Jump to content

And now for something completely different....Dromahair - DJLC


Argos
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Gold

Thanks Pete,

 

That seems to be the consensus of opinion, although I can't disguise the fiddle exits without some unprototypical trees planted at the front of the layout.

 

Still, I suppose compromises have to made!

  • Like 1
  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...
  • RMweb Gold
On 20/02/2020 at 13:31, Argos said:

I've not made much progress on Dromahair of late as I've been focusing my modelling time on getting Glencruitten ready for the Macclesfield Model Railway Exhibition in mid March.

However, Although these have just arrived in the post and are tempting me to drop everything and dig out the soldering iron:-

 

 

718279898_MGWRwagonetches.jpg.221ca667ef4c96524be6c3c8a7de063c.jpg

 

They are the etches for JM Design's (John M on this forum)  MGWR horse box and refrigerator van kits reduced to 2mm.

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/88975-j-m-design-mgwr-horse-box-and-meat-van/

John hasn't merely  reduced the size by 50% but also re-worked the W irons to work with our standard association components.

 

For the uninitiated the Midland Great Western Railway (no &, that was saved for the big island version of a similar name) ran into Sligo which was the southern terminus of the SL&NCR so wagons from the MGWR would be seen working north over the line to Enniskillen. 

 

I'm looking forward to getting started on these but I must contain my enthusiasm until the end of March!

There is something about a virgin, untarnished sheet of etch brass......

 

That looks very good. I agree there is something encouraging about a sheet of etches. I am not sure about the comma in the last line though.

 

I do find this quite and inspiring build. Never been to Ireland but from the photos a lot of places have an open look about them. 2mm is probably a good scale to achieve that.

 

Don

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Thanks Don,

 

I do find it slightly strange that such a little layout is providing so much interest. Still it's all the more encouragement to crack on!

 

Angus

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold
Posted (edited)

Well after a year's lay off I've picked up Dromahair, who knows it might even be ready for the June 2022 event!

867721352_ModuleoverviewMay21.jpg.f247b02446475d16621721962cfea098.jpg

 

I've even had a loco running, a C class diesel 3d print on a Tomix chassis with the wheels pressed out to near gauge. Still work to do on that!

The diesel 3d print was a gift from a fellow 2mm modeller along with a shot down etch of a 101 class 0-6-0 (GSR J15). Work has commenced on this starting with the tender chassis.

798183412_101tenderchassis1.jpg.44e65541455043b7dff364d69307a15c.jpg

 

The loco will eventually become no 106, with a 4'4" boiler it owned until 1937 complete with the GS&WR standard double smokebox doors.

The etch is quite complex but I've got a copy of the instructions for the 4mm kit and there are details of builds in 4mm and 7mm over on the Irish Railway Modeller website. Once I get this built this etch will have been built in 2mm, 4mm, S and 7mm scale.

 

1103704295_101etch.jpg.96f98533f83e3bbfbd05e2d638a29a19.jpg

 

I would be interested if anyone knows the whereabouts of any more of these etches, I'd quite like to build one in final condition with a Z type superheated boiler wheezing around in CIE days prior to withdrawal in the early 60s.

 

Finally I've almost finished the horsebox and meat van, I just need some number decals to finish before sealing and weathering.

978746668_MGWRvanslettered.jpg.b401e4ef6b7166be8ac276c8beaaeecc.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by Argos
  • Like 13
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold
Posted (edited)

On the off chance that there is someone else out there tempted by 2mmfs 10.5mm gauge, I've approached JM Designs with a view to getting their GSWR 52 (D17) Class 4-4-0 and MGWR K class (G2) 2-4-0 etches shrunk to 2mm.

 

https://irishrailwaymodeller.com/topic/10040-2mm-scale-gswr-52-class-4-4-0-and-mgwr-ksgsr650-class-2-4-0/?tab=comments#comment-156454

 

GSWR 52 class:

Class D17 - 54 - Aspinall GSWR Class 52 4-4-0, built 1883 by Inchicore Works - 1925 to GSR, 1930 rebuilt with Belpaire boiler, 1945 to CIE - withdrawn 1959

 

MGWR K Class (G3)

Class G2 - 655 - Atock MGWR Class K 2-4-0 - built 1897 by Broadstone Works as MGWR No.29 CLONSILLA - 1925 to GSR - 1926 rebuilt, 1941 rebuilt with Belpaire superheated boiler - 1945 to CIE - 1954 rebuilt with round top boiler - 1961 withdrawn.

 

Go on,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,you know you want to!

Edited by Argos
The MGWR loco is a G3 not a G2 as any fool knows.... even me! Nope it's a G2... the G3 is the ex WL&WR 2-4-0 designed by Mr Robinson later of GCR fame.
Link to post
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Argos said:

On the off chance that there is someone else out there tempted by 2mmfs 10.5mm gauge, I've approached JM Designs with a view to getting their GSWR 52 (D17) Class 4-4-0 and MGWR K class (G2) 2-4-0 etches shrunk to 2mm.

 

https://irishrailwaymodeller.com/topic/10040-2mm-scale-gswr-52-class-4-4-0-and-mgwr-ksgsr650-class-2-4-0/?tab=comments#comment-156454

 

GSWR 52 class:

Class D17 - 54 - Aspinall GSWR Class 52 4-4-0, built 1883 by Inchicore Works - 1925 to GSR, 1930 rebuilt with Belpaire boiler, 1945 to CIE - withdrawn 1959

 

MGWR K Class (G2)

Class G2 - 655 - Atock MGWR Class K 2-4-0 - built 1897 by Broadstone Works as MGWR No.29 CLONSILLA - 1925 to GSR - 1926 rebuilt, 1941 rebuilt with Belpaire superheated boiler - 1945 to CIE - 1954 rebuilt with round top boiler - 1961 withdrawn.

 

Go on,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,you know you want to!

Sorry, but if I go to a broader gauge I’ll be following the one true path :jester:

Ian

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

34 minutes ago, Ian Smith said:

Sorry, but if I go to a broader gauge I’ll be following the one true path :jester:

Ian

 

So... Midland Railway, Bristol - Gloucester in the 1840s?

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold
Posted (edited)

A grotty day gave me the excuse to do a bit more on the tender and get the basic body complete. 

1816466968_101tender1.jpg.514e9f8ba0f3fc79ef55b81786e23f6b.jpg

 

1111242145_101tender2.jpg.c9ac62eb5e3a3aed66f240499595da84.jpg

 

A bit of cleaning up is needed and I can start on the detailing.

 

I've also received the etches for the 52 class and the G2 (MGWR K class) mentioned above.

The G2 is a particular favourite so I've already got the wheels and motor ready for a start, I will finish the J15 first though, despite the temptation!

516486420_MGWRKclasskit.jpg.0127f7366563726278b93898f5545ec6.jpg

Edited by Argos
  • Like 6
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

A bit more progress detailing the tender to report.

I've almost completed the soldering on the body, only the lamp irons, handrails and brake standard to add. I can then add some of the plastic details.

490561347_101tender3.jpg.5b52f30aa183e872b4f21b543ef9c25f.jpg

 

362465821_101tender4.jpg.1eba41b936acfa1209d34f10b18926fa.jpg

 

I'm not convinced by those buffers though, I think I need something smaller!

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

Good to see it coming together, Angus. Braver man than me. The wobbly loco footplate to come!

 

I think that you are right about the buffers. Generally steam age loco buffers are notoriously weedy.

 

Do you have a copy of 'Steaming in Three Centuries'? It tells you everything that you need to know about the 101/J15 class and very well illustrated. If you haven't i could lend you my copy.

 

David

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, DavidLong said:

The wobbly loco footplate to come!

 

Hi David,

I am quite fortunate in the fact that some kind soul has sent me the wobbly footplate pre-assembled :wink_mini:.

It is a bit of a cheat, but it will save me some time and I want to get a couple of locos and other stock complete for the DJLC next year.

 

1 hour ago, DavidLong said:

If you haven't i could lend you my copy

 

Thanks, I did buy a copy prior to starting the build, detail photos of the standard GSWR A type tender are a bit thin on the ground though. Lots of 3/4 loco shots mind.

I'm currently using the Association's 18" LMS buffers as these seemed to best match the drawings, I'm going to replace them with the 16" versions, I'm hoping these will be in better proportion, if not I'll have to turn up my own (my reluctance to doing this is I'm not convinced I could get four identical buffers made). I think a coat of paint will also help.

 

Class J15 - 130 - McDonnell GS&WR Class 101 0-6-0 - built 1882 by Inchicore Works - 1902 rebuilt, 1925 to GSR, 1945 to CIE, 1947 rebuilt with Belpaire boiler - withdrawn 1965 - seen here at Cork in 1932.

 

Note this tender has extended raised section to increase coal capacity to the version I'm modelling.

Edited by Argos
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I decided I couldn't live with the buffers and have removed them until a replacement set arrives from Shop 3. Apart from the lamp irons on only other soldering job on the body is the handrails which I'd not been looking forward to, I always manage to reduce these to a blob of wire and solder just as I add the last piece.

 

Careful clamping and the use of aluminium hair grips as a heat sink ensured success this time with the assembly including the handbrake being assembled  from 0.3mm brass wire.

12776483_101tender5.jpg.3fc02fd52572b91827109fc8f81390d0.jpg

 

I don't want to add the remaining details, which are plastic, until I've soldered the buffers in, so a start has been made on the loco chassis.

 

The etch is too thin to use the chassis as is, so I'm going to use the etch as a guide to cut out the frames from phosphor bronze sheet.

2118806_101chassis1.jpg.b326e6b5926f746ee22e33240c7a72d7.jpg

 

Two strips of phosphor bronze and the etched frame were clamped together and soldered with a blow torch. The coupling rod etch was then added to act as a guide for drilling the axles. 

 

  • Like 5
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

A productive day drilling, cutting and filing has resulted in a presentable set of frames.

 

I managed to snap a carbide drill whilst drilling the holes to mount the brakes so had to revert to an HSS drill and drill slight under hence one of the holes is out of line. It will be hidden by the brakes so no great drama.

 

The springs in the photo are waiting to be soldered onto the tender.

 

347210805_101chasisfullypreped.jpg.832c06ba9b1da5f98415549be22ed8ff.jpg

  • Like 4
  • Craftsmanship/clever 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice re-use of the etched frames.  I prefer a more "heavy-duty" frame than is provided by etching, although the convenience of them is tempting. 

A good quality sharp HSS drill ought to be perfectly OK for phosphor-bronze. 

 

Looking forward to seeing more progress on this

Mark

  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I've found that pb bearings on 10thou frames (etched or cut) to be perfectly adequate. You just have to be careful that everything is perfectly square when soldering them to the pcb spacers. 

 

Jim 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Thanks both,

 

I have a suspicion that these etches are than 10 thou, the tender chassis was very flexible when made.

To be honest I've  not had much joy with getting a reliable working 2mm loco chassis so I'm hoping the heavy duty approach bears fruit.

But then I am always a bit ham fisted with things.

I nicked the idea of 30thou PB frames off Tim Watson, if it works for him......

 

The HSS drills worked fine, I just didn't have a 0.3mm shanked HSS drill, and my straight shanked 0.3mm drill was too small for the collets on my mill.

I do have a small pillar drill with a fine chuck for just such a purpose, but do you think I could find the chuck key...............:banghead:

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...