Joining baseboards on a large exhibition layout

[TEAMYAKIMA]

I have an existing 26ft x 10ft exhibition layout and I am aware of the time it takes to set up and dismantle at a show. So I am thinking of various ways to cut that down on my next layout.

 

One area I'm looking at is the time it takes to screw boards together with 8mm bolts  and so I was thinking of using something like this instead ………………

 

Any thoughts?

[john new]

As a regular theatre back-stage volunteer the most common scenery alignment fitting is split hinges. Quick and easy. Flints are the main supplier. Flints do many different lock systems.  No connection with them other than as a customer.

[RedgateModels]

If your layout is DCC they can take the track bus from one board to another too 🙂

 

 

If you don't have them already you'll need some patternmakers dowels to provide alignment. 

Edited July 29, 2022 by RedgateModels

[TEAMYAKIMA]

17 minutes ago, RedgateModels said:

If your layout is DCC they can take the track bus from one board to another too

 

 

If you don't have them already you'll need some patternmakers dowels to provide alignment. 

 Now that is VERY interesting - great idea - thanks.

[RedgateModels]

1 minute ago, TEAMYAKIMA said:

 Now that is VERY interesting - great idea - thanks.

 

I started this with Fourgig East and now my youngest's train set is the same. Can't do it with Summat Colliery as it has a separate 19v DC bus for the accessories. With Fourgig everything is powered from the DCC bus.

[TheQ]

I prefer these type latches as they are adjustable, you don't have to be precise fitting them to get the right tension. Whatever you use you'll still need some sort of alignment bolt or dowel

Edited May 7, 2019 by TheQ

[Claude_Dreyfus]

We have used these types of clips on exhibition layouts in the past and they have caused us no end of issues. Their main drawback is the lack of adjustability, especially at shows where the layout reacts to temperature/humidity changes. At least bolts will allow for some realignment as required. They also get in the way, running the risk of getting caught or damaged when erecting/dismantling at shows or moving around.

 

I must say though, using them as the main track bus is a neat idea...

[57xx]

3 hours ago, RedgateModels said:

If you don't have them already you'll need some patternmakers dowels to provide alignment. 

 

Was going to suggest the same for alignement. Just make sure you shop around, a bit like weddings, adding "railway" to a common component adapted from elsewhere seems to add a huge markup and prices seem to vary a lot for suppliers of these.

[newbryford]

5 hours ago, RedgateModels said:

If your layout is DCC they can take the track bus from one board to another too

 

 

If you don't have them already you'll need some patternmakers dowels to provide alignment. 

 

I've used 4-5 types of dowels over my layout building lifetime.

These are now my preferred type.

Get the kit to begin with (although if you already have 13 and 19mm spade bits, then no worry - just get the dowels).

https://www.dccconcepts.com/product/baseboard-dowels-wspade-drill-bits-2-pack/

https://www.dccconcepts.com/product/baseboard-dowels-4-pack/

 

Extremely easy to fit and tolerant of minor variations in initial drilling!

 

Cheers,

Mick

 

[Damo666]

3 hours ago, 57xx said:

 

Was going to suggest the same for alignement. Just make sure you shop around, a bit like weddings, adding "railway" to a common component adapted from elsewhere seems to add a huge markup and prices seem to vary a lot for suppliers of these.

Indeed. I was just looking for dowels last week. Adding 'Railway' brought you to some very reliable suppliers, and high costs which I cannot see how they are justified.

 

At my work, when designing cabinets for clients, we tend to aim for Hafele for all ironmongery mechanisms; drawer runners, hinges, clips, clasps etc. They are reliable and have a huge range.

 

For dowels I spotted these in metal: Guiding Dowel. Not bad at £1.68 for 10 including VAT!

There are two other variants, made from nylon. Not sure how these would compare in use though. Press Fit at £0.36 a set and Plug-in for £0.29 a set. [Edit: See my post two below for an update]. More expensive for 10 than the metal guiding dowels, so must have a useful application.

Think I'd be happy with the metal ones.

 

Edited May 7, 2019 by Damo666
Revised comment on suitability

[newbryford]

2 hours ago, Damo666 said:

Indeed. I was just looking for dowels last week. Adding 'Railway' brought you to some very reliable suppliers, and high costs which I cannot see how they are justified.

 

At my work, when designing cabinets for clients, we tend to aim for Hafele for all ironmongery mechanisms; drawer runners, hinges, clips, clasps etc. They are reliable and have a huge range.

 

For dowels I spotted these in metal: Guiding Dowel. Not bad at £1.68 for 10 including VAT!

There are two other variants, made from nylon. Not sure how these would compare in use though. Press Fit at £0.36 a set and Plug-in for £0.29 a set. More expensive for 10 than the metal guiding dowels, so must have a useful application.

Think I'd be happy with the metal ones.

 

 

It looks like the press fit and plug in have some degree of retention on them - note the "bulge" in the male pin.

I've used the metal type in the first link - found them a little too small/short - but that's my experience of them.

 

Cheers,

Mick

[Damo666]

12 minutes ago, newbryford said:

 

It looks like the press fit and plug in have some degree of retention on them - note the "bulge" in the male pin.

I've used the metal type in the first link - found them a little too small/short - but that's my experience of them.

 

Cheers,

Mick

As we've specified the metal Guiding Dowels before, the other two Nylon connectors were new to me, only spotted last week when browsing.

 

After reading your comment I looked more closely at the descriptions.

The Press-Fit version states: "Can be disconnected at any time and with parting resistance of up to 15 kg".

The Plug-In version states: "non-release fastening"!

 

I'll revise my post above to make sure anyone looking is aware.

Edited May 7, 2019 by Damo666

[57xx]

I've used this type before:

 

However searching for "pattern makers dowels" on Google is a lot different from when I built my boards 10 years ago! Now the first 4 pages or so (I gave up at 4...) are dominated with "railway" and "baseboard" suppliers/references and not the OEM sources that used to show up when I found I'd overpaid a whole heap for the dowels from a modelling source.

[SM42]

If your carpentry is up to it why not make the end of each board frame interlock.

 

The boards then just slot together and align at the same time. 

 

There has to be a secondary system to stop them pulling apart again obviously, but that could a  simple  spring clamp arrangement  depending on how secure you want to feel

 

On one of our DCC layouts we have used small brass ball catches to transfer power from board to board and the interlocking frame.  Just slot 'em together, secure joints  and plug in power.

 

Worked OK now for a number of years now.

 

Andy

 

[corneliuslundie]

I don't know about OEM suppliers as i have always got by patternmakers' dowels from the EMGS.

Jonathan

[Joseph_Pestell]

10 minutes ago, corneliuslundie said:

I don't know about OEM suppliers as i have always got by patternmakers' dowels from the EMGS.

Jonathan

 

As ever, Google is your friend. Lots of wholesalers out there for this kind of stuff - and much cheaper when you buy direct. Don't know if it's still there but there used to be a great shop for this gear in Farringdon (just off Hatton Garden).

[Clive Mortimore]

Wood expands and contracts without any assistance form us, which causes alignment problems. One club layout I was involved with had some lovely pattern makers dowels but had been mounted too low down so when the wood on top moved it did so just enough to misalign the tracks so every now and then "clunk"  went a coach as it derailed. The track ends had been soldered on to some quite large brass screws. The soldering iron we had at the show was great for resoldering the bad wire connections but not powerful enough to heat up the screws and melt the solder on the tracks.

 

Since then for my own layouts I have held the track at the board edge in place with Peco track spikes. The boards are clamped together with G clamps. I align the tracks by eye as I tighten the clamps. If not lined up I gently tap the boards with a hammer. If one board is lower than the other I tap from under it. Never bash the higher one down, it damages the scenery. I have never had any cross baseboard joint derailments.

[corneliuslundie]

When the American modellers have their regular modular meet at Armitage they do just as Clive does, with clamps. It solves any problems aligning baseboards built by different people. I don't know, however, how long it takes.

Jonathan