boeing7572t6 Posted June 12, 2019 Share Posted June 12, 2019 Hi, The title says it all really, I am trying to rescue an incomplete kit by GJH of one of these wagons. Can’t find a drawing anywhere, anyone able to assist? Bob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonhall Posted June 12, 2019 Share Posted June 12, 2019 These were only rebodied BR 21t hoppers with a slice taken off the top. Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
boeing7572t6 Posted June 13, 2019 Author Share Posted June 13, 2019 Thank you Jon, I knew they were rebuilds but not the original wagon source. Following on from that, can anyone point me at a drawing for the BR 21T hopper or scan the instructions from the Parkside PS104 kit which would give me some idea of the chassis layout. Thanks again. Bob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted June 13, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 13, 2019 Hi Bob, If you go here - https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=24&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwj82-3XxubiAhV9QxUIHQnXDLQ4FBAWMAN6BAgAEAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwebsite.rumneymodels.co.uk%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2016%2F06%2FB.28_21T_Hopper_Wagon_Chassis_Instructions.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0T8TkSfbufep2izfd-avcg Then you get a good guide to help you with the chassis. Before the kit or RTR model came on the market I used the Airfix/GMR 21t hopper as a basis for my Tope models. For the conversion I cut off the top reinforcing edge and kept it to reuse. I then took 3mm off the height of the hopper itself. Then stick the top reinforcing edge back onto the hopper. Spill plates were made from 30th plasticard. Thanks Phil H Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
boeing7572t6 Posted June 13, 2019 Author Share Posted June 13, 2019 (edited) Phil That’s absolutely brilliant!! I can now press ahead with the chassis and running gear separately from the body, paint them and then mate the two together. One final question, what is the height of the top of the bunker above the top edge of the sole-bar. Are you able to measure? I work in 7mm but can easily convert a 4mm dimension. Thanks for your help Bob Edited June 13, 2019 by boeing7572t6 Speeeling Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted June 13, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 13, 2019 Hi Bob, No worries Wagons Roll by Bob Wallance in Rail 186 (October 28 - November 10 1992) says the sides were cut down by 460mm. If you are a DEMU member - the drawings are in Compendium 1 Thanks Phil H Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike hughes Posted June 13, 2019 Share Posted June 13, 2019 I haven’t any luck finding the instructions. What I can remember you had to glue a plastic strip along the top of the solebars to form the channel, then the body will sit on top of the running chassis. The couple of pics are the rebodied 21t coal hopper which are the basis for the tope. They sit on Parkside chassis. The GJH kit I built used earlier style chassis solebars. Shame the body supplied in the kit didn’t have the bottom chutes as most Topes still had them. Not sure in the kit there was plastic rod for the vac pipe that ran one side https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brhoppertope - for photos Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
boeing7572t6 Posted June 13, 2019 Author Share Posted June 13, 2019 Mike I’m most grateful for your efforts. I think I’m now getting a feel for what is required. I am now sure most of the chassis is missing, but with Phil’s help I am confident I can scratch build the chassis. This wagon is not from my normal modelling period but I am 2000 miles away from my layout so this is an interesting diversion. If I get it finished I will post a pic. My thanks to you and Phil. Bob 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted June 13, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 13, 2019 Hi both, You should have pm from me. Hope this all helps! I'm about to start doing some in N/2mm - a lot more fiddly! Mike you are correct - no bit of plastic rod to make the brake pipe from in either the 7mm or 4mm Parkside kits. Thanks Phil H 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike hughes Posted June 13, 2019 Share Posted June 13, 2019 I’ve found a photo of the GJH Tope I made. Hopefully somewhere took a photo of one of my ones (done my own body to fit Parkside coal hopper chassis) michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonhall Posted June 13, 2019 Share Posted June 13, 2019 I hope the 7mm parkside instructions are better than the 4mm ones - if you follow the instructions something goes badly wrong when you apply the brakes using on of the handles! Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted June 13, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 13, 2019 hi Jon, Yes - I remembered this after listening to you. I went home and altered all of the Parkside 4mm kits I had built and my Tope conversions. Thanks fot the reminder though! I must check when I do the 2mm/N ones that the brake linkages are set correctly. Only just ordered the Dapol hoppers - so could be a bit of a wait and see situation. Phil H Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted July 27, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 27, 2021 Hi all, Seems like only yesterday since I said I would be doing the Tope in N/2mm! Anyway - I did do the chopping and changing, just not done the paint yet as it is one of eight that I am working on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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