Jump to content
 

4x1 BLT Test BLT


Guest WM183
 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest WM183

Hello all.


I am experimenting with both 2mm and 4mm scales these days, but must confess 2mm / N has an allure to it which is just difficult to explain. However, I think before committing to anything overlarge in either scale, I'd like to build a test layout in 2mm to see if its for me; after all, far easier to try the smaller, more accessible one first. I currently own 2 N gauge locomotives; a Dapol GWR 57xx pannier and a Farish LMS Fairburn 2-6-4T. I think I'd like to stay with GWR/BR(W) for now, though I do enjoy the LMS as well, so I think I'd perhaps look for 1 more Pannier (I'd like one with the earlier cab) and perhaps a 45xx as well, perhaps I can trade my Farish 2-6-4T for one. However, I need to convert them to 2mm! I know there was an article in The Feb 2016 2mm association magazine about this conversion; has anyone done this? Is it something that a reasonably mechanically savvy person (ive remotored and regeared n scale brass, etc) could do? And is it possible to get a workable 2mm terminus into 4x1 as a test due to curve radii, with at least a passenger platform and a goods shed? Or would I be best served by just building to 2mm with kits, etc and running on N scale track (the Finetrax website's track looks pretty good tbh). I mean... I guess most people who convert their engines have 1/148 engines then, running with a mix of 1/148 and 1/152 stock?

Thanks much (And sorry for the rambling)

Amanda

Link to post
Share on other sites

The 57xx can be converted, but of you want something super quick and simple the Farish 64xx is what you should look at. There are replacement bearings/muff/rods available from Shop 3. It’s hardly more complicated than converting a bogie diesel. 

 

As to 1/148 and 1/152 mixed together, it’s usually ok as long as you’re careful. The difference will be more noticeable the larger the object is. So a N MK1 next to a 2mm MK1 will be notable, and this probably applies to 16 ton minerals as well. Mixing the two scales in a string of wagons will look odd. But if it’s a mixed train you should be ok. Just beware of old N gauge wagons, some are much bigger than 1/148.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Hi guys,

 

On the subject of mixing scales...

 

I have N gauge minerals and 2mm minerals and run them together.

 

The height difference is about 1mm and does not (to me) look wrong.

 

If you look at a train of mineral wagons there is quite often a variation in the visible height of the wagons.

 

A lot of this depends on how long it had been between spring and wheel changes.

 

There is quite a difference in the wheel diameter when new and when near to wheelset renewal.

 

Thanks

Phil H

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 26/05/2019 at 23:03, garethashenden said:

The 57xx can be converted, but of you want something super quick and simple the Farish 64xx is what you should look at. There are replacement bearings/muff/rods available from Shop 3. It’s hardly more complicated than converting a bogie diesel. 

 

As to 1/148 and 1/152 mixed together, it’s usually ok as long as you’re careful. The difference will be more noticeable the larger the object is. So a N MK1 next to a 2mm MK1 will be notable, and this probably applies to 16 ton minerals as well. Mixing the two scales in a string of wagons will look odd. But if it’s a mixed train you should be ok. Just beware of old N gauge wagons, some are much bigger than 1/148.

 

It is also down to a perception of what you expect a train to look like. A rake of coaches, particularly homogenous ones like BR Mk1, you expect them to be all the same size and you will notice if they are not.

 

A mixed goods , you expect every wagon to vary in size and so will not notice small differences in scale.

 

Chris

  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 26/05/2019 at 20:56, WM183 said:

Hello all.


I am experimenting with both 2mm and 4mm scales these days, but must confess 2mm / N has an allure to it which is just difficult to explain. However, I think before committing to anything overlarge in either scale, I'd like to build a test layout in 2mm to see if its for me; after all, far easier to try the smaller, more accessible one first. I currently own 2 N gauge locomotives; a Dapol GWR 57xx pannier and a Farish LMS Fairburn 2-6-4T. I think I'd like to stay with GWR/BR(W) for now, though I do enjoy the LMS as well, so I think I'd perhaps look for 1 more Pannier (I'd like one with the earlier cab) and perhaps a 45xx as well, perhaps I can trade my Farish 2-6-4T for one. However, I need to convert them to 2mm! I know there was an article in The Feb 2016 2mm association magazine about this conversion; has anyone done this? Is it something that a reasonably mechanically savvy person (ive remotored and regeared n scale brass, etc) could do? And is it possible to get a workable 2mm terminus into 4x1 as a test due to curve radii, with at least a passenger platform and a goods shed? Or would I be best served by just building to 2mm with kits, etc and running on N scale track (the Finetrax website's track looks pretty good tbh). I mean... I guess most people who convert their engines have 1/148 engines then, running with a mix of 1/148 and 1/152 stock?

Thanks much (And sorry for the rambling)

Amanda

It is very well possible to build a terminus station on a footprint of 4x1 ft. But you must try to keep it simple.

When choosing the right prototype it is even possible to build an actual location without too much compromises.

I have an example for you. Just took some pictures of my n gauge layout, a model of Blagdon station (GWR branch line terminus). Only compression is approx. 80% in length, everything else is according to the prototype.

I put my 1' ruler across the tracks, 12" mark exactly on the edge of the layout.

Layout is 4' long.

All turnouts are B7, radius of the rear siding is 2'

 

About the choice between n gauge or 2mm scale: you know you want 2mm scale, you have asked the question too often on another forum and VAG.

But let me speak for myself: my choice to build Blagdon to n gauge was a big mistake. Originally the layout was built with 2mm easitrac. It was my first attempt at trackbuilding and it was not very good. Track was not completely level, turnouts not everywhere to the right gauge and running was mediocre.

So I ripped off all track and started again with n gauge track to nmra standards so I could run stock right out of the box. Not... lots of modern British n gauge stock have flanges thicker than rp25 specs.

So I'm still looking for rp25 spoked wagon wheels but I haven't found any.

And then I started building a new 2mm scale layout for the diamond jubilee layout challenge. Never had such a smooth running layout. Seems I've learnt from my mistakes.

Would always choose 2mm scale now!

 

About the conversion of the pannier tank: why don't you buy an etched 57xx chassis kit from the association with bearings, muffs, wheels and gears? Motor can be added later if you succeed in building the chassis.

It is a replacement for the existing chassis so nothing is lost (except for the expenses for the chassis of course) if you don't succeed. But at least you have tried it then!

 

Have you already watched the videos on chassis building on the association website?

 

Jan

 

Edit: forgot to add that the 57xx chassis was not designed for the Dapol body so possibly some modification is necessary to match it to the Dapol body.

snapseed-07.jpeg

snapseed-08.jpeg

Edited by Jan W
  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

Bravo Jan!

 

I’m always surprised at the “should I do N Gauge or 2FS or some bizarre mix up of both?” questions that pop up at regular intervals in this forum.

 

Finetrax is okay, certainly a step up on PECO track, but is still a substantially greater compromise than 2FS. If you are a relative novice, trying to establish your own mashed up “standard” seems like a sure fire way to heap problems upon problems.

 

If you want a decent stab at fidelity and are prepared to put some actual modelling (rather than box shaking) in, then 2FS is THE way to go.

  • Like 1
  • Agree 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest WM183

I do love 2fs. I have an article from a back issue of the 2mm Finescale Association's magazine that describes rewheeling the Dapol model without requiring a new chassis and motor. I'll have a go at this conversion and see how it goes. I could do sooo much more in 2mm, for certain. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I did try that conversion myself, but I was disappointed with the Dapol motor and gears, so I tried the Association etched chassis and Nigel Lawton motor, and now have two Terriers that run like a dream.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...