Slitting Disk

[TexChem]

I have reached the point in track laying where I need to cut the track across baseboard joints - secured to copper clad.  I have a Dremel and have used the standard disk which is supplied by Dremel.  While it works well, the gap left behind is larger than I would like.  Accordingly, I am looking for suggestions on where to source thinner disks or alternative methods to cut the rail. 

 

Appreciate your collective wisdom.

 

Tex

 

Edited April 17, 2019 by TexChem
Fixed typo

[dhjgreen]

I use these, you will need the speedclic adaptor too.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dremel-2615S456JC-SpeedClic-Metal-Cutting/dp/B001DHAT00/ref=asc_df_B001DHAT00/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=232020729251&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10266797749820432166&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046658&hvtargid=pla-420702613119&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

 

[RexAshton]

A good quality razor saw will leave a nice fine gap and is less likely to damage the track ends.

[Dunsignalling]

20 minutes ago, TexChem said:

I have reached the point in track laying where I need to cut the track across baseboard joints - secured to copper clad.  I have a Dremel and have used the standard disk which is supplied by Dremel.  While it works well, the gap left behind is larger than I would like.  Accordingly, I am looking for suggestions on where to source thinner disks or alternative methods to cut the rail. 

 

Appreciate your collective wisdom.

 

Tex

 

There is a trick to that, but it sounds like you have probably gone beyond the point at which you can do it.

 

Before laying the track across the board joint, insert a couple of penny washers between the two boards. Lay the track, cut the rails, separate the boards and remove the washers,

 

When you re-join the boards, voila, smaller gaps between the rail-ends.  

 

John

Edited April 17, 2019 by Dunsignalling

[Harlequin]

23 hours ago, TexChem said:

I have reached the point in track laying where I need to cut the track across baseboard joints - secured to copper clad.  I have a Dremel and have used the standard disk which is supplied by Dremel.  While it works well, the gap left behind is larger than I would like.  Accordingly, I am looking for suggestions on where to source thinner disks or alternative methods to cut the rail. 

 

Appreciate your collective wisdom.

 

Tex

 

I've been through exactly the same thing. Dremel do various thicknessess of disc so it's possible that their thinnest version might be acceptable to you. I sourced some 0.75mm 38mm dia discs from B&Q (after I had already cut my rails with a thicker disc...)

 

Then at a show last year I found some 0.5mm thick diamond-coated cutting discs. Sorry, but I can't remember who was running the stand and a few quick Google searches don't return any products quite the same. The advice that came with them was to "go slowly". I haven't tried them yet.

 

P.S. Watch out for the shards of metal kicked towards your face when using one of these discs because they can get into your eyes. I found that out the hard way (even though I wear glasses).

 

Edited April 18, 2019 by Harlequin

[Hroth]

I would prefer to use a razor saw to cut the rail.

 

A slitting disk (the thinner the better) will do the job but as well as making a fairly wide cut, which is not only due to the thickness of the disk but also a result of vibration due to bearing slop in the drill, the cut will be at a more or less appreciable angle due to the thickness of the drill body.

 

A razor saw will allow you to make a thin cut that is at right-angles to the rails.

 

Whichever you use, go slowly and wear eye protection as mentioned above.

[spikey]

18 minutes ago, Hroth said:

... a result of vibration due to bearing slop in the drill, the cut will be at a more or less appreciable angle due to the thickness of the drill body.

 

IMO if your drill's got bearing slop, it's time to get yourself a new one.  Be that as it may, a more vertical cut may be obtained by the use of the Dremel flexy drive. 

[TexChem]

On 17/04/2019 at 12:01, Dunsignalling said:

There is a trick to that, but it sounds like you have probably gone beyond the point at which you can do it.

 

Before laying the track across the board joint, insert a couple of penny washers between the two boards. Lay the track, cut the rails, separate the boards and remove the washers,

 

When you re-join the boards, voila, smaller gaps between the rail-ends.  

 

John

Great idea - but unfortunately, too late.  Will keep in mind for the next time.

[TexChem]

7 hours ago, Harlequin said:

I've been through exactly the same thing. Dremel do various thicknessess of disc so it's possible that their thinnest version might be acceptable to you. I sourced some 0.75mm 38mm dia discs from B&Q (after I had already cut my rails with a thicker disc...)

 

Then at a show last year I found some 0.5mm thick diamond-coated cutting discs. Sorry, but I can't remember who was running the stand and a few quick Google searches don't return any products quite the same. The advice that came with them was to "go slowly". I haven't tried them yet.

 

P.S. Watch out for the shards of metal kicked towards your face when using one of these discs because they can get into your eyes. I found that out the hard way (even though I wear glasses).

 

Thanks for the tip - I am a chemist, so I use eye protection by second nature/

[TexChem]

7 hours ago, Hroth said:

I would prefer to use a razor saw to cut the rail.

 

A slitting disk (the thinner the better) will do the job but as well as making a fairly wide cut, which is not only due to the thickness of the disk but also a result of vibration due to bearing slop in the drill, the cut will be at a more or less appreciable angle due to the thickness of the drill body.

 

A razor saw will allow you to make a thin cut that is at right-angles to the rails.

 

Whichever you use, go slowly and wear eye protection as mentioned above.

Do you use a guide to maintain the angle of the cut?

[Sam Moss]

On 18/04/2019 at 16:42, Harlequin said:

I've been through exactly the same thing. Dremel do various thicknessess of disc so it's possible that their thinnest version might be acceptable to you. I sourced some 0.75mm 38mm dia discs from B&Q (after I had already cut my rails with a thicker disc...)

 

Then at a show last year I found some 0.5mm thick diamond-coated cutting discs. Sorry, but I can't remember who was running the stand and a few quick Google searches don't return any products quite the same. The advice that came with them was to "go slowly". I haven't tried them yet.

 

P.S. Watch out for the shards of metal kicked towards your face when using one of these discs because they can get into your eyes. I found that out the hard way (even though I wear glasses).

 

'BOYES - for value' do the diamond cutting discs in their modelling/craft corner.

[Sir TophamHatt]

This helped me too - good post!

[5050]

I use a fine X-acto razor saw for baseboard joints and for insulating gaps in points etc.  I start with a fine knife edged needle file and make a shallow 'notch' in the rail so that the saw doesn't slip (well, not to much anyway!).  The rail ends need a bit of fettling with a small file to remove burrs etc. if you can.

[JeffP]

Razor saws must have come on a ways since I tried this...my Exacto lasted ONE cut of PECO "N" gauge rail, back in 1978, before being completely blunt. I just assumed it was the wrong tool to use...

[Roy Langridge]

I use a Dremel, a 32mm x 0.5mm slitting disk and one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dremel-2615057532-Right-Angle-Attachment/dp/B0002SMNW8/ref=asc_df_B0002SMNW8/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=226152056294&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12457281461845357823&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007237&hvtargid=pla-421602825803&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

 

Never mangled the end of the track and get a very good cut - better than I ever achieved with a razor saw.

 

Roy

[96701]

Where multiple tracks cross a baseboard joint, I couldn't get a razor saw in without trying to cut loads of rails at once, so a Dremel with a flexi-drive was the only tool that would get in there. I soldered the rails to glued down pcb strips before cutting them. Seems okay so far, but I had to be careful to cut the rails square in both vertical and horizontal planes. Not easy with a Dremel under my arm and holding the slitting disc to try to make sure that it didn't snag.