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Beginners Airbrush setup


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Having solved the filtering/venting problem of airbrushing in my tiny flat (see Airbrushing indoors thread). I now need to work out what I need to get started with air brushing. 

 

I'm guessing I need a compressor, and an airbrush unit. What are current recommendations for good value for money units? I'm happy to pay for quality, but don't want to be wasting money (I subscribe to the Sam Vimes theory of Economics). 

 

What else do i need? What are the small parts you don't realise you need when you're buying the airbrush and compressor in the shop?

 

Thanks


J

Edited by Julia
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The compressor needs to be able to provide the requisite pressure for the airbrush chosen. It should have:

 

  • Adjustable pressure valve because different paints will need different pressures.
  • Pressure Gauge so that you can see what the working pressure is.
  • Automatic off function, that stops the motor running when the airbrush is not in use.
  • Quiet operation if you're using it in a small flat.
  • Moisture trap to prevent water getting to you airbrush.

 

The airbrush needs to provide a steady stream of air that will cover your target area (model)  evenly and consistently without having to make too many passes. It should have components that are well engineered from hard-wearing materials, and seals that are not affected by solvents. This eliminates many Chinese-made copies of Badger and Iwata such as those which accompany  compressor 'deals'. For general purpose airbrushing, like respraying and weathering, you should aim for a dual-action top- or side-feed airbrush from a source that stocks spares and can provide servicing facilities if you don't have the confidence or experience to do your own.

 

What does all this mean in terms of brands and names?

 

Compressors from Sparmax and Iwata will not fail you. Cheap versions from Hseng like the AS18-2 and AS186 will do the job, BUT they are not totally reliable.

Airbrushes from Badger, Harder & Steenbeck, Sparmax and Iwata will certainly do what is required, but I'd advise you to find a shop that allows you to try them out before committing to any purchase(s).

 

You will also 'need' a turntable, cleaning/sprayout pot, good lighting, solvent-proof dishes and (ideally) a battery-powered paint mixer. That's all! :)

 

I'm quite happy to answer specific questions via PM.

 

You will probably receive many more opinions, views and information. This is an open forum, after all.

Edited by Mick Bonwick
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Would echo the point about 'try before you buy' as different makes of brushes feel different. My Iwata feels heavier in the hand as opposed to my H&S.

 

Also watch for needle size. Something around 0.3 or 0.35 should be wide enough to cope acrylic particle size but still give you plenty of control and ability to get fine lines

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On 02/04/2019 at 18:31, Siberian Snooper said:

A decent face mask, especially if you plan on doing a lot of spraying. I would get one where you can replace the filters.

 

 

A decent face mask even if you're not doing a lot of spraying. 

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I have two airbrushes; a Badger 150 and an Iwata Neo TR2. The Iwata is the more recent purchase, but I find I have gone back to the Badger. One reason for that is because the Badger is a bottom feed you can mix the paint in the cup while it is off the brush, with the side feed Iwata this isn't possible. I also find the Badger handles better, though that is a purely personal preference.

I can't really recommend a compressor as mine is an ancient type that runs continuously, but I would agree about fitting a reducing valve and moisture filter, note that the latter should be fitted at the airbrush end of the hose as the air will have then cooled to a point where the moisture will separate out. Particularly if spraying enamels a proper mask is highly desirable though some acrylics use quite noxious thinners so a mask should be worn with them as well.

Other consumables, for enamels thinning with white spirit from B&Q etc is as good as any, though acrylics are more particular and often seem to need their own manufacturer's  thinners. For cleaning the brush after any type of paint I use cellulose thinners. For this find a car paint supplier and buy standard thinners, it's much cheaper! (Last time I bought cellulose thinners from Halfords it was £7.50 for 500mls, from a car paint shop it was £10 for 5 litres!)

 

Edited by JeremyC
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21 hours ago, JeremyC said:

Acrylics are more particular and often seem to need their own manufacturer's  thinners. 

 

There are some videos on YouTube showing how to make your own thinners for Acrylic paint. Much cheaper than buying the manufacturers own.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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On 02/04/2019 at 12:55, Julia said:

(I subscribe to the Sam Vimes theory of Economics). 

 

 

I have been wondering whether any other Terry Pratchett fans would comment on this, but it seems not. Maybe not many of them are railway modellers . . . . . . .  :D . . . . . . .  or even RMweb members.

 

Have you made any progress with your airbrushing plans, Julia?

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1 hour ago, Mick Bonwick said:

 

I have been wondering whether any other Terry Pratchett fans would comment on this, but it seems not. Maybe not many of them are railway modellers . . . . . . .  :D . . . . . . .  or even RMweb members.

 

Have you made any progress with your airbrushing plans, Julia?

 

Am having to wait for payday before I can go forward. Hoping to start getting together the bits I need in May. 

 

J

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I used to use a fairly small standard garage compressor.

I had to fit my own oil/water separator but it was still relatively cheap compared to the usual brands of airbrush compressor mentioned earlier.

Smooth, powerful, reliable, clean air delivery so it ticked all the right boxes except one: it was very noisy... So noisy that I would not use it at home in the evening.

For this reason, I would also recommend something marketed as an airbrush compressor.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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I have a Sparmax 4 airbrush (mid-range cost - easy to use), with quick release hose connector (Eileens Emporium), AS-186 air compressor with long braided hose, airbrush cleaning jar, acrylic airbrush cleaner and I use spray cans called "liquid reamer" for enamels.  Rotating platforms are from Tamiya, with holding clamps from Squires. I also have a twin brush holder which clamps on to the edge of my table.

 

I use plastic shot glasses from Wilko's to mix the paints (£1 for 20), a Badger battery operated paint stirrer, Tamiya masking tapes, Humbrol masking fluid, lots of cotton buds and a brush/needle nozzle cleaning set i picked up from Ebay. A large roll of blue industrial paper towels helps as well as they shed less fibres than standard tissue paper. 

 

I use Phoenix quick drying thinners for enamels and the recommended thinners for the acrylics (Tamiya/Vallejo/Ammo etc). 

 

Must haves were covered before - disposable gloves/mask/booth etc.

 

I do a small amount of airbrush work, mostly enamels and have painted loco's, wagons, track etc and used it for weathering with reasonable results. The Sparmax has a .4mm needle so really fine lines arent possible, but good enough for general use. I have started to use acrylics more and more but taking a while to get used to. 

 

After watching Mr Tony Wright's DVD on painting, I purchased a cheap hair dryer as well - really speeds up the process between coats! 

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  • 7 months later...
On 16/04/2019 at 10:24, Mick Bonwick said:

 

I have been wondering whether any other Terry Pratchett fans would comment on this, but it seems not. Maybe not many of them are railway modellers . . . . . . .  :D . . . . . . .  or even RMweb members.

 

Have you made any progress with your airbrushing plans, Julia?

 

I can't remember Sam's theory on economics ... have to read the books again - but which one?

Do remember Sgt Colon's "million to one chance that comes off nine times out of ten"

 

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18 minutes ago, davidmcc3 said:

 

I can't remember Sam's theory on economics ... have to read the books again - but which one?

Do remember Sgt Colon's "million to one chance that comes off nine times out of ten"

 

 

Men at Arms. But you need to start at Colour of Magic and work your way through!

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