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Class 101 buffers


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Well here's a preserved one at Sherinhgham:

 

1897279538_101SheringhamRMWeb.jpg.f40230bab2fcaf240f7d83f8ada997be.jpg

 

And this is what I did.  Used the buffers from MJT / Dart Castings referenced above; drilled holes in the buffer beams big enough to accept the peg on the back of the buffer, but didn't push the buffers right in - I used a temporary spacer from a piece of 60 thou plastikard with a notch cut in it to make sure each buffer was pushed in to the same amount while the glue dried.  When the glue had dried, made the 'ribs' of the extensions from small pieces of plastikard, glued either side of the buffer's peg.

 

IMG_1879.jpg.85f87465a9a086b4fa0763824fdde315.jpg

 

I must admit the lamp irons are a bit of a simplification as I couldn't think of a way of making the 'horseshoe' brackets consistently and robustly; I drilled a hole down through the buffer pegs, and made the lamp irons from brass wire filed flat on the front & rear faces.  The pipes and jumper cables are made up from different grades of wire.

 

IMG_1883.jpg.2ea12904baccbbdbc94292dceaeeefad.jpg

 

I don't think it looks too bad, although on reflection the buffer heads might be on the small side?

 

IMG_2014.jpg.a6b848e98bd4ebadcec79c4aa9095df5.jpg

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Looks fantastic, 31A.  Well done.

 

Given me inspiration to dig out my two old Limbys.  I have NSE and RR ones - Lima bodies on Hornby chassis.

 

I believe Shawplan have made replacement front windscreens to correct the Lima moulding. 

 

https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5834    Has anyone tried these?

Edited by cravensdmufan
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2 hours ago, 31A said:

Well here's a preserved one at Sherinhgham:

 

1897279538_101SheringhamRMWeb.jpg.f40230bab2fcaf240f7d83f8ada997be.jpg

 

And this is what I did.  Used the buffers from MJT / Dart Castings referenced above; drilled holes in the buffer beams big enough to accept the peg on the back of the buffer, but didn't push the buffers right in - I used a temporary spacer from a piece of 60 thou plastikard with a notch cut in it to make sure each buffer was pushed in to the same amount while the glue dried.  When the glue had dried, made the 'ribs' of the extensions from small pieces of plastikard, glued either side of the buffer's peg.

 

IMG_1879.jpg.85f87465a9a086b4fa0763824fdde315.jpg

 

I must admit the lamp irons are a bit of a simplification as I couldn't think of a way of making the 'horseshoe' brackets consistently and robustly; I drilled a hole down through the buffer pegs, and made the lamp irons from brass wire filed flat on the front & rear faces.  The pipes and jumper cables are made up from different grades of wire.

 

IMG_1883.jpg.2ea12904baccbbdbc94292dceaeeefad.jpg

 

I don't think it looks too bad, although on reflection the buffer heads might be on the small side?

 

IMG_2014.jpg.a6b848e98bd4ebadcec79c4aa9095df5.jpg

Looks brilliant - no I don't think the buffer heads look too small.  They were never as big as Oleos.

 

Porky Mane's photo of the two different types buffered together is interesting.  I guess BR changed the buffers using different types over the years, but I don't remember seeing the larger Oleos with the slimmer shanks on the fronts of the units.  But IMO your "chunky" Dart Castings ones look better anyway!

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Glad you like it, Vivian!  It was really a token DMU on my layout until the Bachmann Cravens units arrived (it isn't really very suitable for the location) but when they did come I thought I'd play around with it a bit mainly to make a 2-car DMBS+DTCL and improve the look of the engines etc.  As well as the front windows, I realise it shouldn't have the gutters above the side windows in that livery but didn't want to get involved in a full repaint if I'd tried to remove them!

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Okay I'll take the bate.... I've been planning to do DMU buffers for a good while but there was always the problem of the stool the buffer fits onto. The stool differs between the types of unit so I would need to make various angled stools or make one that can be filed to the correct angle and length for the buffer to fit onto. As there seems to be more interest now I'll look at it over the summer. I do have a drawing for the buffer housing in the above photos so that bit will be right and can confirm the buffer head diameter should be 18''.

 

Dave Franks

LMS

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