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Wye Valley Dismantling a Railway mid 1960s


Welsh Signaller
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  • RMweb Gold
56 minutes ago, Welsh Signaller said:

I’ve taken advantage of the wife going out for coffee with her colleagues, and the kids being in school to lay out roughly the next instalment.

 

Ive used the waste wood from stage one to allow me to measure out with track the required widths and lengths.

 

I’m going to need two more 8ft x 4ft 12mm sheets, one as a whole for the second curve, and the second sheet cut in half to allow two 8ft x 2ft lengths that will run across the back fence, which section will have loops either side of the single lines.

 

I’m not happy with the set track curves for both lines round the corner, so I’m going to use them for the inner only to get the required radius then flexi for the other line so I can have a nice even gap around the curve.

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I'd suggest making sure you use the set track curves throughout the 180 degree bend without the small straight section in the middle of the bend, as you have the potential to get buffer locking there.

 

Make a slotted bar(s) out of some scrap wood:  I used a couple of bits of 2 x 1 and slotted it for the  respective gauge and distances between tracks.

 

You just slot this bar(s) over the inner (set track curves) and the flex track into the outer set of rail notches and it will follow the set track very nicely, giving you a curve of slightly greater radii without any dog legs.

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  • RMweb Gold
5 minutes ago, Welsh Signaller said:

I must say a huge thank you HH for your invaluable help so far ! 

 

 

Over the years, I have received much help and encouragement from other RMWeb members.

 

It's nice to be able to do the same and pass on some help and advice.

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Good Evening, no physical progress on the garden railway since the last update but work has been progressing behind the scenes.

 

I need the baseboards to remain in tip top condition for years to come, so keeping the edges/gain watertight is essential.

 

My initial plan was to firstly paint the baseboard with outdoor water resistant paint, I’d also apply this to a wooden edging strip which would then be secured to the grain side of the baseboard.

 

However, I think I’m going to source and fit a 12mm wide PVC plastic edging to the gain sides of the baseboard, then seal the top and bottom edges where the plastic meets the wood with water proof sealant to make certain no water can over time access the gains and destroy from within the wood.

 

This is the strip I think I’m going to use for all the outside baseboards.

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I’ve also been thinking about how to support the baseboards, again my initial plan was to use circular aluminium poles concreted into the ground with adaptor plates on top fo secure them to underside of the baseboards.

 

The plan remains similar to the original, but I’m going to use square poles now vice circular ones, and use two per support column instead of one set a few inches apart to ensure maximum strength and resistance to movement. 

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  • 5 weeks later...

My plan was to erect the first return loop this month, but the real railway calls - so instead I invested in a lovely Dapol / Lionheart Class 64XX Pannier in British Railways Lined green, this will be my fifth Pannier but my first green one!

 

Brought directly from Dapol, at only £250 it was to good to leave - the super low price is because the batch failed quality control, only having the bunker lining printed on one side!

 

By the time a bit of dirt is applied you’ll hardly notice the lack of lining, you could even say the loco was rushed out of Swindon before the paint shop could finish it !

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Being dragged to Ikea by the wife has it’s benefits, I picked up this glass display cabinet for only £60! 

 

Ideal to display my collection safe in the knowledge they won’t get dusty or broken, there’s also a facility to add a light which I may take up at a later date.

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