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On 13/12/2020 at 04:44, njee20 said:

Leaning towards either a Peopoly Phenom L or Epax E156 at the moment. Depends how my flirting with O gauge wagon prints goes!

I had to look up the Epax E156 didn't know it existed, great size of build plate, but a bit pricey! Hoping the Elegoo or Anycubic folks bring out something bigger this year at a reasonable price :)  

 

Though on a separate note I have noticed Aliexpress resin prices have gone up or they aren't shipping to the UK as much which is a bit ropey, where are folks getting their resins?

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The Elegoo Jupiter has already been teased, my expectation is that it'll be the same as the Phenom/Phrozen Transform, which frustratingly are just a tiny bit too small for what I'm after. As you say though, they're a lot of money, and I could just get better at joining multi-part prints!


Re: Resin I noticed that I got an AliExpress "items you buy are discounted" email, but none of the seller would actually ship to the UK. I see now that it's £27/litre, with £27 off £104, so you get 4 litres for £81. It's worth keeping an eye out, the prices are very volatile.

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48 minutes ago, njee20 said:

The Elegoo Jupiter has already been teased, my expectation is that it'll be the same as the Phenom/Phrozen Transform, which frustratingly are just a tiny bit too small for what I'm after. As you say though, they're a lot of money, and I could just get better at joining multi-part prints!


Re: Resin I noticed that I got an AliExpress "items you buy are discounted" email, but none of the seller would actually ship to the UK. I see now that it's £27/litre, with £27 off £104, so you get 4 litres for £81. It's worth keeping an eye out, the prices are very volatile.

Yes im finding that is super annoying they used to ship to the UK but now won't... which I can't understand? I have 3.5 litres still, but i fully expect to be burning through this during the chrimbo break! Who doesn't love a festive print off or two :)

 

I haven't seen the Jupiter either, though I suspect Elegoo will be more competitive than Phrozen, they are currently the cheapest I think on the market with the 190/120/200 range with the Saturn!

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12 hours ago, woko said:

Though on a separate note I have noticed Aliexpress resin prices have gone up or they aren't shipping to the UK as much which is a bit ropey, where are folks getting their resins?

Monocure here are having daily deals on their products. Picked up 1 litre  of their Tuff resin for $80, which is a bit under 50 of your great british pounds. 

https://monocure3d.com.au/december-daily-deals/?v=322b26af01d5

 

Put the order in with $15 delivery, got a call a bit later from some guy who works there  to say he lives a five minute drive from me so he'll drop it in on his way home so it'll just cost me a beer instead.

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9 hours ago, monkeysarefun said:

Monocure here are having daily deals on their products. Picked up 1 litre  of their Tuff resin for $80, which is a bit under 50 of your great british pounds. 

https://monocure3d.com.au/december-daily-deals/?v=322b26af01d5

 

Put the order in with $15 delivery, got a call a bit later from some guy who works there  to say he lives a five minute drive from me so he'll drop it in on his way home so it'll just cost me a beer instead.

50 squid for a litre of Resin dude! That must be some resin!!!

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1 hour ago, woko said:

50 squid for a litre of Resin dude! That must be some resin!!!

Yeah, I don't think you can directly compare prices like that between countries, you need to take into account the relative income there vs here.

 

According to Google the average UK

weekly take home pay is 585 pounds (I don't have the squiggly pound sign!) 

 

In comparison the Australian weekly pay is $1771, which works out as 1001 gbp, so the resin would be the equivalent of around 29 pounds.  I think I got that right?

 

One thing we always hear from UK and US visitors is how expensive everything here is, and wonder how we can afford anything, without realising that our income is twice theirs,  so we can.  

 

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1 minute ago, monkeysarefun said:

Yeah, I don't think you can directly compare prices like that between countries, you need to take into account the relative income there vs here.

 

According to Google the average UK

weekly take home pay is 585 pounds (I don't have the squiggly pound sign!) 

 

In comparison the Australian weekly pay is $1771, which works out as 1001 gbp, so the resin would be the equivalent of around 29 pounds.  I think I got that right?

. The Economist uses the price of a Big Mac in each country to calculate this kind of thing!

 

Fair enough! Though it seems I am possibly in the wrong part of the world for earnings ;) 

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 13/12/2020 at 00:02, woko said:

Not sure there are any specific ones for 3d printing but lots of Z Brush tuts to make stone! What software are you using? 

I am using Sketch-Up/Cura

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  • 5 months later...

Looking back through this thread I only posted a few pictures of the model village I built from these 3d printed buildings so thought I would add a few more as I was going through them today 

IMG_1538.JPG

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  • 4 weeks later...

 

Working on some London Brick retaining walls for the clubs new O gauge layout, printed these test prints up to try and get a distinct Victorian vibe, and to do some test painting on achieving that yellowy brown brick look, these are just primed at present, hope to publish my test results as I go

 

 

 

IMG_2311.JPG.a228e103054d0099aef47a7173ed9e61.JPGIMG_2310.JPG.47f95eccda0dffcc60c194ad3c085b21.JPG

 

 

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Oh, very nice! It's good to see such things not just being produced in stretcher bond.

If you're going to produce these in sections, may I suggest shifting the join over a little so it doesn't run up the middle of the columns?  Unless you're planning something like drain pipes to cover the gaps, a vertical line up the brickwork will be very obvious. Maybe up the side of the column, with a zig-zag edge above to match the brick pattern?

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26 minutes ago, Skinnylinny said:

Oh, very nice! It's good to see such things not just being produced in stretcher bond.

If you're going to produce these in sections, may I suggest shifting the join over a little so it doesn't run up the middle of the columns?  Unless you're planning something like drain pipes to cover the gaps, a vertical line up the brickwork will be very obvious. Maybe up the side of the column, with a zig-zag edge above to match the brick pattern?

Hello Linny that is indeed a good thought, I was thinking of glueing and filling every other brick, but I maybe able to stagger the bond as you suggested, helping to hide the joint more, especially as i intend to use fine filler for the mortar joints on these all being well :) 

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While im doing some painting tests to try an achieve a good look for those arched retaining walls, I have been working on knocking up a LBSCR Signal box in 7mm for our club layout and just liked the look of this lovely signal box at Crawley. We may not end up going with this box, but i'm going to print it and paint it for fun regardless.

 

I still have some detailing inside to do before printing but here is what i have so far

 

LBSCR_CRAWLEY_01.jpg.4ef4a794a040d1d74777c163bad129d5.jpgLBSCR_CRAWLEY_03.jpg.3414783dae844117cbab894f5de2a09a.jpgLBSCR_CRAWLEY_02.jpg.9899be0eed2d8244583ae446c2344f02.jpg

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First attempt at painting some london bricks for these arched retaining walls, feel they need to be browner, so working on a 2nd attempt.

 

5D20F4DF-7A8E-44F8-BD46-A7C77C0DAB76.jpeg.bd4a1dbfe51fc9d29f0a2eef62a6c954.jpeg1D4096AE-4F60-447F-AECA-B8635A8339B8.jpeg.77157ce73d3cecb99677ab421d924642.jpeg

 

 

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1 hour ago, wainwright1 said:

That looks very good to me. Almost like a section of the retaining wall on Crystal Palace.

 

All the best

Ray

Thanks Ray, funny you should say that its very much inspired by the crystal Palace retaining wall. The  2nd variation I'm currently working on has the keystone element! 

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Always difficult to judge colours when viewing on a screen (for instance I have brightness right down and contrast high to ease the strain on my eyes). But those test arches look very good to me. There is a fair amount of black and I think in reality much brickwork would be stained with soot as the Victorians burnt copious amounts of coal. But maybe more yellow (umber?) as I recall London brick is made with yellow clay.

 

I often think many models look to pristine! From memory (and memory can play tricks), I recall there was a lot of grime about when I was a child in the 50s.

 

Also, I think many models have too much relief to the bricks. Whilst sometimes the mortar can be very set back, I think most times they are almost flush with the surface of the brick and even a slight setback would hardly be noticed at 1:76 scale. I've never liked those embossed plastic brick sheets for this reason.

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1 hour ago, Alan_LSWR said:

Always difficult to judge colours when viewing on a screen (for instance I have brightness right down and contrast high to ease the strain on my eyes). But those test arches look very good to me. There is a fair amount of black and I think in reality much brickwork would be stained with soot as the Victorians burnt copious amounts of coal. But maybe more yellow (umber?) as I recall London brick is made with yellow clay.

 

I often think many models look to pristine! From memory (and memory can play tricks), I recall there was a lot of grime about when I was a child in the 50s.

 

Also, I think many models have too much relief to the bricks. Whilst sometimes the mortar can be very set back, I think most times they are almost flush with the surface of the brick and even a slight setback would hardly be noticed at 1:76 scale. I've never liked those embossed plastic brick sheets for this reason.

Thanks Alan, yes I agree its always hard to judge these things on screen, and even in reality I notice how much this model changes colours under different lighting settings, from natural, to artificial lighting!

I have just finished painting up the 2nd set of arches, and will photograph tomorrow,  however i feel this even darker now, perhaps as you suggest more Umber/yellow, which bizarrely is the base coat I use for these models, so perhaps i need to get a little less carried away with the subsequent layering coats 

 

I think you are most definitely right about the embossed brick being way to deep in a scaled reality, however I do personally think it has a certain visual appeal, and tactile nature about the embossed models, even if it isn’t scale correct :) 

 

cheers

 

Rob

 

 

 

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Related to the depth of mortar courses, the scale realisation of detail in 3D printing of some features presents a challenge. One of my projects on a road vehicle requires the creation of roller shutters. To get them to print at all means the gaps between slats need to be overscale in width and depth. Printing orientation in a home resin printer may also produce a satisfactory shutter on one side of the vehicle, but a poorly defined one on the other side. In the end, for the N scale prints, a depth of 0.167mm with gaps of 0.10mm seems to work although way over scale at 25mm and 15 mm. 

Edited by Mike Harvey
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3 hours ago, Mike Harvey said:

Related to the depth of mortar courses, the scale realisation of detail in 3D printing of some features presents a challenge. One of my projects on a road vehicle requires the creation of roller shutters. To get them to print at all means the gaps between slats need to be overscale in width and depth. Printing orientation in a home resin printer may also produce a satisfactory shutter on one side of the vehicle, but a poorly defined one on the other side. In the end, for the N scale prints, a depth of 0.167mm with gaps of 0.10mm seems to work although way over scale at 25mm and 15 mm. 

This is a good point Mike, I often find with modelling, its what looks right is best over what is realistically correct scale wise!   

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Part Two, marginally different, a bit darker, though this time i sprayed with a gloss varnish before doing the mortar to protect the brickwork, however despite several coats of Matt varnish when finished it still has a slight glossy shine, so doubt i will do that again! I think I prefer the first arches in terms of finish, and will next push a little more yellow to see how that looks possibly.

I have run out of test print walls for now, though have some ww2 St Mere Eglise buildings i printed a while back, so will have a go at doing the stonework on those next, whilst I wait for the signal box to print out.... only 2 days left!!!

 

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1 hour ago, woko said:

Part Two, marginally different, a bit darker, though this time i sprayed with a gloss varnish before doing the mortar to protect the brickwork, however despite several coats of Matt varnish when finished it still has a slight glossy shine, so doubt i will do that again! I think I prefer the first arches in terms of finish, and will next push a little more yellow to see how that looks possibly.

I have run out of test print walls for now, though have some ww2 St Mere Eglise buildings i printed a while back, so will have a go at doing the stonework on those next, whilst I wait for the signal box to print out.... only 2 days left!!!

 

3C53F892-9F2F-4A9A-8596-CD1D508AF73C.jpeg.ed1263b13a7479a8799e766dbdd5bc25.jpeg394109E4-3BF9-45A5-BA8D-F0B7EBC083EA.jpeg.2a869ae834b95e5a47b50487a93dfe3b.jpeg

That looks equally good. I better not show this to Gary, otherwise he will want to take up the arches on Crystal Palace and do them again.

The arches on Crystal Palace are actually each a single resin cast component. These are stuck together and then pieces of Slaters plasticard embossed brick card stuck over the vertical pillars and in the vee sections (Y Fronts) to complete the picture. The Slaters Plasticard was also used in the master to produce the insides and back of the arches, so the detail is quite fine. The main buildings have a skeleton of Perspex which is also overlaid with Plasticard and architectural features such as the big window mouldings and pilasters, again with brick detail, are cast in resin. Being so fine and having so much brickwork involved, it is virtually impossible to achieve the amount of painted detail variation that you have got on your samples.

One problem we have had is that different parts of the layout have been painted at different times and although using the same Humbrol paint numbers we have ended up with slightly different shades of the same colour. I am looking to finish the weathering off using matt varnish with different strengths of a small quantity of brown paint added, perhaps Track Colour, to balance it all up. I will need to do some test sampling first though.

 

All the best

Ray

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

First print of my Crawley LBSCR signal box in O gauge, Here it is primed and ready to start painting tonight. I Still need to detail out the interior. I used a mixture of FDM, and resin printing on this baby, was quite fun to make, though I have managed to knacker my fdm printer for the time being.... To many bricks :)

 

284BABDD-EBD3-473B-BD45-62741014322E.jpeg.55d41409ba88df493d20f52c6d99b125.jpeg3CC55B44-CF1F-46EF-8043-714FE9C9B0C5.jpeg.60d6f784451d128b10fd788179961d33.jpegF5929C7F-BD37-4FB6-B5ED-829CB2C7D503.jpeg.87dfc75f2894cc7709df6a116f1cd311.jpegE390C5B8-8525-4825-A044-8BC0B3F5A85F.jpeg.4c10280a91738592789f6437dfa6853f.jpeg2F6C79E8-23DD-49F5-89C6-634387234811.jpeg.1f7686beb77ce04bdddbdb80502d8f36.jpegF4E33006-ABAC-402B-9AD1-A5186BFC5894.jpeg.4e25066f59825ec5e0f00dbaa94e4de0.jpeg

 

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