Weathering the Model Rail J70

[wiggoforgold]

The Model Rail J70 is a fine model in it’s own right, well detailed with enviable running qualities. It will satisfy many straight out of the box, but I feel a model of such quality will benefit from a little weathering. To my mind the purpose of weathering is to make a model look used, to help it blend in with surrounding models, and to give it some individuality.

I started work by stripping down the model. I removed the windows, couplings and cowcatchers following the instructions in the booklet that comes with the model. I didn’t remove the mechanism, and I didn’t remove the to half of the bodywork to reveal the interior detail, although I would have liked to. I couldn’t see a way of easily doing this without damaging the model, so I left well alone.

I then masked off the entire model, except for the roof. The roof was sprayed with a mixture of Tamiya NATO Black (XF69) and  Dark Grey (XF24). Once dry, the masking tape was removed, and the wheels and underframe masked off. I then painted the foot plates and as much of the boiler and firebox as I could, with a mix of Tamiya NATO Black, Dark Grey and Flat Brown (XF10). I then fitted the end doors. In the box, there is a choice of open or closed.  I chose to have mine closed. According to the booklet, the closed doors can be pressed into the aperture for the doors, but I found that a little filing top and bottom was needed to make them sit properly. Once in place, a little solvent was run into the joint. to glue it in place.

I had previously primed and painted the etched builders and GE district allocation plates that come with the model, and painted them to match the body, using a mixture of Tamiya Flat Brown, Khaki,  Red and Yellow. Once dry, they were cut out from the fret and glued in place .

The whole locomotive was then sprayed with Humbrol Acrylic Matt Varnish. To my mind, this and painting the roof are the two biggest decorative improvements to the model. The cow catchers and etched window frames were also so sprayed.

I use DG type B couplings, and consideration had to be given to mounting these. The model comes with a choice of cowcatchers, a set with a hole moulded in to allow a standers tension lock coupling in an NEM pocket to be fitted, and a set without the hole for users of scle couplings. I used the set without the hole. In this case the only part of the DG coupling used is the hook and buffing plate. The etched mounting part is cut off. I retain the fold down “ears” which form the mounting for holding the coupling loop (I don’t fit this to locos), as they are useful in positioning the coupling for mounting.

I then fold up some wire, about .45mm in diameter, into the shape of an elongated “U”. The “U” ppart fits in to the NEM pocket. The legs of the “U” are cranked slightly where they leave the NEM pocket, to bring them level with the top of the pocket. In due course they will form the mount for the coupling plate. The “U” shaped part is then glued in the NEM pocket, and the cowcatchers fitted, so that the legs poke out between the vertical bars of the cowcatcher. These are then trimmed level with the buffers, and coupling glued on top.

Weathering the body can now commence. I first gave the body, including the side skirts and cowcatchers, but not the roof, a coat of a mixture of Humbrol Smoke and Earth (More smoke than earth) weathering powders, mixed with a little water and Humbrol Decalfix. This was allowed to dry. Most of this was then removed, partially using a cotton bud moistened with make up remover, and partially wit a 2mm glass fibre brush, used very gently. More smoke weathering powder was applied dry, and again some of it was removed. This leaves the appearance of accumulated grime between the body side planks, and around the metal work on the body sides. The skirts, particularly the bottom edges were given various mixes of powders, using smoke, earth and rust colours. A mix of rust and earth powders, water and decalfix was run in to some of the panel lines and round the access panels in the skirts.

The bottom edges of the skirts were very lightly sprayed with MIG earth, to build up the impression of mud and dust at the bottom of the skirts.

The windows were then fitted. I used the etched window frames supplied, made up and fitted as described in the booklet. As well as the end windows being open, I opened a couple of the side windows as well. There’s lots of photographs on the internet showing how the windows were usually left.

Final weathering consisted of painting the buffer heads Tamiya Flat Brown, and lightly dry brushing the edges of the steps and footplate edges with metalcote gun metal. My model still needs a crew, and I’d like to add a lamp.

The model will be in service on Upwell Drove at the SWAG members day.

 

Alex

[Grasslands]

This is a great bit of weathering. I saw it on the BRM Instagram feed today. Well done. Your layout also looks great