Fitting Real Coal to Bachmann 56xx

[vulcanbomber]

Is the piece of plastic which hold the plastic coal easy to remove?. Can't get access to Bachmann service sheets at the moment

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

The service sheet won't help you any, doesn't show the bodywork construction, only that of the mechanism.

 

It is quite while since I had one of these to look at, but its construction may well be like that of several Bachmann tooled tank locos in which there is a separate moulding for the bunker and cab rear spectacle plate, that fits on the footplate which is part of the main body moulding. The main thing securing this (apart from a little plastic cement) is a screw attached cast block that fills the bunker - on at least one model the 'coal' is actually part of this casting.

 

Take the body off the mechanism, undo every screw under the bunker and cab area, and see what comes lose. A little wiggling and possibly a few snapping noises and most Bachmann steam loco bodies come apart neatly...

Edited March 22, 2019 by 34theletterbetweenB&D
torrection of cypo

[The Johnster]

There is a problem in that the plastic coal is integral with curved lamp iron shield extension moulding to the bunker rear sheet.  I have 2 baccy 56xx in service, one of which has had the plastic coal carefully removed and the bunker half-fillled with real coal.  I gunned at doing this again on the other loco, which has a layer of real coal on top of the plastic. 

 

I wish RTR manufacturers would give us empty bunkers!

[gwrrob]

It really isn't worth the hassle of taking the model apart to do this. I agree with above and would just sprinkle coal dust over the plastic coated in pva.

[vulcanbomber]

Followed your suggestion

 

 

Thanks

[The Johnster]

One of the simplest and most worthwhile improvements one can make to a steam outline model; makes a massive difference to the look.  

[Il Grifone]

Removal of the fake coal and then add real coal is the way to go IMHO. Most models* are already overfull of the fake stuff and there is insufficient room to add any more. I even did a Hornby Dublo Castle once! (Thick tough zinc alloy that takes a lot of cutting!)

 

* There are a few honourable exceptions.

[Ray Von]

Just a tip for future reference, I use a pepper/salt grinder to grind small bits of coal into a nice chunky dust.  Makes a lot less mess and can be stored away for future use. 

[The Johnster]

3 hours ago, Il Grifone said:

Removal of the fake coal and then add real coal is the way to go IMHO. Most models* are already overfull of the fake stuff and there is insufficient room to add any more. I even did a Hornby Dublo Castle once! (Thick tough zinc alloy that takes a lot of cutting!)

 

* There are a few honourable exceptions.

Worst ever was the Airfix (later Dapol and Hornby) Dean Goods, which had a massive pile of plastic coal in the tender to hide the motor.  I doubt it would have made it off shed in such a condition without a serious spillage in reality.  Real steam locomotives spend most of their working lives with the level of coal well below the point at which it can be seen from alongside the loco, and one hears tales of expresses running in to London termini with nothing but dust in the tender after rough trips.

 

Empty bunkers please, manufacturers.  Perhaps you could include a pack of real coal in the box.

[Sir TophamHatt]

Hmm.

Inspired me to look at mine.

 

I have an open fire so already got real coal.  Just have to wrap some up and smash it... or wait until the bucket is empty!

[The Johnster]

The dust and sweepings from the bag will be about right for 4mm loco use, and in wagons.