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7 minutes ago, Gibbo675 said:

If its sunny go and play outside !

 

Too hot.  Going to watch the F1 qualifying with some tall cold drinks.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

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  • RMweb Gold
37 minutes ago, SRman said:

Ha! Come to Australia and find out what 'hot' really means!! :jester::jester::jester:

 

Indeed - I spent a few weeks on the ranges at Woomera in 2002.  It did get rather warm.

 

03D6A3F8-8475-4EDC-BB5E-42C6A78855DC.jpeg.183207b9897365b5c369730e5347ce68.jpeg

 

43CD738F-BF9F-4732-B79C-5279A693270F.jpeg.ae42851c6eeee21e87fe2257e6bb45b8.jpeg

 

Cheers

 

Darius

Edited by Darius43
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White lining and other decals applied. I should stress that the coach numbers are totally fictitious - using decals that I had to hand.

666E5678-AE80-490C-B7D5-B1147B706B33.jpeg.0a277acb5b0484f2a9820449379e0de0.jpeg

 

7447A4EB-6AEF-48D9-9E40-27C2359AAAD8.jpeg.ee7e7c1b61f2817d794511893a528721.jpeg

 

82137A15-C53C-4B4E-B020-DCEEC66098A1.jpeg.a8c8adb77b42f7f9980d6f564a31704a.jpeg

 

E8E9AF31-9112-4CD9-82F8-93F4506CD4EF.jpeg.8903789e5b82e1bb33779e24a3da14bb.jpeg

 

Cheers

 

Darius

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2 minutes ago, Darius43 said:

White lining and other decals applied. I should stress that the coach numbers are totally fictitious - using decals that I had to hand.

666E5678-AE80-490C-B7D5-B1147B706B33.jpeg.0a277acb5b0484f2a9820449379e0de0.jpeg

 

7447A4EB-6AEF-48D9-9E40-27C2359AAAD8.jpeg.ee7e7c1b61f2817d794511893a528721.jpeg

 

82137A15-C53C-4B4E-B020-DCEEC66098A1.jpeg.a8c8adb77b42f7f9980d6f564a31704a.jpeg

 

E8E9AF31-9112-4CD9-82F8-93F4506CD4EF.jpeg.8903789e5b82e1bb33779e24a3da14bb.jpeg

 

Cheers

 

Darius

Hi Darius,

 

What transfers do you use for the lining and how do you get them so straight ?

 

Better still do you paint coaches for others [me] ?!?!

 

Gibbo.

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16 minutes ago, Gibbo675 said:

Hi Darius,

 

What transfers do you use for the lining and how do you get them so straight ?

 

Better still do you paint coaches for others [me] ?!?!

 

Gibbo.

 

Hi Gibbo,

 

I used Fox Transfers lining decals and use a small paintbrush, scraps of kitchen paper and a blade to get them as straight as I can - plus a judicious amount of swearing.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

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Is it too late to open out the cab windows? They look a bit on the small side. I'm not sure which way they need opening, but certainly the tops should be higher to the gutter, and maybe out to the edge of the cab front?

At the minute the effect is very odd.

 

Nice to see a build of something a bit different.

 

Andy G

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Far too few of Charlie's EMU kits ever seem to see the light of day.  My own 304 sits well down the roundtuit pile - many much easier jobs in front of it - but if mine turns out half as well as this, I'll be well pleased.  I agree about the cab windows, they create a sad-eyed effect, but the fault is with the kit and nothing to do with your own work.

 

Look forward to seeing how the build continues.....

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9 hours ago, uax6 said:

Is it too late to open out the cab windows? They look a bit on the small side. I'm not sure which way they need opening, but certainly the tops should be higher to the gutter, and maybe out to the edge of the cab front?

At the minute the effect is very odd.

 

Nice to see a build of something a bit different.

 

Andy G

 

Hi Andy,

 

A few years ago I built the MTK kit of the Class 304 EMU and modified the white metal cab end cab windows to try and capture the look of these units.  The cab window profile is quite subtle and I overdid the re-shaping and, to my mind, “lost the look”.

 

Comparing the DC Kit cab to photos they are not exactly right, but for me they capture “the look” and so I left them as is rather than try and re-shape them and run the risk of ruining the model.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

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8 hours ago, Northmoor said:

Far too few of Charlie's EMU kits ever seem to see the light of day.  My own 304 sits well down the roundtuit pile - many much easier jobs in front of it - but if mine turns out half as well as this, I'll be well pleased.  I agree about the cab windows, they create a sad-eyed effect, but the fault is with the kit and nothing to do with your own work.

 

Look forward to seeing how the build continues.....

 

Don't about the EMUs but I can remember when the 101 kit was announced (think it might have been his first?) and I snapped one up. Whether I'll ever build it i don't know but I have a soft spot for the 101s!

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7 hours ago, BernardTPM said:

You might find that painting the inner edges of the window openings black might help. The real things appear to have some kind of rubber beading round them.

Hi Bernard,

 

I did exactly what you have suggested with a Blue Pullman I cut and shut from the Triang model and the trick works a treat especially when the Wills flush glazing was fitted.

 

Gibbo.

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Which pantograph to use?

 

the one that came with the kit (left) or a Marklin HO on (right).

 

 

 

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Neither is truly accurate: the kit supplied one has the correct looking base but the rest is awful; the Marklin one looks better but the base is wrong.

 

Perhaps I can combine the two...

 

Cheers

 

Darius

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Hi Darius,

 

Here is what I did with my Somerfeldt pantographs atop of my Trix Bodied AC electrics.

 

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I cut the insulated feet off and then made up extended frame sections to which the insulated feet were reattached. Not brilliant but better than original !

 

Gibbo.

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The base of the supplied pantograph is too modern, being based on the 1980s Brecknell-Willis High-Speed design, suitable for Mk.3 units, for instance, but not Mk.1. These are older units, but were rebuilt and fitted with Stone-Fairveley pantographs at around the same time as these units were built, so they're pretty much the same.

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8 hours ago, BernardTPM said:

The base of the supplied pantograph is too modern, being based on the 1980s Brecknell-Willis High-Speed design, suitable for Mk.3 units, for instance, but not Mk.1. These are older units, but were rebuilt and fitted with Stone-Fairveley pantographs at around the same time as these units were built, so they're pretty much the same.

 

Thanks Bernard - how about this?

 

D6765260-B937-430C-B8DF-1297E4D4D8D2.jpeg.4c22ccdcf9898b44ec32409c7ed2565d.jpeg

 

4018F894-463A-4C4B-A31A-A9332B16157D.jpeg.617766b175cdd4fd03791ec60e6cc1b1.jpeg

 

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The chassis sag is due to the metal Bachmann motor housing.  Once the interior is completed I plan to install a centre body to chassis screw fixing that should straighten things out.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

Edited by Darius43
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Personally I found the Trix Stone-faively pantograph looked good but works remarkably well. I had them fitted to my Trix AL1 fleet that was used on the New Annington layout which had OHLE. Never had a problem with them.

 

The main thing that puts me off these kits is the fiddly bit of sticking door hinges and handles on all in line. How did you manage that? I've got a 2 car DMMU to finish one day! I reckon it may be easier to use Bachmann or the other firm's suburban coaches and cut them to fit!

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It's a shame the hinges aren't moulded onto the sections. I know as it stands that wouldn't work as some joins are on the hinge side, but it would have only meant a slight change at the design stage to create the sub sections always joining on the 'opening' side of the door.

 

The revised base looks more like it. Well done Darius. These units (along with the 302s) were once so familiar to me.

Edited by BernardTPM
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