Hornby loco drive Princess none DCC ready

[MikeHunter]

Having  failed to find a guide for this loco, I started hard wiring it this evening. Thought the best place for the decoder would be removing the weight in front of the motor. Got it fully wired, put it on the track to test, and it shorts. Seems the problem is the way the suppressor and wires from the tender pick ups reach the motor is the problem. They all seem a bit of a mess. Does anyone know whether I just need to remove the lot? Or is there a work around to keep them?

Edited March 17, 2019 by MikeHunter

[sunbeam.20]

Suppressors, capacitors etc need  to be removed, they only upset the decoder back emf. Having hard wired dozens of Hornby locos I am not sure what your  problem is as they are so simple. Perhaps a photo or two to  show your issue?

Have a look at tcsdcc.com where there are a few Hornby installations. There are most likely other ones on the net too.

Matthew

[MikeHunter]

1 hour ago, sunbeam.20 said:

Suppressors, capacitors etc need  to be removed, they only upset the decoder back emf. Having hard wired dozens of Hornby locos I am not sure what your  problem is as they are so simple. Perhaps a photo or two to  show your issue?

Have a look at tcsdcc.com where there are a few Hornby installations. There are most likely other ones on the net too.

Matthew

Thanks Matthew. I've previously done a couple of Bachmann Jinties without problem. Suspect there is a rogue wire somewhere still connecting to the motor. 

[sunbeam.20]

I have learnt that removing the factory wiring and starting afresh is quicker and easier. Removes all the unknowns.

Matthew

[Art Dent]

2 hours ago, sunbeam.20 said:

I have learnt that removing the factory wiring and starting afresh is quicker and easier. Removes all the unknowns.

Matthew

 

The only wiring to leave in place is that from the wheel pickups at the wheel end (cut as close to the motor as possible).

 

The reason I say this is usually there isn't a lot of room behind the wheels to get a soldering iron in and leaving the two wires (one on each side) saves some time and grief.

 

Art

[MikeHunter]

On 18/03/2019 at 14:35, Art Dent said:

 

The only wiring to leave in place is that from the wheel pickups at the wheel end (cut as close to the motor as possible).

 

The reason I say this is usually there isn't a lot of room behind the wheels to get a soldering iron in and leaving the two wires (one on each side) saves some time and grief.

 

Art

Thanks Art, I'll bear that in mind. Scheduled to have another go at it this evening.

[MikeHunter]

Thanks for the comments. Attempt 2 went as follows:

1) removed suppressor and wires from tender pick ups

2) unscrewed the motor, and soldered the two wires from the chip replacing the previous wires.

3) removed the metal weight from the front of the chassis (inside the boiler, leaving room for the chip

4) soldered the other wires from the chip to the wires from the wheel pick ups

5) insulated all soldered joints

6) refitted the body

7) programmed

8) tested an run on layout

success!

I'll have to write it up properly, take some screenshots and add it to the DCC fitting guides. Duchess next, which has the same chassis.

[Art Dent]

Glad it worked for you Mike.

 

Art

[MikeHunter]

Written it up, and added to the fitting guides: