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Bisley - 1990s EM Gauge


dj_crisp
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One of the five buffer stops needed for Bisley.

 

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Primer next.... then fitting to the layout when I've done the rest of the track. Its a rather nice kit from Lanarkshire models and I've used broken sleepers and chairs from lifting one of the sidings. The instructions give tips on how to prevent shorts. I've used a bit of plastic rod and some plastic shims so there shouldn't be a short. Not sure it's totally necessary tbh!

 

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I planned more progress than I've achieved and have been trying to get the layout up and running with what track has been installed.

 

Started off by installing a cobalt on the remaining flatbottom point on the crossover which eventually worked. Then had to track a short down which turned out that the frog wasn't properly insulated... My 09 subsequently refused to run smoothly through the crossover so spent the next hour or so tracking down dead spots which needed extra wiring. Aha a bit of success as my 09 now can crawl through all the track on the layout.... until my original flat bottom point stopping fully throwing. Grrrr. Sometimes I hate modelling and wonder why i went down the EM route!

 

After reading every track book i have about tie bars I've had a go at seeing if i can fit some Ambis etches. Surprised myself in that my first attempt looks ok. I've drilled a small hole each side on the pcb for the dropper to the tou and before i fit the point I'll probably solder it on (athough I'm not sure i need to). Part of me is tempted not to bother with the tou at all but will fit this one to see if it works and it's so much easy messing about before they're fitted!

 

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(sorry for the terrible photo from my phone)

Next up is to fit a second cosmetic tie bar a few sleepers up but it all seems ok and seems a bit more robust/refined than my other efforts. Maybe this modelling malarky is so bad afterall... but I'll find out if thats the case if this works!

 

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Track laying continues;

 

1940520022_20190527(6).JPG.bf507a13e122cf9aecac956b0dd782cb.JPG

 

The two new points have been wired and each section of track have had droppers installed - I now just need to wire them up and check there are no shorts. The flat bottom crossover has loads more droppers added which have improved running qualities immensely. I've also decided to lay flat bottom track into part of the bay and the branch entering the fiddleyard meaning that pretty much all of the track from the layout as purchased will be relayed. This meant swapping out a bit of bullhead to FB from the double slip.

 

Bullhead points are so much easier to get working than Flat Bottom! I'm definitely happy with the Ambis tiebars and these will be my standard from now on. I think there should be at least two per point... which i've done for the far point but I've been lazy with this one;

 

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Proper wood workers please look away now;

 

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I've hacked a hole for a kadee uncoupler and will be experimenting with getting this working. This has now been covered with thin cork so its in for good.

 

I also have some left over plywood from a bathroom DIY project which conveniently are 4ft long and just needed chopping in half which took me a while as i only have a hand saw. It's a bit OTT for a backscene but I also intend it to also protect the rest of the layout when in storage. I had thought it might be a little shallow but when placed with an 09 for size it looks about right to me (or even a little tall). Eventually the front will be framed and I need to research lightweight framing to prevent it warping.

 

1790902007_20190527(12).jpg.705a2aa68d4412fb32eb061112572347.jpg

 

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
11 hours ago, Departmental203 said:

This is one interesting project Will, good luck with the track laying as of course, EM is harder than OO gauge!

 

Jules

 

Thanks Jules! 

 

I'm rather enjoying it tbh and taking my time over making sure everything is aligned and in gauge. I've even had a 3rd attempt on the exit of the double slip to introduce a bit of a curve.... hence the slow progress! Well its all a steep learning curve for me!!

 

I'm hoping to start moving onto board 2 soon which has less points which might be a bit quicker!

 

Cheers

Will 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

So what do you do when you have a rare Friday Night to yourself....?

 

Build a Colin Craig Adjustment Switch of course. After several hours I managed to knock this up

 

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A lovely kit which I'll make better and neater next time as I've learnt alot from this build, but still rather pleased with how this one looks.

 

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Filing the rails took the longest whereas everything else was straightforward. Rails are soldered to the etched spaces provided and for strength I soldered the rails from the underside together. I do have a difference in sleeper height between the flatbottom & copper clad/concrete sleepers which I'll sort out when laying. Probably shouldn't have used a steel and nickle silver rail mix but thats all i have so have gone for it. 

 

I understand these should be fitted between a flatbottom point and a section of welded rail, so I reckon I'll need to build four for the layout. Just need a few Fridays to myself!

 

Happy Modelling!

Will

 

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I've pondered for some time regarding modelling in EM gauge, however, having taken the plunge and becoming a member of the EM Gauge Society some time ago , the addition of ready to lay EM gauge trackwork from the society, with left and right hand EM turnouts to be added, is a timely addition, I'm intrigued with your choice of a double slip, something that the (LMS.) 1960's era demands. I will follow your progress with great interest. 

 

Regards

 

Derek

 

 

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2 hours ago, Deltheboy said:

I've pondered for some time regarding modelling in EM gauge, however, having taken the plunge and becoming a member of the EM Gauge Society some time ago , the addition of ready to lay EM gauge trackwork from the society, with left and right hand EM turnouts to be added, is a timely addition, I'm intrigued with your choice of a double slip, something that the (LMS.) 1960's era demands. I will follow your progress with great interest. 

 

Regards

 

Derek

 

 

 

Hi Derek

 

Thanks for looking in and commenting.

 

I'm very happy with EM and don't regret starting out on the EM route - best thing I've done and I hope you enjoy it too! The peco ready to lay stuff looks brilliant and if I didn't already have some built points then I'd have definitely used them. I'm hoping they do a flat bottom version which would be ace.

 

Many moons ago I used to have an OO layout which I really enjoyed but found the running qualities to be rather naff due to different wheel types, poor track holding and too tight curves on points etc etc. This time around I've decided to try and standardise buffer height, coupling height and wheel profiles. So I've gone for (where-ever possible) the RP25 profile of Branchlines and Ultrascales, and by replacing the wheels I might as well widen the gauge   I still think p4 is beyond my abilities! 

 

I've not built the double crossover and bought it at a show mostly because I thought the builder of it did an excellent job! I planned on using it in a different layout and I'm sure it's not correct here, or the position of it. I just fancied being able to pose locos on the short siding leading off it and didn’t have space otherwise. Really I also think that siding shouldn't exist and a straightforward RH flat bottom point for entering the bay should be there instead. Saying all that I’m pleased I included it!

 

I think the EM gauge society have plans for a double crossover although I may have made that up. (Certainly more likely before any talk of flat bottom track!)

 

All in all based on my EM experience I'd say go for it and I hope you enjoy!

 

cheers 

Will

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  • 2 weeks later...

I''m slowly getting there with one of the main lines being finished on board one!

 

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The sharp eyed reader may have noticed that I've realigned the exit from the double slip for a third and final time...  now they have a gentle curve and are flat bottom which works better for the second board. I have to admit I'm not happy with the sidings point though... It doesn't seem right and looks a little close to the  slip but before i do anything crazy like having another go I'm going to finish off more of board two to check how it looks.

Also I've had serious gauge issues with the flat bottom point to the top of the picture. The needle file has come out again and I’ve attempted to widen gauge around the blade. It's currently very smooth so hopefuly this doesn't fail, but if it the gauge tightens then I'm going to have to replace some of the sleepers and solder key points of the point to maintain gauge. That won't be fun

 

A pair of MK1 coaches pretending to be a DMU!

 

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I took a few photos to see how a DMU will look like exiting the bay with a little snaking before it leaves the board

 

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I'm pleased with how it looks and flows.... and while I was mocking up the back scene I couldn't resist seeing what a 50 looks like on the main...

 

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And then an up bank photo. (Yep only just noticed it’s derailed…. Doh)

 

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I’m now planning on siting the signal box to the left of the 50 at the end of the fertiliser siding as that’s probably a sensible spot.

 

And finally… buffer stops primed. 
 

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Thats pretty much whats been keeping me busy the last month!

 

cheers

Will

 

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Thanks Jack :)

 

I think the original builder was after that kind of viewpoint as it would have been the end of a runround, (rather than a bit of main line). I'm hoping that with a bridge in the background it'll look ok still.  That's probably as creative as I think I can be!

 

 

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On a slightly different topic....

 

I'm not sure if anyone has used steel rail but I found the smallest amount of moisture caused the concrete sleeper track to rust. I stuck it down with my normal PVA last night and woke up to find a fine rust had appeared on the side and top of the rail. Quite alarming tbh and I'm sorely tempted to use nickel silver for the rest of the layout to match everything else that's been laid. 

 

I'm not sure if this is normal and anything to really worry about?

 

Cheers 

Will 

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Hi Will,

 

To be honest I would avoid steel rail for this very reason. It will also rust if the layout is to be stored in a location where temperature might vary.

 

I'd stick with Nickel Silver, no rust at all.

 

That's my two pence worth.

 It's looking good!

 

Cheers,

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Thanks Wayne

 

I think you're right. I've stored the rail in the same location as the layout and have had no issues. As soon as I start using it... then rust! Cleans up ok though. 

 

Cheers

Will 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I must be the slowest person to lay straight-ish track.... I've spent the last month or so on board two trying to do something easy. I always like to take a few photos to spot errors and things that can be improved and there are plenty of opportunities in these!!

 

Thing is i don't find anything easy and found aligning track a little tricky tbh.

 

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This will hopefully be the middle board of the scenic section with a shorter board having a station building with the siding ends. The track leaving the top of the board is dead straight so if I ever get a bit more space I could (in theory) extend the sidings and station. The middle siding is the bay so for a bit of fun it's a combination of flat bottom and bullhead track. I've done track section panels which is probably overkill (and as I'm lazy not quite their proper length but rather suits the length of rail i had in stock as I just halved them ;) )

 

If I'm being honest I'm not entirely happy with the sidings and how it flows as I messed up the siting on the sidings point on board one. Life is too short to redo that over! The long perspective and different coloured sleepers makes it look a little rough but I'm sure when painted it'll look a bit better. My long wheelbase wagons seem to stay on so it might just work!

 

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I do plan on playing trains and I think the longest traverser I can get away with in the space I have is for a 50 and four coaches.... so tried a few test shots ;

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The siding to the right of this is the fertiliser depot. As it's at the front of the layout i was thinking of keeping things low level but I'm getting tempted to build a larger building so that you have to look around it. When the layout has progressed a bit more I'll do some cardboard mock ups.

 

 

and from the back of the layout with a DMU in the bay;

 

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Thats all for now. I'm moving onto building/fixing a few points which will keep me very quiet for a while!

 

Please do comment and especially if you see something that looks rubbish/off and can be improved! 

 

Happy Modelling All

 

Will

 

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One of the flatbottom points is causing me a few challenges. It was slightly out of gauge which i think was die to it being all plastic sleeper construction and as it was a little out of position so I lifted it. My attempt at keeping it all in gauge and adding a bit of strength;

 

 

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I've decided to solder a couple of copper clad sleepers in the key places. The one on the left has been filed down in the middle to allow the point to switch easily. I've also tried out a different version of the AMBIS tie bars which went together better than expected. Fitting to has also helped keeping everything in gauge.... much like the real thing i guess;

 

 

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So far so good and a big improvement on before. I've done loads of filing of the rails and it all seems to work rather freely which is rather good especially as i can't imagine anything I've done is to be recommended by proper track builders!!!

 

The extra long length of one of the tie bars is a give away that I've sighted the point right above a baseboard support. I'm really annoyed that i messed that up! Hopefully I can come up with a way of offsetting the point motor so it all works ok... we shall see.

 

cheers 

Will

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been progressing with board two and trackwork is pretty much laid now. It's been wired in with the exception of installing point motors which'll probably be the next job. Plenty of detail work to do and loads of fishplates to add. Looking at this view there is probably too much track and not enough space for scenery but it'll be more fun to operate - I just hope I can come up with a convincing backdrop;

 

 

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I've put alot of effort into re-building the flat bottom point below but I'm really pleased with the end results;

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I've strengthen the extra bit of the tie bar by soldering a LED leg to it and soldered bit of brass tube to locate the point motor wire. It's practical but not elegant and hopefully I can disguise it better when I do a bit of scenery/ballasting/track detailing later, New check rails have been added and I've soldered these as well as the frog for a bit of strength. 

 

I've built a second adjustment switch and this one looks much better than the first;

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The original Bisley had a point built across baseboard joins which unfortuately had suffered damage.... it's now been rebuilt as a catch point with AMBIS point stretcher bars with droppers to attach to the TOU;

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The section of concrete track has had an attempt at elevation using my scientific (bodge it) approach of sanding down cork.

 

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I now need to trim the cork a little and hopefully I can build a platform edge that's a bit better than my pencil drawing in the photo....

 

Sadly there will no modelling for me for quite a while and if I get any chance it's probably going to all focussed on point motors tbh

 

thanks for reading

cheers 

Will

 

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Stunning work will this trackwork really is a work of art! Like Jack I'm seriously considering a move to the finer scales, and having built points in the past I think it's well worth the effort.

 

The tiebars look stunning, are they a kit or home made? If they're home made I'd be very interested in knowing how you've made them!

 

Keep up the good work!

 

Will

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Hi Will

 

Many thanks for your kind words!

 

They're all AMBIS etches soldered to thin copper clad. I've got two types on the layout... although I'm not sure what version they are tbh! I need to build some more so if you're interested I'll post a few pictures hopefully in a week or so.

 

It took a few attempts to get the folding looking OK. Soldered up they've made up into a pretty strong and flexible unit. On the tiebars attached to the TOU I've drilled some holes and soldered the droppers to them. I'm fitting two to each point which has really helped keep the flat bottom point's in gauge.

 

Hope that helps!

Cheers

Will

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I just sent an email and I remember getting a very quick response.

 

There are two types. The ones I've used on the bullhead track is shown with pictures of how to fold up on this link

http://www.ambisengineering.co.uk/Products/Products_Index.htm

 

There's also a slightly different version that I've used on my flat bottom track which I've found much easier to build. The etch has lots of other bits on it too for I think FB construction but I'm not sure. TBH my trackwork is mostly quest work from photos. 

 

Hope that helps and will do a few photos when I next get chance.

 

Cheers

Will

 

 

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  • 3 months later...

It's been a while since i posted anything on here.... 47s have been taking up what little modelling time I have and the cold garage hasn't inspired me to work on the layout. Anyway I went slightly mad and lifted the sidings point to hopefully improve alignment... then rebuilt it as i pretty much destroyed it as my gluing was pretty good!

 

There really should be a trap point between the sidings and the branch line but the space is a bit tight. Using a lot of modellers license (as there really isn't enough space) I've taken inspiration from Liskeard and built a single trap from scrap rail and left over chairs;

 

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I'm quite pleased with the result, and next task is to make it working which should be pretty straightforward.

 

My prototype inspiration is just to the left of the Rat in this photo taken from flickr;

Class 25 at Liskeard

 

Admittedly I'm not sure if this style of trap point is strictly correct for my time period and tbh I've just made up the position of the chairs but i think it will look ok.  I've also decided the siding off the double crossover will need one so this will keep me busy over the festive period... Although I'm tempted to have a go at the point in the photo infront of the Rat as this seems to be a good a trap point space saver! It looks a bit too complex for me so I'll probably go for the single as it's a bit more straightforward!!

 

Merry Xmas all!

 

Will

 

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Hi dj,

I thought you said somewhere that your blade gaps were a little on the P4 side (can't find it now, might have been on another topic!).  They do look tight for EM, I thought mine were tight at 1mm.  I think Martin Wynn recommends a 20p coin for the gap which is about 1.8mm.   Still if all your stock runs through it, it must be OK; I do find some troublesome stock on some of my points.

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