Electrofrog Point Wiring for DCC - Is this correct

[chuffinghell]

I'm a total novice when it comes to point wiring, in my youth I used insulfrog points for simplicity but now I'm much older and none the wiser I want to do things properly and use electrofrog

 

Have I understood the wiring correctly? (see 'rough' diagram below)

[RedgateModels]

Aye, that'll do

[chuffinghell]

1 minute ago, RedgateModels said:

Aye, that'll do

 

Thank you, its only taken a gap of 30 years for me to figure it out

[chuffinghell]

Am I also correct in assuming this method doesn't rely on blade contact because of the bonding wires

Edited March 29, 2019 by chuffinghell

[RedgateModels]

correct, as long as the movable part of the blade is electrically connected to the fixed part then blade contact is superfluous 

[chuffinghell]

So I don't have to worry too much when weathering the track where the blade would ordinarily require a clean contact as long as I keep the tops of the rails clean

Edited March 29, 2019 by chuffinghell

[chuffinghell]

16 minutes ago, RedgateModels said:

correct, as long as the movable part of the blade is electrically connected to the fixed part then blade contact is superfluous 

 

Thank you for your help 

[Andymsa]

Looking at the diagram some clarification is needed. All the above advice is correct but I just want to make sure when you refer to the blades of the points that each blade has its own bond to its relevant outside rail that it touches. The diagram is not clear on this point.

[Imustbemadatmyage]

Looks good to me.  

[jpendle]

Just to stick my N Gauge nose in.

 

If this is N Gauge no mods are needed.

 

Regards,

 

John P

[chuffinghell]

1 hour ago, Andymsa said:

Looking at the diagram some clarification is needed. All the above advice is correct but I just want to make sure when you refer to the blades of the points that each blade has its own bond to its relevant outside rail that it touches. The diagram is not clear on this point.

 

Yes each blade will have a bond to it’s adjacent rail

[chuffinghell]

33 minutes ago, jpendle said:

Just to stick my N Gauge nose in.

 

If this is N Gauge no mods are needed.

 

Regards,

 

John P

 

I failed to mention it’s OO gauge, I would have preferred N gauge but my eyes aren’t as good as they used to be 

[dasatcopthorne]

Surely in the original diagram the upper pair & the point on the right is incorrect.

 

It shows both blades with the same (red) polarity.

 

Dave.

[Andymsa]

6 minutes ago, dasatcopthorne said:

Surely in the original diagram the upper pair & the point on the right is incorrect.

 

It shows both blades with the same (red) polarity.

 

Dave.

 

Very eagle eyed 

[chuffinghell]

56 minutes ago, dasatcopthorne said:

Surely in the original diagram the upper pair & the point on the right is incorrect.

 

It shows both blades with the same (red) polarity.

 

Dave.

 

Well spotted, a simple ‘colouring in’ mistake, should be green

 

Have I got it right despite colouring it in wrong?

 

Edited March 29, 2019 by chuffinghell

[chuffinghell]

48 minutes ago, Andymsa said:

 

Very eagle eyed 

 

everyone makes mistakes, it’s why they put erasers on the end of pencils 

[BR60103]

Yes, it's right.

 

It's also suitable for DC wiring.

 When I do mine, I use jumper wires with alligator clips to start with as I never know which way the switches are going to work.

 

Edited March 30, 2019 by BR60103

[chuffinghell]

I’ve confused myself now because ive just looked at the underside of my large Y points and they don’t have the ‘jumpers’ to cut

[chuffinghell]

I appreciate i could cut the rails myself to create the gap but I can’t understand why the large Y points don’t have the pre-cut rails

 

I’ve tried to look into this but I can’t seem to find a difinitive answer

 

Im using code 100

[Mallard60022]

Have a look on DCC Concepts web site for some diagrams. There are also hundreds of things on the web ref. wiring and similar and a few of them are good

[chuffinghell]

12 minutes ago, Mallard60022 said:

Have a look on DCC Concepts web site for some diagrams. There are also hundreds of things on the web ref. wiring and similar and a few of them are good

 

Thank you, I admit I have looked on their site amongst others and they all appear to refer to the LH/RH points not the Y point

 

Unfortunately I’m not the sharpest tool in the box and still fail to understand why the mod is not present on the large Y point

 

to me this suggests that the mod is not required on Y points but that can’t be right

[62613]

On 29/03/2019 at 16:51, chuffinghell said:

 

everyone makes mistakes, it’s why they put erasers on the end of pencils 

You're still paid the same for rubbing out (old draughstman's saying)

 

[Harlequin]

34 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

 

Thank you, I admit I have looked on their site amongst others and they all appear to refer to the LH/RH points not the Y point

 

Unfortunately I’m not the sharpest tool in the box and still fail to understand why the mod is not present on the large Y point

 

to me this suggests that the mod is not required on Y points but that can’t be right

Can you post a photo of the underside (and maybe the topside) of your Y points?

 

[chuffinghell]

23 minutes ago, Harlequin said:

Can you post a photo of the underside (and maybe the topside) of your Y points?

 

 

 

The Y point also has that ugly spring box near the tie bar.....so that’ll be coming off unless the Y points I’ve bought are old stock?

Edited April 6, 2019 by chuffinghell

[chuffinghell]

20 minutes ago, 62613 said:

You're still paid the same for rubbing out (old draughstman's saying)

 

 

I know, I’ve been a draughtsman for 27 years although these days the rubber is on CAD...... I still use the eraser button quite a bit though