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class 08 TTS sound decoder


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I'm still considering the best way to install these into my older Bachmann 08s (no socket so hard wiring will be necessary).  Have removed small PCB and cut off metal screw lugs but still not enough room for the decoder.  I reckon it'll need to go inside the cab. I did a dry run with an old kaput 47 TTS decoder and it sits in there ok and hardly visible.  Will post photos once if install is successful. Have also asked Richard about replacing speaker with a sugar cube.

Edited by cravensdmufan
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7 hours ago, MikeParkin65 said:

I've got green D3509 and whilst I'm not sure what constitutes the 'older 08' model the motor in mine has the flat sides vertical yet I still got the decoder to mount on top of the motor secured to the top of the bonnet. I have hard wired tho using the the former location of the of the  8 pin socket for a sugarcube.

 

I think this is the best Hornby TTS project to date matching the models running characteristics very well.  Of course my wife, hearing the regular 'toot toots' is asking whether I've finally bought Thomas The Tank Engine :)

The Ladies just don't understand Mike .:laugh_mini2:

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Some good info on here, quite fancy having a go at this myself! 

 

Any chance somebody could put a picture of where exactly to connect a stay alive unit to the decoder? Also any recommendations of a stay alive unit that could be hidden in the cab?

 

Much appreciated.

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On 14/05/2019 at 22:16, Clagsniffer said:

 

Any chance somebody could put a picture of where exactly to connect a stay alive unit to the decoder? Also any recommendations of a stay alive unit that could be hidden in the cab?

 

 

Scroll down the page a bit here https://www.Hornby.com/uk-en/forum/stay-alive-install-for-tts-decoder/

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On 07/05/2019 at 21:40, kernowtim said:

May have to get one of these for my Dapol O gauge model, should be a bit more room for a bigger speaker!

interesting, will it be powerful enough for the motor 

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38 minutes ago, Ouroborus said:

 

Separate decoder for the motor

 

I'm pretty sure in another thread it was confirmed that the Dapol 08 draws less current than the tts chip maximum. But do a search.

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Have a look here. I think the locations shown are easier to add wires to - get the tip of a soldering iron to - than the rectifying diodes, but then I am always nervous about soldering wires to decoders. Done a couple of TTS this way and they work okay.

 

Izzy

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14 minutes ago, Chrisr40 said:

I'm pretty sure in another thread it was confirmed that the Dapol 08 draws less current than the tts chip maximum. But do a search.

 

Yes, but I believe it uses a 21pin socket and the lighting might/ would be an issue. Easier just to add the TTS so it goes along for the ride and provides the sound, with ‘another’ doing the donkey work.

 

Izzy

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On 14/05/2019 at 16:29, cravensdmufan said:

I'm still considering the best way to install these into my older Bachmann 08s (no socket so hard wiring will be necessary).  Have removed small PCB and cut off metal screw lugs but still not enough room for the decoder.  I reckon it'll need to go inside the cab. I did a dry run with an old kaput 47 TTS decoder and it sits in there ok and hardly visible.  Will post photos once if install is successful. Have also asked Richard about replacing speaker with a sugar cube.

Phil: See my updated Hornby 08 conversion in a few posts time .... relocating the decoder to where the 8-pin socket is mounted and requiring no surgery to crete.  Hard wiring also required about 5mm extra length on the speaker leads.

 

Bachmann 08 Conversion...

I converted both a Hornby and Bachmann 08 yesterday - only proble with the Bachmann was dropping the centre axle plunger and pring twice .... only found once so far ... that is my next task - otherwise all is well and working..

I cut off the chassis weight at its thinnest point, just ahead of the flywheel.  I cut out the body behind the radiator grille and put the Hornby speaker there in both versions - trimming off the corner metal of the speaker at the top to ensure I could the speaker as high up as possible (and more centrally behind the grille apperture.

I protected the decoder position ( a slot in fit ) with 2 pieces of plasticard - 1 on the speaker side, and the other from the 'waist' level (otherwise it fowled plastic in the lower part on reassembly) upwards - protecting it from the flywheel and chassis.   I hard wired the 4 required wires - and bundles te remainder for future use.

Unfortunately the Bachmann grille is solid - unlike the Hornby Slatted piece - so it needs cutting out to leave the frame, and microstrips inserting vertically to complete.  The body clip fits back onto the chassis. front and back.

 

On the Hornby08, SEE UPDATE the decoder on top of the insulated  motor is a clearance fit - and the body sits freely with a small gap - and if the rear screws are fitted, it opens to 1mm at the front ... this may close with screws but I'm uncertain what I might be squashing.  Both are early versions of the Super Detail Shunters - pre sound.

 

Completed a Bachmann Class 20 yesterday too - did not use the sugar cube speakers I had bought in but used an ESU squarish model with silver grille on top and felt rear..... located on the chassis beneath the fan.

Class 60 and 42Valentas no problem plug and play.

Edited by Phil S
updated Hornby conversion - no body gap/crush
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1 hour ago, Phil S said:

I converted both a Hornby and Bachmann 08 yesterday - only proble with the Bachmann was dropping the centre axle plunger and pring twice .... only found once so far ... that is my next task - otherwise all is well and working..

I cut off the chassis weight at its thinnest point, just ahead of the flywheel.  I cut out the body behind the radiator grille and put the Hornby speaker there in both versions - trimming off the corner metal of the speaker at the top to ensure I could the speaker as high up as possible (and more centrally behind the grille apperture.

I protected the decoder position ( a slot in fit ) with 2 pieces of plasticard - 1 on the speaker side, and the other from the 'waist' level (otherwise it fowled plastic in the lower part on reassembly) upwards - protecting it from the flywheel and chassis.   I hard wired the 4 required wires - and bundles te remainder for future use.

Unfortunately the Bachmann grille is solid - unlike the Hornby Slatted piece - so it needs cutting out to leave the frame, and microstrips inserting vertically to complete.  The body clip fits back onto the chassis. front and back.

On the Hornby08, the decoder on top of the insulated  motor is a clearance fit - and the body sits freely with a small gap - and if the rear screws are fitted, it opens to 1mm at the front ... this may close with screws but I'm uncertain what I might be squashing.  Both are early versions of the Super Detail Shunters - pre sound.

Completed a Bachmann Class 20 yesterday too - did not use the sugar cube speakers I had bought in but used an ESU squarish model with silver grille on top and felt rear..... located on the chassis beneath the fan.

Class 60 and 42Valentas no problem plug and play.

All very useful information, thanks Phil.

 

I must admit I took the easy option in the end and put the decoder in the cab; drilled two holes either side of the bulkhead for the 4 wires (red, black,orange, grey) and the two speaker wires.  All 6 wires needed to be extended.  I'm not bothering with lights on the 08s.  The decoder is just visable in the cab - but the next one I do I will cut down the angled plastic bulkhead so the decoder lies flat on the cab floor.  I used the original Hornby speaker sealed around with blue tak adjacent to the radiator.  The next one I do will be with a sugar cube for better sound which I hope to buy tomorrow.

 

I may also fit a stay alive (see separate thread) 

 

Anyway, here it is.  I'm pleased with it for a first attempt.  Slow running is amazingly smooth after CV adjustments.

 

 

 

For £35 for the decoder, it's perfect for me anway!

Edited by cravensdmufan
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UPDATED Conversion of early Hornby SD 08:  I was concerned about the small gap beneath the 'refitted' body caused by the decoder being located above the motor (which can also be a 'hot' place to put a decoder - cool is best) - so I looked again this morning, and realised that as usual the 8pin socket area was a waste of space ... then I realised that part of the block was screwed on separately - and when removed created a large usable space ... for only a minimal weight loss, with no surgery!  but still slightly short for the TTS decoder....

 

SO, I glued a piece of curved cardboard over the top of the motor - extending over the flywheel - to prevent any contact !!

The TTS decoder was then hardwired and mounted diagonally - starting flush with the front of the gear tower, and finishing with the wires over the flywheel - protected by the card.   The result is a perfectly fitting body - with plenty of sound from the Hornby speaker through the front grille ( first - remove the grille, and then make a square hole in the front of the body, which wil be covered by the slatted grille afterwards ).  The speaker is NOT glued to the body (as with my Bachmann concersion) but uses the supplied foam to hold it to the chassis - so that it can be easily rewired ( the supplied speaker leads are now 5mm too short) . Surplus wires taped to the card on top of the motor.

Edited by Phil S
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  • 6 months later...

Fitted one of these to my 08 yesterday.

 

Thing is, using Railmater, is that the idle sound does not stay on on Engine start, thus it fails to notch up/down. 

 

I read the instructions but l am a bit lost.

 

Should I reset the dcc and scrub the loco from Railmaster and start all over again?

 

 

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F1 in the RM loco function list must be of the format SOUND ON/OFF, else the engine sound will start, play through and stop. This should be correctly formatted already in the pull down list.

 

Note also that ECS (extended cold start) via F9 on newer TTS decoders works thus...

F9 on

Fi on 

engine cycles through cold start variations but never settles to idle.

F9 off

Engine settles to idle.

Or

If F1 is set to off with F9 on then the start is cancelled and the engine sound dies out.

 

Previous TTS F9 cold start was a fixed regime, i.e. it played through then settled to idle automatically.

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I have been messing about with one of these and doing research for the last couple of days. It’s so frustrating that the chip just doesn’t quite fit on top of the motor. Not sure at the minute if I should except a tiny gap between the body and chassis or start hacking bits.

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Thanks Richard,

 

 I actually managed to sort it without changing anything other than removing the solid plastic behind the grill. It is a pre sound version, probably about 10 years old but it is DCC ready. By having the chip so that the dome piece faced down and into the slot above the flywheel and separating the wires so half are routed each side of the chip and not over it, the body slid all the way down to where it should be.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi everyone, can anybody advise me where i can get a TTS decoder for the '08 ????   everywhere seems to be out of stock!

Real shame, as they look like really good decoders, and at a realistic price!

would like to fit one to my 7mm bachman brass 08, loads of room for a speaker and the motor stall current is ideal too.

thanks in advance....

 

Spud

 

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2 hours ago, spud said:

Hi everyone, can anybody advise me where i can get a TTS decoder for the '08 ????   everywhere seems to be out of stock!

Real shame, as they look like really good decoders, and at a realistic price!

would like to fit one to my 7mm bachman brass 08, loads of room for a speaker and the motor stall current is ideal too.

thanks in advance....

 

Spud

 

Bought my TTS chips from derails web page. Top service and good pricing too. 

Chris

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  • 2 months later...

Just my tuppenth on the Bachmann 08.

 

Much more difficult to add the supplied chip and speaker to than the modern Hornby version, but if you're a little hesitant to mod the chassis, then the chip and supplied speaker will both fit into the cab without adding cable.  You will need to remove the metal weight in the body and then find a way of feeding them through and what I found was that you can cut/melt a 'slot'  into the top of the bulkhead in the cab and feed through both the speaker and decoder.  (the decoder won't come through completely, but sits 2/3 in the cab, 1/3 in the body, supported in the slot you cut)  

 

I took out a couple of windows to help the sound out and the glazing at the back of the cab has a lip that needs removing for the cab to seat back down.  Paint the sides of the speaker black and you won't see it.  You won't see the decoder as it sits under the cab roof.  Still not as easy as the Hornby version!

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