Michael Delamar Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 Not sure if this has been pointed out in any of the other threads, I’ve had a search and couldn’t find anything. Ive recently purchased quite a lot of these as they are available to buy as spares. For fitting to my own wagons. They are very nice and seem very strong. My only gripe is that the winding bar is up in the air when the coupling is attached to another wagon. In reality it would drop down in this position. You may sometimes see them left to one side but as an ex shunter myself that isn’t the best practice. Could they not be fitted the other way so the bar is in the dropped down position when coupled up? 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stanley Melrose Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 Besides the anti-gravity problem, unfortunately they're not the more common version with a round top link, rather than two straps bolted through the hook. I'm not sure how many, if any, of the type available from Accurascale were fitted to rolling stock in the period you are modelling, Mike. Happy to find that they were extremely common back then but as far as I'm aware they were not. I understand that if Accurascale produce something with rounded top link screw couplings, they will be available as spares at that point. Stan 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 Doesn't the central bit (in reality, the threaded bit) rotate? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KDG Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 15 minutes ago, Fat Controller said: Doesn't the central bit (in reality, the threaded bit) rotate? Yes thats how the coupling is tightened Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 2 minutes ago, KDG said: Yes thats how the coupling is tightened I was wondering if it rotated on the model? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KDG Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 Oh sorry Brian, crossed wires, no I don't think they do. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 1 hour ago, Michael Delamar said: Could they not be fitted the other way so the bar is in the dropped down position when coupled up? Looks like a (mis)assembly error to me. Regards, John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted April 10, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 10, 2019 The answer is in the Cemflo thread, (somewhere), ISTR they are cosmetic couplings and that's how yer balls hang when not in use. Mike. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 59 minutes ago, Enterprisingwestern said: The answer is in the Cemflo thread, (somewhere), ISTR they are cosmetic couplings and that's how yer balls hang when not in use. Mike. It is indeed - and it would not be difficult to re-hang the coupling, using a small pin in place of the melted-over lugs. Regards, John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted April 10, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 10, 2019 6 minutes ago, cctransuk said: It is indeed - and it would not be difficult to re-hang the coupling, using a small pin in place of the melted-over lugs. Regards, John Isherwood. As per young Porcy's solution. Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted April 10, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 10, 2019 4 minutes ago, Enterprisingwestern said: As per young Porcy's solution. Here 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steadfast Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 3 hours ago, Stanley Melrose said: Besides the anti-gravity problem, unfortunately they're not the more common version with a round top link, rather than two straps bolted through the hook. I'm not sure how many, if any, of the type available from Accurascale were fitted to rolling stock in the period you are modelling, Mike. Happy to find that they were extremely common back then but as far as I'm aware they were not. I understand that if Accurascale produce something with rounded top link screw couplings, they will be available as spares at that point. Stan The type modelled is called a continental screw coupling. The other type is a standard BR coupling. Without checking individual prototypes it's difficult to know what had what. Jo 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jub45565 Posted April 11, 2019 Share Posted April 11, 2019 13 hours ago, Nile said: Here Excellent, thanks for the link. I picked up a pack at Ally Pally to assess/play with, and while they do look good - and at a good price - there are two things which went against them (for me). Firstly, the anti-gravity bob weight as discussed here, and secondly the coupling hook. This is more my intended use than bad design/assembly - as in plastic headstocks I'm sure they are fine, but to use with etched headstocks there isn't much meat to them, and I expect with any glue they could have a tendency to be pulled out. Therefore swapping out the hook for an etched option at the same time as turning the links around makes sense, and could still be worth doing for the cost/time against fully etched options. As for Stan's comment I agree round linked ones were far more common, but I'm sure I have seen steam era photos with these - not sure when they first came in though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted April 11, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 11, 2019 3 minutes ago, Jub45565 said: This is more my intended use than bad design/assembly - as in plastic headstocks I'm sure they are fine, but to use with etched headstocks there isn't much meat to them, and I expect with any glue they could have a tendency to be pulled out. If you cross drill the coupling shank behind the buffer beam and pin it with a piece of 0.5mm wire, that will ensure security. It's what I do with my LMS coupling hooks behind any buffer beam, best not to rely on glue alone. Mike. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Accurascale Fran Posted April 11, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 11, 2019 Hi everyone, Thanks for the feedback on these, in fairness to China they did a very nice job on them. They are purely intended to be cosmetic items for detailing etc., but if you can make them work for you then happy days too! This pattern was made as it what was on the cemflos, so we asked China to make additional and add them to detail packs, same with the instanters in the PCAs, like our buffer heads etc. Cheers! Fran 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted April 12, 2019 Author Share Posted April 12, 2019 Thanks all. i wasn’t too concerned that they may not be the correct period style, after all they look better than using things like Smiths 3 links on vans that would have had screw links. They seem robust enough to be used in rakes. My hope was a quick easy fix to the wagon as I have a large fiddle yard to fill with vans and wagons and didn’t want to be fiddling making up individual links. But the lace pin method looks a good idea. cheers. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BR37414 Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 I just ordered a bunch to try out, could some one direct me to a source of lace pins? All I've managed to find here in Canada are 64mm long and are just thin pins. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 On 10/04/2019 at 18:51, Enterprisingwestern said: young Porcy's You're too kind. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 3 hours ago, BR37414 said: could some one direct me to a source of lace pins? Having just replied the your PM: thought it might be some use here. "I can't be 100% certain where I got them from as I've had them for years. I used to buy them from masokits when he supplied them with his corridor connection kits then he found them difficult to get hold of. After that I bought a lifetimes supply. I think they came from Squires but as I said, I can' be 100% certain. Part no 4316-10 on page T7 of this catalogue. http://www.squirestools.com/files/Mini Cat Hand Tools May 19.pdf Doing a search on ebay for "lace making pins" turns up loads of various sizes in both brass and stainless." HTH P 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 18 hours ago, BR37414 said: I just ordered a bunch to try out, could some one direct me to a source of lace pins? All I've managed to find here in Canada are 64mm long and are just thin pins. Thanks Any of the big box craft stores will have them. Here in the mid atlantic US, AC Moores, Michaels, etc. Look in the seweing dept. Also any dress making store. I got a range of sizes, primarily for using as pins in valve gear and mine were nickel plated, so for my application, this was a bonus, as they solder easily. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BR37414 Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 2 hours ago, PhilMortimer said: Any of the big box craft stores will have them. Here in the mid atlantic US, AC Moores, Michaels, etc. Look in the seweing dept. Also any dress making store. I got a range of sizes, primarily for using as pins in valve gear and mine were nickel plated, so for my application, this was a bonus, as they solder easily. Thanks Phil, I have a Michaels right near me so I will check that out. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theakerr Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 Depending on what you want to use them for beware of Michaels et al. They are brass coated with steel and are almost impossible to solder. How many do you want? I have a few and I think I can lay my hands on some more that just came out of an estate here in Canada. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMortimer Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 Some are, some are nickel coated. Easy way to check - take a magnet! JoAnne's fabrics are also a good source. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BR37414 Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 On 21/11/2019 at 14:42, Theakerr said: Depending on what you want to use them for beware of Michaels et al. They are brass coated with steel and are almost impossible to solder. How many do you want? I have a few and I think I can lay my hands on some more that just came out of an estate here in Canada. I'm not sure entirely.I ordered enough to equip 12 of my 37s with these couplings a both ends. So at least 24, say 30 to account for mistakes being made. The ones I found are the steel coated brass ones. Glad I didn't purchase those! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted November 27, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 27, 2019 Just a thought, but why are people using pins instead of plain brass wire/rod to assemble coupling links? Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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