswitch working off the movement of the solenoid rod is a far ore reliable solution that the PL13 which is clear example of Peco charging for too much for something that is for too cheap for the job its meant to do. Sourcing a microswitch that is so lightly sprung so as not to affect the performance of the PL10 may be an issue. Once appropriate ones could be sourced from Maplin, described along the lines of being an V4  alarm switch IIRC, I did try some from Rapid and they were far too strong.

[Graham108]

Thanks for the replies - I think I might have sussed out my problem.

 

Looking at the Peco website they offer the PL-31 which is a packet of wires (10) with spade connectors for use with the PL-13 - the packet also includes 5 shrouds to cover the connectors. Whilst I was wondering why there were 10 wires and only 5 shrouds I looked at my switches and they are so close together the connectors were slightly touching in places - which is presumably why Peco provide covers for one wire per switch.

 

I've ordered some replacement insulated spade connectors so will see if that solves the problem.

 

I agree with the comment about using something more reliable - however I bought the PL-10's years ago (I have 36 installed) so wasn't up to funding replacements. Next time I will certainly look further into what's available.

[Zunnan]

2 hours ago, bartram108 said:

I agree with the comment about using something more reliable - however I bought the PL-10's years ago (I have 36 installed) so wasn't up to funding replacements. Next time I will certainly look further into what's available.

 

The easiest way around is to replace the PL-13s as and when failures eventually occur. Rather than replace the PL-10 at the same time I'd just swap out a failed PL-13 with a PL-15 and keep the PL-10 unless that has also failed. I've still got a few PL-13 soldiering on without issue, if it isn't broke (yet), no need to fix it after all.

 

I think insulated spades will more than likely solve your current issue, alternatively a bit of insulating tape between the rogue contacts or wrapped around one or both connectors currently being used will also provide a reasonable temporary fix. My own usual go to is heat shrink sleeve, but that's a bit overkill.

[MG 7305]

I have been through both of these and am now onto Gaugemaster DCC80.  Easy to fit, solder to appropriate places and therefore do not need accurate adjustment as per PL-15.  I am told they are not solid state so may be or not be reliable over the long term but so far so good (4 years plus).  Both the PL13 and 15 suffer from either or both contact oxidation or (PL-15) contact movement.  Time will tell.

 

Best regards

 

Julian

[Guest Half-full]

14 hours ago, MG 7305 said:

I have been through both of these and am now onto Gaugemaster DCC80.  Easy to fit, solder to appropriate places and therefore do not need accurate adjustment as per PL-15.  I am told they are not solid state so may be or not be reliable over the long term but so far so good (4 years plus).  Both the PL13 and 15 suffer from either or both contact oxidation or (PL-15) contact movement.  Time will tell.

 

Best regards

 

Julian

How many points can you connect to each board?  I just looked at them and its 3 for £20?  I really hope you can add a lot more than one point per board!

 

Im still working my way through a bag of 100 microswitches I bought for £10 a few years back.  Powering my and my friends layouts with no problems at all

[Graham108]

14 hours ago, MG 7305 said:

I have been through both of these and am now onto Gaugemaster DCC80.  Easy to fit, solder to appropriate places and therefore do not need accurate adjustment as per PL-15.  I am told they are not solid state so may be or not be reliable over the long term but so far so good (4 years plus).  Both the PL13 and 15 suffer from either or both contact oxidation or (PL-15) contact movement.  Time will tell.

 

Best regards

 

Julian

Sorry no good to me as I only run DC

[MG 7305]

5 hours ago, bartram108 said:

Sorry no good to me as I only run DC

They are not DCC dependent, they detect shorts and switch not AC or DC.

[Wingman Mothergoose]

So is the general consensus that the PL-13 is rubbish and not fit for purpose? 
I’m in the process of wiring up my layout, in my scenic section all of my point motors are PL-10’s, and I was looking for a way to indicate point position on my control panel. If the PL-13 is no good is there an alternative? 
 

Chris

[RFS]

On 26/05/2020 at 09:45, bartram108 said:

Sorry no good to me as I only run DC

 

On 26/05/2020 at 14:51, MG 7305 said:

They are not DCC dependent, they detect shorts and switch not AC or DC.

 

The DCC80 is for DCC only and will not work on DC. If you want a DC switch then the alternative is the Gaugemaster GM500. And for anyone wanting the same function on a DCC layout where the turnouts are DCC-operated, the GM500D ("DCC-friendly") can be used instead of the DCC80.

Edited July 4, 2020 by RFS

[Gilbert]

1 hour ago, Wingman Mothergoose said:

So is the general consensus that the PL-13 is rubbish and not fit for purpose? 
I’m in the process of wiring up my layout, in my scenic section all of my point motors are PL-10’s, and I was looking for a way to indicate point position on my control panel. If the PL-13 is no good is there an alternative? 
 

Chris

I've started using the PL15 where I've got Peco PMs on an existing layout. This appears more reliable so far but is a little pricey.

[Wingman Mothergoose]

9 hours ago, Gilbert said:

I've started using the PL15 where I've got Peco PMs on an existing layout. This appears more reliable so far but is a little pricey.

Yeah, I’m not sure if I can stretch to using the PL-15 due to the cost. I’ll buy some PL-13’s and see how I get on with them. I will of course feed it back to this thread....

 

Chris