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Posted (edited)

   The reason this is a forum not a blog, is that I want it to be more interactive, so it's more of a conversation. 

 

 Carrying on from my previous forum, what does wheel diameter mean (https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/143198-what-does-wheel-diameter-mean/&tab=comments#comment-3501533),I continue the process of researching and gradually building the taff vale o1 class in 00 gauge.

 

Step 1: finding a chassis

 

We start off with the chassis - a triang jinty chassis with a Hornby Scotsman bogie wheel at the back to create the 0-6-2 pattern.

 

However there is an issue with this. The wheels are very chunky and struggle to negotiate a particular set of points. The engine ended up completely getting stuck and this caused the ancient motor to pour out smoke - not a good sign!

 

I'm not sure, but I reckon the motor has lost some magnetism. It seems to run slow now and gets to a certain speed where it doesn't go any faster until you move the controller knob a lot - basically not very consistent running. The motor also emits sparks whilst running now.

 

So I may have to source a new chassis. The max I'll have to spend is 20 odd quid on a new Hornby railroad jinty and steal the chassis off that.

 

But is there still a chance to repair the old chassis (apart from finding someone who can re magnetise the motor)? I wondered if I could fit a new motor. I've got a new Hornby motor spare, from the modern equivalent of the triang chassis. 

 

So any help on any of the questions raised would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance ^_^

Edited by GWR5764
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Posted (edited)

 Which version of the Hornby chassis is it? There have been several since Tri-ang days (it goes back to the early ' 50s). The latest has the rather puny Chinese motor (but cheap to replace) and drives on the centre axle which has traction tyres and the rear axle is sprung. It works OK if everything is set up correctly, I was rather surprised....  The previous version had the latest version of the ancient, but reliable X.04 ( now X.03*) with a black plastic worm and grey gear and drove on the front axle. I'm assuming it's this one. New motors are available on eBay or even exchange reconditioned ones. An X.04 would do as the only real difference is the brass gear, which can be swopped over. (It needs a puller but can be filed off .:secret: Obviously keeping the filings out of the motor. The black worm will come with a little persuasion.... However if you have a new motor it should just drop in. It's held in by a single screw and slides out backwards. The magnet should be strong enough to support the motor from a screwdriver. With the motor out check everything runs freely before reassembly. A good mechanism will run happily on a 9V PP3 battery though not very fast.

 

Smoke from a stalled motor suggests that the insulation has been damaged possibly causing shorted turns - a failure which will need rewinding. The slow running would seem to confirm this.

 

The wheels are rather robust and really need the generous tolerances of something like Peco code 100 Streamline. The back to back should be 14.2mm, which is a bit tight for scale trackwork.

 

* Just to confuse things the first of these motors were also X.03!

 

Edited by Il Grifone
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Thanks. I've attached a picture of the chassis. It is from a triang pannier no. 8751. 1553196294019519375219.jpg.a057affe72516da43eff4ed9e587188b.jpg

 

The motor I want to fit is the new Hornby China motor of which I have also attached a picture of. 

15531960155151117101763.jpg.fdfddc42f9f4fa25151e9051ccd2e3b1.jpg

How would I go about wiring the motor up. The chassis has copper pickups for the wheels only on one side of the chassis whilst the motor is for a chassis which has the usual both sided pickup system. 

So how would I attach the motor up. I am able to solder and I do know about that battery trick so I'll try that when testing it

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Posted (edited)

It looks like I've misunderstood both chassis and motor.

 

The pannier is the last version of the Tri-ang chassis with an X.04 motor and the other the SSPP chassis with the a sprung rear axle. There is a Hornby mount for fitting this motor in the earlier chassis I believe, but they are rather hard to get hold of.

 

I thought that your intention of reversing the chassis meant that would drive on the rear axle as there won't be room in the boiler for the motor otherwise. I thought you meant this one.  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hornby-OO-Gauge-0-6-0-R052-R058-LMS-Jinty-Loco-Motorised-Chassis-Serviced-3/312513703085?hash=item48c344acad:g:hq4AAOSw6fBcfC6j

 

The Hornby chassis is this one.   https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hornby-OO-Gauge-0-6-0-R052-R058-LMS-Jinty-Loco-Motorised-Chassis-Serviced-3/312513703085?hash=item48c344acad:g:hq4AAOSw6fBcfC6j 

 

There should be a second phosphor-bronze strip on the other side, but pick up could be through the chassis if DCC is not to be used.

 

The Tri-ang/Hornby motors sit rather high and fitting inside a boiler can be a problem, but there is a Airfix motor which doesn'r require so much height, but again laying hands on one is not so easy. https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rmweb.co.uk%2Fcommunity%2Fuploads%2Fgallery%2Falbum_3162%2Fgallery_12119_3162_216860.jpg&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rmweb.co.uk%2Fcommunity%2Findex.php%3F%2Ftopic%2F98156-5-pole-x04-type-motors%2F&docid=Sm2eQcBxHTUIaM&tbnid=j_WNaPeHKwLfGM%3A&vet=10ahUKEwiyqoS2j5bhAhU2WxUIHfl-CUAQMwhNKAwwDA..i&w=864&h=1152&client=firefox-b-d&bih=664&biw=1302&q=airfix mw005&ved=0ahUKEwiyqoS2j5bhAhU2WxUIHfl-CUAQMwhNKAwwDA&iact=mrc&uact=8

 

Edited by Il Grifone

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I would stick with the old X04 powered chassis.  It benefits from some packing or washers between the gear and the chassis and is better with the 5 pole Airfix MRRC motor or a 5 pole armature in the X04, I use K's motors, but my Jinty chassis 5 pole X04 powered Farish 94XX has been shunting at my terminus for around 30 years with very little attention.

The later chassis is nothing like as robust.

 

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Thanks for your help. It seems to be that there is no easy way of fitting the new motor (well it was new about 7 years ago) to the triang chassis. But I have found the rest of the parts from the chassis that new motor came from - I had to fit a new worm gear to the driving axle as the old one had worn out (which was why the motor was taken off and used for spares). 

As the chassis has been frequently robbed for parts, I will have to add some of these back eg. The pickups have been used, so I'll solder some more on from a spare ringfield tender. 

This chassis is going to be better than the old triang one, because the motot should fit under the boiler (just) and it is smoother, quieter, and stops less on dodgy sections. I have used this type before in previous projects (I used one as a replacement for the out of scale noisy Lima chassis for the 94xx, now she's much better), and had success. 

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