Goods yard surfacing problem

[spikey]

My talent for poor forward planning has resulted in a problem with the goods yard.  Having just completed the ballasting with Woodland Scenics Medium size, I'm left with very nice ballast shoulders which are something like 2mm above ground level.  However, what I want to end up with is the yard surface level with the top of the ballast so that it blends into it without a step.

 

This is 00, by the way; there are two main areas of surfacing to be done, each measuring roughly 15cm x 70cm, and the existing surface is a thin layer of polyfilla over cork over ply.  All I can think of with which to build up the ground level is either more filler or textured paint, by which I mean Wilko's emulsion tester pots with chinchilla sand stirred in, but I have reservations about both of those.  I'm not confident of my ability to get a nice smooth surface with filler without resorting to sanding, which I can't see working well at the boundary between filler and ballast shoulder.  And I suspect that I'm going to have a cracking problem as a 2mm-ish layer of emulsion + sand dries out - if it ever does.

 

While I'm doing some trials with both filler and the paint mixture, can anyone suggest alternatives that I should be considering?  I want to end up with a more-or-less smooth surface - smoother than say Treemendous Earth Powder sieved onto dilute PVA. 

[Stubby47]

More cork sheet?

Edited June 12, 2019 by Stubby47

[sharris]

Balsa will give you a smooth surface and is easy to shape. 1/16" which is about 1.6mm or 3/32" (about 2.4mm), are the closest old fashioned thicknesses if you can't find metric. 

 

[Mick Bonwick]

A layer of DAS modelling clay can be created by rolling out a sheet of the appropriate depth (borrow a rolling pin) and cutting it size and shape. It can be stuck to the existing surface  using PVA.

[spikey]

2 hours ago, Stubby47 said:

More cork sheet?

 

 Nope.  That would (a) be too thick and (b) give me a surface that looks like cork sheet.

 

2 hours ago, sharris said:

Balsa will give you a smooth surface and is easy to shape. 1/16" which is about 1.6mm or 3/32" (about 2.4mm), are the closest old fashioned thicknesses if you can't find metric. 

 

 

Good idea, but I'd have to fill the grain and besides I'd have to use filler to blend the balsa to the ballast

 

1 hour ago, Mick Bonwick said:

A layer of DAS modelling clay can be created by rolling out a sheet of the appropriate depth (borrow a rolling pin) and cutting it size and shape. It can be stuck to the existing surface  using PVA.

 

Ahah!  How thin a layer could I get away with using, assuming that I could roll it out to a consistent thickness by using a couple of thin strips of wood as depth guides?

Edited June 12, 2019 by spikey

[sb67]

Spikey have you looked at Chris Nevards work? He uses DAS a lot and the effects are fantastic, I used some for my yard here. I didn't get it perfectly smooth but I kind of liked that.

 

[spikey]

15 minutes ago, sb67 said:

Spikey have you looked at Chris Nevards work? He uses DAS a lot and the effects are fantastic, I used some for my yard here. I didn't get it perfectly smooth but I kind of liked that.

 

Cheers mister.  I like the look of that!  Couple of questions - can you give me a clue how thin you managed to get this stuff without it cracking?  And where might I find Chris Nevard's work (and preferably some tips from him)?

[Mick Bonwick]

1 hour ago, spikey said:

Ahah!  How thin a layer could I get away with using, assuming that I could roll it out to a consistent thickness by using a couple of thin strips of wood as depth guides?

 

I've managed to achieve around 2mm. Not absolutely consistent, but near enough. Unilke Steve above, I don't have any photographs of the layout upon which I used it.

[sb67]

Here's the link to he DAS clay. Here it's used as cinders ballast but the method is similar. http://nevardmedia.blogspot.com/2011/08/creating-effect-of-ash-ballast.html His blog is a mine of info, I also think there might be a thread on here somewhere about using DAS. 

I got it pretty thin prob 2 or 3 mm  but I did do it in stages and any joins can be smeared over by wetting the clay. Texture can be added by stippling with an old toothbrush whilst it's wet or it can be painted and texture added after.

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/98889-goods-yard-das-clay-question/

That's a link to a thread on here. 

Hope that helps.

Steve.

Edited June 12, 2019 by sb67

[spikey]

Mick and Steve, thank you very much indeed.  Off now to do some further reading at those links, but I've already noted that if you can wet the stuff and smear it over joins, that sounds like it won't be a problem blending it into the ballast shoulders

[sb67]

That shouldn't be a problem, look forward to seeing how you get on, can you practice on a smaller area first?

Take your time looking at that blog, it's all really inspiring.

Steve.

Edited June 12, 2019 by sb67

[nickwood]

It will almost certainly crack as it dries whatever the thickness. You just rub small amounts of clay into the cracks once it has dried and smooth it over with a wet knife or finger. If you really need to you can sand it once dry.