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London Road LNWR Coal Tank kit 4mm


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  • RMweb Gold

I've added handrail knobs, chimney, dome and safety valve to the boiler but i discovered i was a couple of parts missing in the blower valve and sandbox operating linkages for both sides so i've been unable to complete the sandboxes and the rest of the detailing. John at LRM is very kindly sending the missing items to me.

The ejector pipe is still loose, i've added some pipework inside the cab from it, also added the wheels after a bit of a faff sorting out the gearbox/motor. It's all very tight but in the end i used an underslung mount with a small Mitsumi motor, the first one i tried the worm (which is the lowest point) was just fouling the trackwork at turnouts. I'll post a photo later, tested it with some trailing leads and it all works nicely. Once i've added the brake shoes and pull rods i'll sort out the pickups.

IMAG4081.jpg.20521adfdedcbcdfd89c58a150a14742.jpg

 

Cab roof is still loose as i want to paint everything before securing it.

 

Dave

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

The few parts i was missing arrived very promptly from John at LRM so they were duly added to the body, the roof and ejector pipe are still loose until its painted. Brakes finished off on the chassis and after re reading through the destructions i think that's pretty much about it.

 

IMAG4116.jpg.1877a4795b9b81ac9fc39edf9784ff55.jpg

IMAG4117.jpg.b9632e7bca88649435851a0d098961f2.jpg

 

 

I will add some weight into the boiler and side tanks now sort some pickups on the chassis and get it cleaned up ready for priming while the weather is being considerate. i have found a photo of a Coal Tank with push pull gear so i'll try and make up a representation of that too.

 

Dave

Edited by k22009
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  • RMweb Gold

Got the vacuum regulator and hoses attached, all cleaned and left to dry overnight. Wafted over with Halford's rattle can primer this morning.

I'll leave it to harden now for a day or two before the top coat, i can paint the cab then and wheels , brake gear etc too.

 

IMAG4121.jpg.1c825ffe7c1d7922e27f52d82965fa00.jpg

 

Dave

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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks, i do try to ignore the plethora of other kits in the to do cupboards :devil: this is what has surfaced up next. But, only after the Coal Tank is all painted. 

 

IMAG4122.jpg.cd85dc11f594477bfdfcee680fb564a6.jpg

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  • RMweb Gold
8 hours ago, John_Hughes said:

Very nice! On my own I can just hear the coupling rods barely touching the brake linkage when they're at the bottom, but I imagine you managed to avoid that trap!

At first stab mine too just clipped so i very slightly angled the brake hanger rods down so the coupling rods would then clear.

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15 hours ago, k22009 said:

At first stab mine too just clipped so i very slightly angled the brake hanger rods down so the coupling rods would then clear.

 

I think I just need to run a file along the top of the brake linkage; the contact between it and the coupling rods is minimal anyway, just a few thou; it certainly doesn't affect the running, which is excellent.

 

Can I ask how you handled the rear carrying axle? I ended up mounting it in Gibson's sprung hornblocks rather than as a pony truck, but John now makes a proper radial arrangement, and I had wondered about trying that. In the end it seemed too much trouble!

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On 28/06/2019 at 16:31, k22009 said:

I have found a photo of a Coal Tank with push pull gear so i'll try and make up a representation of that too.

Not on a Coal Tank, but ...

Motor Train Fittings #2.jpg

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  • RMweb Gold
4 hours ago, John_Hughes said:

Can I ask how you handled the rear carrying axle? I ended up mounting it in Gibson's sprung hornblocks rather than as a pony truck, but John now makes a proper radial arrangement, and I had wondered about trying that. In the end it seemed too much trouble!

 

John, i just weighted the pony truck as supplied in the kit on the top with some lead strip, used 2mm bearings filed almost smooth on the outer face and added a nylon washer between the frames and wheels. It swings enough for the curves on my layout which are around 3'-0 radius. I've not added any side control or springing.

IMAG4229.jpg

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19 hours ago, k22009 said:

 

John, i just weighted the pony truck as supplied in the kit on the top with some lead strip, used 2mm bearings filed almost smooth on the outer face and added a nylon washer between the frames and wheels. It swings enough for the curves on my layout which are around 3'-0 radius. I've not added any side control or springing.

IMAG4229.jpg

 

The washers are presumably to stop the wheels shorting against the frame on curves? I tried that route myself but found that when the loco was reversing, the pony truck tended to drift to one side or the other, and it just didn't look right.

 

I suppose that's why the instructions suggest adding a spring to centre it, but the hornblocks seemed less of a faff, and the resulting chassis will even cope with the Peco small radius points on my shunting plank, which came as a pleasant surprise.

 

Did you use the fold-up buffer-beams as supplied? I ended up making new ones out of wood and using the etch just for the face.

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58 minutes ago, John_Hughes said:

Did you use the fold-up buffer-beams as supplied? I ended up making new ones out of wood and using the etch just for the face.

 

John, yes I did use the etched buffers i found them ok, i soldered the front one with the frame extensions to the boiler assembly so that it was removable as Jol had done, it was only the resin boiler i ditched. I'm not a fan of the stuff although i can see it makes for a simple fix all detailed ready to plonk in place, but it's a cop out in my eyes and is an easy way to to take some engineering out of kits.  With some kits you might as well use a good rtr body as there's little difference.

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22 hours ago, k22009 said:

 

John, yes I did use the etched buffers i found them ok, i soldered the front one with the frame extensions to the boiler assembly so that it was removable as Jol had done, it was only the resin boiler i ditched. I'm not a fan of the stuff although i can see it makes for a simple fix all detailed ready to plonk in place, but it's a cop out in my eyes and is an easy way to to take some engineering out of kits.  With some kits you might as well use a good rtr body as there's little difference.

 

I agree with you about the boiler. I have no absolute objections to the Milky Bar type - indeed, I used the one in the London Road Jinty with no trouble at all - but this one just didn't cut the mustard, so like you I replaced it.

 

Being inherently lazy I just knocked up a quick replacement design in Sketchup and let Shapeways do the rest, giving me more room for the motor and gearbox as well as for a little more weight, though those big side tanks do help.

90015298_Coaltankboiler.jpg.b960a774aa74e518bd6d2715f4d1dced.jpg

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