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Painting teak coaches. Help please.


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Another vote for the Mike Trice topic here. I was very unsure about how to reproduce teak. Following the method that Mike showed gave good results easily i.e. with my limited artistic flair!

 

Mike also had a topic about improving the Rails Dynometer Car - that included a video of some weathering. The quality of the teak finish on that model was outstanding (in my opinion)

 

Jon

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I too have used the Mike Trice method, on my scratch built Great Northern Railway (Ireland) coaches.

Its actually much easier than applying a more conventional livery.

 

Below are the basic ingredients and a finished coach.

 

Go for it!

 

Glover

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

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Some awesome results there chaps! 

On 28/03/2019 at 14:13, gobbler said:

Pete,

 

Show us what you're up to and post some pic here or on my 

 

My/our coach building thread.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

I will try and take a couple tomorrow, I have a couple of coaches underway, a Great Eastern 6 wheeler and a GC bogie coach from a very tatty drawing that I have had for over 25 years, no idea of the diagram :rolleyes:.

 

Pete.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Sorry it has taken so long to post an update chaps but as you know life often gets in the way.

Any way here are some photos of my projects. First up my GC coach sides. I had tried to paint one with a teak finish that I failed badly!

 

IMG_2112.JPG.b44215c31b2abb1c3ef306e489a5acd8.JPG

 

IMG_2113.JPG.92a370f156c159d39e48ca2586b2dc2d.JPG

 

Now my GE coach sides.

 

IMG_2114.JPG.97c956b4bff9d13f312d88bbf59c3a9f.JPG

 

So using the Mike Trice suggestion I have bought my paints.IMG_2115.JPG.f29e96e57009d8b3a684065f91d060cf.JPG

 

Not wishing to start straight on my coach sides, I decided to make up a coach'ish panel using some spare Ian Kirk coach kit parts.

IMG_2116.JPG.ad423d4a405ac442c5b839781916a513.JPG

 

And after assembling and spraying with white primer. Once that has dried, I will paint with the Pumpkin acrylic.

 

IMG_2117.JPG.6377c10de6e7d72e6d4b63055b499a22.JPG

 

More later!

 

Cheer's, Pete.  

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Doing a credible  teak finish has been a notorious modelling problem since at least the 1930s.....

 

About the only people who have ever made a total success of it were Doncaster Works , in 304mm/foot scale (faux teak on steel stock)

Edited by Ravenser
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Many years ago there used to be wood grain paint available for doing such things as garden fences.

Applied correctly it gave a reasonable grain look to non grainy wood.

Maybe someone should do that for LNER Teak?

 

If you want to see how much they varied have a look at the collection of photos, the colour ones are further down the page:

https://www.steve-banks.org/prototype-and-traffic/133-teak-coaches

Edited by melmerby
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That single panel you've done on the middle photo looks really good, the full panels look gret too.

 

What brush do you use, or did i miss that?

 

Scott

Edited by gobbler
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Probably a good time to summarise my current method.

 

  1. Base coat of Halford's Filler Primer
  2. Thin coat Vallejo Bright Orange (70.851) and Orange Brown (70981). 
  3. Vallejo Flat Brown (70.984) dry brushed over the panels to give some variation to the panels or specific panels picked out in different shades
  4. Coat of Klear to seal.
  5. Graining coat of Vandyke Brown Oil paint mixed with Liquin and graining brushed out
  6. Coat of Klear
  7. Applied transfers and another coat of Klear
  8. Apply weathering from a black oil wash.

Model has received a base coat of Filler Primer and a Vallejo Bright Orange/Orange Brown mix:

IMG_6231.JPG.5dbc607ea39471d673011dd3da6b027d.JPG

 

Graining materials ready:

IMG_6242.JPG.d17b5062efe1ea0b1ae499bfba4f7315.JPG

 

On completion:

IMG_7668.JPG.83b6aa7e5f8b59860fcaf65d7b5a7d18.JPG

 

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Sorry for the delay in updating.

I have since my last post painted the panel. First with the Pumpkin acrylic base coat.

IMG_2118.JPG.a1d3ae66d1c430540cbf28cdf622e49e.JPG

Then using the colours suggested by Mike Trice..

IMG_2122.JPG.cda200605eb1234cf197020328607bd7.JPG

Now to my eye it looks too dark but I left it to dry thoroughly then took a photo outdoors.

IMG_2125.JPG.35ccc46a7ae73f3e52754a9d8e9cc677.JPG

Still a bit too dark for my taste. I like the grainy finish but I reckon I can improve on that.

Any way I have decided to try again, and have made another panel. I have painted half(ish) in pale ochre and the 'tother end in a mid yellow.

IMG_2126.JPG.5d20c9484130a6fda0df28b5aee33ca7.JPG

IMG_2127.JPG.8ae5ebea1eea3e946582b3b91e1c1a97.JPG

 Next job is a trip to Range and see if they have any "Brown Ochre and/or Raw Sienna" to try.

I'm also going to try and find some softer brushes. These have a stiffer bristle.

IMG_2119.JPG.f1fa65650832ac4d8de48da512e10802.JPG

Which do give a good grain effect but I would like it to be a bit more subtle.

 

Anyhoo, I don't think I will get anything done until after the weekend as we are going to the seaside caravaning and taking our 91 year old stationary engine to a show there.

 

Thanks for all the interest, and especially the hints, tips and suggestions. All are very welcome!

 

Cheer's for now, Pete.  

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Hi Pete

 

Glad you like the grainy texture.

 

I think that you might need to try with less oil paint. I’ve found that I spend as much time taking paint off as I do putting it on ( especially around beading). This lets more of the base coat show through.

 

Jon

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Agreed, far too much oil paint. I use Golden Taklon brushes.

 

On the first photo the oil has been applied roughly but not brushed out fully so looks a bit patchy but might give an idea of how much to start with:

IMG_4101.JPG.0a79fd101bfac7c5b17c724f9f94c860.JPG

 

As Jon said keep brushing out the oil in the direction of the grain and wipe the brush on tissues until you are happy with the result:

IMG_4107.JPG.fbad49908f4171a45fc427b2f6c534e9.JPG

 

If you start with too much applied just wipe some off with a tissue.

Edited by MikeTrice
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