DINGHAM auto couplings

[Barnaby]

Hello -- I have been doing some thinking about which auto coupling to use I've tried various styles from modified tension lock, lincs and latterly Sprat & Winkle all have tasty things about them.

I've been searching for any comments re my latest thinking on the Dingham auto coupling.

* They seem easy to install in that you push them through the existing sole plate hook slot so no damage done.

* They are a little fiddly to make up but not enough to put me off.

* Some criticism of their stability / reliability but I think using a jig should make for reliable repeatability.

* They have a HOOK & LATCH on one end and a HOOK & LOOP on the other which means the wagons have to be placed with the same ends all facing the same way.

I won't find this a problem for my shunty plank layout.

* Best advice is to use an Electro-magnet but you can use bar magnets in some places.

From all the above I am leaning quite strongly in Dinghams favour and have placed an order for some to try.

 

If anyone has any further advice on their assembly or use please let me know.

 

Best

[davknigh]

I highly recommend them. I've used them for at least 15 years and have seen no reason to change. IIRC there have been a few postings on jigs for making them up but I'm sure the authors will come forward.

 

Usual disclaimer applies, just a happy punter.

 

Cheers,

 

David

[Paul Cram]

Having experiencede them on an exhibition layout I would make the following observations based on experience:

The set up is critical to reliable operation. It is not a matter of just using the slot in the buffer beam as they ust all be at the same height. Any variation  sees vehicles becoming uncoupled.

The position with regard to the buffers is also critical as if they protrude just a fraction too far they won't uncouple.

If fitted stock is used then the vac/westinghouse pipe needs telocation away from the coupling for them to work.

They need to be packed carefully for transport as the loops are easily damaged.

[dasatcopthorne]

Been fitting them for a few years.

 

I recommend:

 

1. Get a simple wagon, say a 1 plank type and set it up as a 'standard' to match all your others to.

2. on the 'loop' couplings, solder the wire into the hook and not the loop part. this will keep the loop 'level'.

3. rub down and almost 'polish' the leading edge of the loop so that it slides up and over the opposing hook easily.

 

Remember that sprung buffers are a no, no as the vehicles push on the buffers and not the couplings.

 

Permanent magnets are fine. Use Neodinium (sec) but get the strength right otherwise they will attract the axles and move wagons. Get a trial pack to mess about with. If you have already laid your track, the right magnet will work through the baseboard.

 

Best of luck.

 

Dave.

[Torper]

4 hours ago, Paul Cram said:

The set up is critical to reliable operation. It is not a matter of just using the slot in the buffer beam as they ust all be at the same height. Any variation  sees vehicles becoming uncoupled.

 

Buffer beam slots can vary in height and some are not long enough for a Dinghams hook.  They may therefore need some enlargement, but the use of a suitable Dinghams jig will resolve that and ensure a consistent height (the centre of the bufferbeam coupler slot should be 14mm, give or take 0.5mm, above the railhead).  Sometimes it's easier, as suggested in the instructions, to drill a 2mm hole through the bufferbeam slot at the correct height and then cover that with one of the etched drawgear endplates provided.

 

4 hours ago, Paul Cram said:

The position with regard to the buffers is also critical as if they protrude just a fraction too far they won't uncouple.

 

Again, use of a suitable jig and possibly the spacers provided with the etch will ensure that the coupling hook and the buffers protrude at the appropriate (and same) length.  Incidentally, Dinghams advise against the use of sprung buffers.  If you want details of the homemade Dinghams jig that I use, please PM me with you email details.

 

4 hours ago, Paul Cram said:

If fitted stock is used then the vac/westinghouse pipe needs telocation away from the coupling for them to work.

 

An upright vac pipe does need to be about 4mm away from the coupling hook on the loop end of the vehicle.  That is not necessarily unprototypical.

 

I can't comment on the fragility of the loops when transported but they certainly seem robust enough for home use.

 

DT

Edited April 18, 2019 by Torper
Spelling!

[Barnaby]

Thanks for you comments gents, time for me to do some reading up I think.

 

Regards

[PMP]

https://albionyard.wordpress.com/2018/12/29/notes-from-the-man-cave-getting-to-grips-with-dinghams/

 

This link might be of use

[Barnaby]

Cheers PMP that looks useful too.

 

Best