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The Layer Cake


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After several failed attempts to get anywhere I came to the conclusion that I needed a test track to run stuff in and also to get my skills back up to scratch after 30-odd years away from the hobby. That led to a couple of botched attempts with Peco trackwork and the sudden revelation that the plug-and-play Kato stuff would do what I wanted (a line through some scenery) and could probably be bodged into looking relatively realistic (famous last words).

 

This is very much Rule#1 and intended to let me a, play and b, practice before I get disillusioned again. That means that there may be some glaring clashes between eras and areas.

 

BTW - I've put the 2mm tag on here because although the trackwork is Kato for ease of running all the actual bits are drawn up at 2mm-1foot - If anyone has a problem with that I'll happily drop it.

 

Anyway, the trackplan so far is about as basic as it could be and I've started by building a retaining wall and a couple of tunnel mouths in an attempt to hide that fact - at least when viewed from the side!

 

At some point there may well be another lower (bigger) oval below this one to try longer stock on before I move on.

 

In the meantime there's a lot of wall to weather before I start playing with vegetation and an attempt to blend the trackwork in.

 

Any thoughts, comments or criticism - preferably of the constructive kind - gratefully received....

 

Gyp

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If you have been away from the hobby a while, and a bit rusty on your building, wiring and landscaping techniques (not to mention DCC, controllers etc) - then starting with something small and simple is a good way forward. Building a small layout or project can teach you a lot, and doesn't cost you as much money or time & effort - so if you're not happy with it, or think you can improve it... then you haven't lost too much.

I've built several exhibition layouts over the years. Mostly small layouts & micros. All of these were shunting layouts, and there were times when I wished I had built a small roundy-roundy layout, for simplicity of operation, and so I could relax at shows, and even walk away and let the trains just go round and round. Hope you enjoy building this layout. A bit of advice from me - stay focused, keep this layout small and don't be tempted to add any more to it for the time being, then move on to something a bit more ambitious..... But in the meantime, this will teach you a lot - even if you start thinking, "I wish I had done this, or that....." It means you will improve next time. I the only way to advance your skills is to bite the bullet and build something, but something you can finish.

And last but not least - you'll have an excellent test track for testing out and running in new locos in future :)

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1 hour ago, marc smith said:

And last but not least - you'll have an excellent test track for testing out and running in new locos in future :)

 

Thanks Marc, that is a large part of the plan - such as it is!

 

Anyway, a bit of light weathering. Having looked at a lot of such structures as I've passed them over the past couple of months I'm tempted to go a fair bit further with the grime....

 

 

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14 hours ago, Gypsy said:

......Having looked at a lot of such structures as I've passed them over the past couple of months I'm tempted to go a fair bit further with the grime....

 

Yes, a bit of smoke / clag residue above the portals is definitely required, as a starter.
You'll be surprised by how much some moss and greenery on the walls will break up the evenness of the area too, and add a bit of texture, colour and tone.

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4 hours ago, Gypsy said:

What's the best way of doing the smoke/soot? I was thinking of trying chalk/pastel...

 Many people will have different preferences, so it's hard to say what the "best" way is.
Some would use an airbrush, but I would be tempted to use some matt acrylic black paint, or perhaps matt varnish and black (With perhaps a little amount of grimy dark brown) weathering powders.
Take care not to overdo it though - if overdone it can look awful. Take a look at some photos of bridges & tunnel mouths

EDIT: and don't use gloss paint (sorry for stating the obvious)

Edited by marc smith
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LIke you I returned to the hobby after a 30+ year gap and have still yet to start on an operational layout, although I do have a layout plan. Before I take that leap, I introduced myself back into the hobby by having a go at the Cake Box Challenges. To me they were the perfect way to get back into railway modelling by providing me the opportunity to  experiment with new materials and techniques on a small scale, like static grass for example using a Noch puffer bottle. 

 

The weathering you have already introduced onto the retaining walls already looks good so you are already developing techniques which work for you. For the smoke you could try the range of weathering powders widely available, Humbrol already do 'Smoke 16421' within their range, there a bit pricey at around the £4.00 mark but shop around. Apply the powder dry with a brush practicing on an off cut of the retaining wall to perfect your technique. Work the powder in and move it around with the brush until you achieve the effect your after and work from photos of real examples. I find that if you work from photos it inspires more confidence when working with the various materials, although I am guilty of also working from my imagination.

 

You can use a cheap hairspray to act a a type of transparent glue to get the powders to stay in place, also useful for getting various scatters etc to stay in place, when modelling trees, hedges etc.

Hope this has been of some use.

 

All the best

Mark

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by MAP66
correcting a few typos.
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On ‎04‎/‎04‎/‎2019 at 09:17, Gypsy said:

Sydney Gardens - as in Bath?

 

What's the best way of doing the smoke/soot? I was thinking of trying chalk/pastel...

 

I've had a lot of success using eyeshadow, which is basically the same stuff as weathering powder. If you shop online, you can find some cheap palettes for around the £2-£3 mark that will give you several shades (make sure you go for matte, though - sparkly soot is not a good look). This stuff tends to be fairly self-adhesive.

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