toplink@()1989))(( Posted March 28, 2019 Share Posted March 28, 2019 Hi I'm scratch building some wood bodied coaches for my layout in styrene and I hope to finish them in teak. I was wondering if anyone could point me to a "How to" thread or video perhaps. Thanks in advance. Cheer's, Pete. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted March 28, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 28, 2019 (edited) Mike Trice has done several threads on here outlining how he 'teaks' his stock. Try the search function. Edit to add a couple of links Edited March 28, 2019 by chris p bacon 3 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted March 28, 2019 Share Posted March 28, 2019 Pete, Show us what you're up to and post some pic here or on my My/our coach building thread. Cheers Scott 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted March 28, 2019 Share Posted March 28, 2019 There is a useful guide on the Phoenix Paints website. https://www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/teak It's something I'll have to try in the future as I have a few kits I want to finish in teak or faux teak. So any recommendations are useful. Or I could just cheat and paint them in BR livery. Jason 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieR4489 Posted March 28, 2019 Share Posted March 28, 2019 Here's how I do teak: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/143104-jamier4489s-workbench/&do=findComment&comment=3509086 Jamie 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon4470 Posted March 28, 2019 Share Posted March 28, 2019 Another vote for the Mike Trice topic here. I was very unsure about how to reproduce teak. Following the method that Mike showed gave good results easily i.e. with my limited artistic flair! Mike also had a topic about improving the Rails Dynometer Car - that included a video of some weathering. The quality of the teak finish on that model was outstanding (in my opinion) Jon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glover Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 I too have used the Mike Trice method, on my scratch built Great Northern Railway (Ireland) coaches. Its actually much easier than applying a more conventional livery. Below are the basic ingredients and a finished coach. Go for it! Glover 3 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted March 29, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 29, 2019 Interesting topic, I've had mixed results. I'll see if I can find the photos. Cheers, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
toplink@()1989))(( Posted March 29, 2019 Author Share Posted March 29, 2019 Some awesome results there chaps! On 28/03/2019 at 14:13, gobbler said: Pete, Show us what you're up to and post some pic here or on my My/our coach building thread. Cheers Scott I will try and take a couple tomorrow, I have a couple of coaches underway, a Great Eastern 6 wheeler and a GC bogie coach from a very tatty drawing that I have had for over 25 years, no idea of the diagram . Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted March 30, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 30, 2019 Very interested in the GE coach 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
toplink@()1989))(( Posted April 28, 2019 Author Share Posted April 28, 2019 Sorry it has taken so long to post an update chaps but as you know life often gets in the way. Any way here are some photos of my projects. First up my GC coach sides. I had tried to paint one with a teak finish that I failed badly! Now my GE coach sides. So using the Mike Trice suggestion I have bought my paints. Not wishing to start straight on my coach sides, I decided to make up a coach'ish panel using some spare Ian Kirk coach kit parts. And after assembling and spraying with white primer. Once that has dried, I will paint with the Pumpkin acrylic. More later! Cheer's, Pete. 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted April 29, 2019 Share Posted April 29, 2019 Nice models..... Please post some show and tell on how you do your sides in my thread. Or go into more details here......please. Carry on the good work Scott 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravenser Posted April 29, 2019 Share Posted April 29, 2019 (edited) Doing a credible teak finish has been a notorious modelling problem since at least the 1930s..... About the only people who have ever made a total success of it were Doncaster Works , in 304mm/foot scale (faux teak on steel stock) Edited April 29, 2019 by Ravenser 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted April 29, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 29, 2019 The LNERCA seem to have the hang of it too Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted April 29, 2019 Share Posted April 29, 2019 (edited) My method Edited April 29, 2019 by micklner 5 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted April 29, 2019 Share Posted April 29, 2019 (edited) Drag and blend the colours across each panel. All panels should be various shades of "Teak". You can thin the colour with Turps if needed, before the paint has dried. Edited April 29, 2019 by micklner Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted April 29, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 29, 2019 (edited) Many years ago there used to be wood grain paint available for doing such things as garden fences. Applied correctly it gave a reasonable grain look to non grainy wood. Maybe someone should do that for LNER Teak? If you want to see how much they varied have a look at the collection of photos, the colour ones are further down the page: https://www.steve-banks.org/prototype-and-traffic/133-teak-coaches Edited April 30, 2019 by melmerby Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold teaky Posted April 29, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 29, 2019 I'd recommend reading this, courtesy of Mike Trice. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted April 30, 2019 Share Posted April 30, 2019 (edited) That single panel you've done on the middle photo looks really good, the full panels look gret too. What brush do you use, or did i miss that? Scott Edited April 30, 2019 by gobbler Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted April 30, 2019 Share Posted April 30, 2019 Probably a good time to summarise my current method. Base coat of Halford's Filler Primer Thin coat Vallejo Bright Orange (70.851) and Orange Brown (70981). Vallejo Flat Brown (70.984) dry brushed over the panels to give some variation to the panels or specific panels picked out in different shades Coat of Klear to seal. Graining coat of Vandyke Brown Oil paint mixed with Liquin and graining brushed out Coat of Klear Applied transfers and another coat of Klear Apply weathering from a black oil wash. Model has received a base coat of Filler Primer and a Vallejo Bright Orange/Orange Brown mix: Graining materials ready: On completion: 7 2 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
toplink@()1989))(( Posted May 1, 2019 Author Share Posted May 1, 2019 Sorry for the delay in updating. I have since my last post painted the panel. First with the Pumpkin acrylic base coat. Then using the colours suggested by Mike Trice.. Now to my eye it looks too dark but I left it to dry thoroughly then took a photo outdoors. Still a bit too dark for my taste. I like the grainy finish but I reckon I can improve on that. Any way I have decided to try again, and have made another panel. I have painted half(ish) in pale ochre and the 'tother end in a mid yellow. Next job is a trip to Range and see if they have any "Brown Ochre and/or Raw Sienna" to try. I'm also going to try and find some softer brushes. These have a stiffer bristle. Which do give a good grain effect but I would like it to be a bit more subtle. Anyhoo, I don't think I will get anything done until after the weekend as we are going to the seaside caravaning and taking our 91 year old stationary engine to a show there. Thanks for all the interest, and especially the hints, tips and suggestions. All are very welcome! Cheer's for now, Pete. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon4470 Posted May 1, 2019 Share Posted May 1, 2019 Hi Pete Glad you like the grainy texture. I think that you might need to try with less oil paint. I’ve found that I spend as much time taking paint off as I do putting it on ( especially around beading). This lets more of the base coat show through. Jon 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted May 1, 2019 Share Posted May 1, 2019 (edited) Agreed, far too much oil paint. I use Golden Taklon brushes. On the first photo the oil has been applied roughly but not brushed out fully so looks a bit patchy but might give an idea of how much to start with: As Jon said keep brushing out the oil in the direction of the grain and wipe the brush on tissues until you are happy with the result: If you start with too much applied just wipe some off with a tissue. Edited May 1, 2019 by MikeTrice 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted May 1, 2019 Share Posted May 1, 2019 Again daubed on: And brushed out: 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
toplink@()1989))(( Posted May 2, 2019 Author Share Posted May 2, 2019 18 hours ago, MikeTrice said: Again daubed on: And brushed out: The lower photo has the effect I'm looking for Mike. Is this 4mm? If so it is exceptional work!! Cheer's, Pete. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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