7 mm loco chassis

[hayfield]

I am about to rebuild a Slaters 0-6-4 chassis and build an old Jedinco 4-4-2 chassis once I have picked up all the parts I require to build them, I will be using a Hobby Holidays jig I recently acquired which should assist matters

 

My previous experience in 7 mm scale is with a Roxey Mouldings well tank using horn block alignment axles/jigs, rigid wheels and wiper pickups on the drivers

 

I have decided to use Slaters plunger pickups and wheels as it seems to be far easier to fit pickups this way in the long run

 

My main query is whether to use Slaters sprung hornblocks ? or would I be better off using a rigid chassis  with standard brass bearings?

If I use spring hornblocks do I leave the driven axle rigid?

I am thinking of migrating to DCC, is the thin and flexible electrical wire that comes in kits up to the job

 

The two loco are a Flatiron (my favourite tank loco) and an Adams radial for my SR home branch line, I plan to keep the radial rear wheel fixed/sprung and fit pickups if sprung with hornblocks ?

 

All thoughts and recommendations on these plans are most welcome as I plan to pick up the parts I require at shows later this month  

[DLT]

Hi John,

Whereas I can't offer much advice on this job, I'm interested in following your project.

Best of luck, Dave.

[hayfield]

Dave

 

One thing that worries me is how to fit the hornblocks, firstly cutting out the frames, secondly ensuring a square fit

[doilum]

Thin flexible wire is essential if you want Slater's pickups to perform well.

[ROSSPOP]

Hi

I use Slaters plunger PU`s and their sprung hornblocks they are very easy to use using very simple processes.

A sprung (or compensated) chassis will always produce and maintain better electrical contact with the track in any scale and is of great benefit running with DCC

 

a few simple tricks.... unless you are an engineer with a complete workshop!!!!

 

Gets some old fashioned graph paper to help match the frames up and keep everything square.

I use a good old slitting disc to cut out the frames etc.

 

make sure you have established the kits inbuilt axle ride height and assemble one hornblock to work out the positioning.

 

 

 

make up and use the coupling rods very early on as a jig and use a simple axle jig to solder everything in position.

 

 

 

save your pennies and get a quality motor and gearbox.

 

 

 

Make sure you use very flexible and thin wire for the pickups to enable free movement of the plunger. (DCC wire is ideal)

 

 

position the plungers if you can at the driver axle centreline and be aware of Slaters plastic pyramid on the backs of the wheels.

 

 

 

Then comes the excitement of fitting the decoder etc.....

 

 

Cheers

 

John

Edited May 7, 2019 by ROSSPOP

[wenlock]

Hi John,

All my locos use Slater's sprung hornblocks and plunger pick ups and I'm very pleased with the results.  doilum's point about using thin flexible wire is pertinent.  Don't forget if you do decide to go down this route then you will need to source some articulated coupling rods to allow the hornblocks to move up and down.

 

Dave

[Northroader]

One thing to watch with the Slaters pickups is to tin the plungers before assembly, also tin the ends of the wires. Then when they’re all together, a very quick dab with the soldering iron to join the two. If you assemble, then start the soldering process, there’s a chance the heat runs down the plunger, and down the spring, which then starts to melt its way into the plastic top hat housing, affecting the performance.

[Simond]

I'd fully support John, Doilum & Dave's posts, I think Slater's hornblocks are very good. 

 

You do not need to have a rigid axle for the drive, it can be sprung or compensated as you prefer.  You do need jointed rods in either case.  See 2nd link below for an alternative method of pickups.

 

Hornblock assy; 

 

 

and pick-ups;

 

 

 

Hope it helps

best

Simon

 

 

 

Edited May 7, 2019 by Simond
to copy-paste the links

[daifly]

Methinks John's rods are already articulated!

Dave

[The Bigbee Line]

4 hours ago, hayfield said:

I am about to rebuild a Slaters 0-6-4 chassis and build an old Jedinco 4-4-2 chassis once I have picked up all the parts I require to build them, I will be using a Hobby Holidays jig I recently acquired which should assist matters

 

My previous experience in 7 mm scale is with a Roxey Mouldings well tank using horn block alignment axles/jigs, rigid wheels and wiper pickups on the drivers

 

I have decided to use Slaters plunger pickups and wheels as it seems to be far easier to fit pickups this way in the long run

 

My main query is whether to use Slaters sprung hornblocks ? or would I be better off using a rigid chassis  with standard brass bearings?

If I use spring hornblocks do I leave the driven axle rigid?

I am thinking of migrating to DCC, is the thin and flexible electrical wire that comes in kits up to the job

 

The two loco are a Flatiron (my favourite tank loco) and an Adams radial for my SR home branch line, I plan to keep the radial rear wheel fixed/sprung and fit pickups if sprung with hornblocks ?

 

All thoughts and recommendations on these plans are most welcome as I plan to pick up the parts I require at shows later this month  

Spooky,  I was just about to start a similar thread, I will be watching this thread with interest

[hayfield]

Crikey, thank you all for the replies and for going to so much trouble. I cannot start in earnest until after Railex as I am picking up the parts from Phil (Hobby Holidays) to convert my Chassis jig to 7 mm scale, plus I will pick up the remaining Slaters bits from Dave at Roxey Mouldings

 

I have a new set of milled coupling rods from Premier Components for the Flatiron which are jointed, the Adams Radial is 4 coupled, I take it that the wire is man enough for DCC when I switch over ?

 

I have a Jedinco (7 mm scale) kit without castings, I was sent a list of parts from Laurie Griffin, but if I bought them all the cost is just shy of £100 less that a full kit. I would rather pay the extra and buy a new kit. I have a box of spares and parts, so will use these first, then make a judgement call. The Jedinco instructions make reference to screwed spacers which I have in said box, but I am thinking of fitting L shaped spacers made from Brass angle

 

Lastly, the rear wheel I guess should be a radial fitting, no provision in the kit and I was going to fit sprung hornblocks and plunger pickups, any views on this please, as I will get better electrical pickup

[doilum]

7 hours ago, ROSSPOP said:

Hi

I use Slaters plunger PU`s and their sprung hornblocks they are very easy to use using very simple processes.

A sprung (or compensated) chassis will always produce and maintain better electrical contact with the track in any scale and is of great benefit running with DCC

 

a few simple tricks.... unless you are an engineer with a complete workshop!!!!

 

Gets some old fashioned graph paper to help match the frames up and keep everything square.

I use a good old slitting disc to cut out the frames etc.

 

make sure you have established the kits inbuilt axle ride height and assemble one hornblock to work out the positioning.

 

 

 

make up and use the coupling rods very early on as a jig and use a simple axle jig to solder everything in position.

 

 

 

save your pennies and get a quality motor and gearbox.

 

 

 

Make sure you use very flexible and thin wire for the pickups to enable free movement of the plunger. (DCC wire is ideal)

 

 

position the plungers if you can at the driver axle centreline and be aware of Slaters plastic pyramid on the backs of the wheels.

 

 

 

Then comes the excitement of fitting the decoder etc.....

 

 

Cheers

 

John

Glad someone else appreciates the usefulness of graph paper. Don't rely on the rubbish supplied to schools for the last decade or so. Seek out some proper scientific quality paper with crisp lines.