Jump to content

Recommended Posts

7 minutes ago, Gibbo675 said:

If its sunny go and play outside !

 

Too hot.  Going to watch the F1 qualifying with some tall cold drinks.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

  • Funny 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ha! Come to Australia and find out what 'hot' really means!! :jester::jester::jester:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
37 minutes ago, SRman said:

 

Indeed - I spent a few weeks on the ranges at Woomera in 2002.  It did get rather warm.

 

03D6A3F8-8475-4EDC-BB5E-42C6A78855DC.jpeg.183207b9897365b5c369730e5347ce68.jpeg

 

43CD738F-BF9F-4732-B79C-5279A693270F.jpeg.ae42851c6eeee21e87fe2257e6bb45b8.jpeg

 

Cheers

 

Darius

Edited by Darius43
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

White lining and other decals applied. I should stress that the coach numbers are totally fictitious - using decals that I had to hand.

666E5678-AE80-490C-B7D5-B1147B706B33.jpeg.0a277acb5b0484f2a9820449379e0de0.jpeg

 

7447A4EB-6AEF-48D9-9E40-27C2359AAAD8.jpeg.ee7e7c1b61f2817d794511893a528721.jpeg

 

82137A15-C53C-4B4E-B020-DCEEC66098A1.jpeg.a8c8adb77b42f7f9980d6f564a31704a.jpeg

 

E8E9AF31-9112-4CD9-82F8-93F4506CD4EF.jpeg.8903789e5b82e1bb33779e24a3da14bb.jpeg

 

Cheers

 

Darius

  • Like 12
  • Craftsmanship/clever 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, Gibbo675 said:

Hi Darius,

 

What transfers do you use for the lining and how do you get them so straight ?

 

Better still do you paint coaches for others [me] ?!?!

 

Gibbo.

 

Hi Gibbo,

 

I used Fox Transfers lining decals and use a small paintbrush, scraps of kitchen paper and a blade to get them as straight as I can - plus a judicious amount of swearing.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wire handrails added.

 

9CBBE769-C5D7-412D-82E9-04B6DFED52A6.jpeg.c36048add78570b55e5added80f071fe.jpeg

 

154D6425-BB9E-4AB3-9F37-C1C14425F8A3.jpeg.98c9372a2d0d7da9606546237f4ba43a.jpeg

 

Cheers

 

Darius

  • Like 4
  • Craftsmanship/clever 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jumper cables, buffers etc. added.

 

391B9BF4-D66C-4432-B6E1-59A725C02483.jpeg.73d465e0e53ea6a754e4f22ca3da21e3.jpeg

 

090EF876-A369-44D0-8EC4-0B881D00C6E3.jpeg.81c23d5add242bfcce51eb5f9016d457.jpeg

 

E683004A-6CCC-44D4-AAAA-0E9F766C2FC2.jpeg.595a392156d8e0de3e2cd85dc86c3e52.jpeg

 

D30DD504-4B9F-4E12-943A-6F5DA7D03D1D.jpeg.5d4b89e04c5d56256f1b3ec9e70d7927.jpeg

 

879A5056-D39B-48DC-8731-4E5E8515DDB1.jpeg.0356816ff2f5a660b0c9e2e183f076a4.jpeg

 

Cheers

 

Darius

  • Like 13
  • Craftsmanship/clever 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Etched door grab handles added along with more front end details and destination boards.

 

BC61851C-E623-4B38-9A68-EAABDE2F88AE.jpeg.43810ace064a20c14ef98276903df235.jpeg

 

2002E436-5AB9-44F6-B469-E72E7D21654B.jpeg.6d4d3035884076be740fce826def4dd5.jpeg

 

EDA9D38C-E324-425B-B0D3-5D480CE9DD14.jpeg.2846302e27cb86e39e598573960572e9.jpeg

 

9FC342F7-2568-4BFB-8377-40F1835B2F31.jpeg.4ea82bc795ecebec4d163c6043960680.jpeg

 

Cheers

 

Darius

  • Like 8
  • Craftsmanship/clever 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is it too late to open out the cab windows? They look a bit on the small side. I'm not sure which way they need opening, but certainly the tops should be higher to the gutter, and maybe out to the edge of the cab front?

At the minute the effect is very odd.

 

Nice to see a build of something a bit different.

 

Andy G

  • Agree 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 minutes ago, uax6 said:

Is it too late to open out the cab windows? 

 

Yes.

  • Funny 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Far too few of Charlie's EMU kits ever seem to see the light of day.  My own 304 sits well down the roundtuit pile - many much easier jobs in front of it - but if mine turns out half as well as this, I'll be well pleased.  I agree about the cab windows, they create a sad-eyed effect, but the fault is with the kit and nothing to do with your own work.

 

Look forward to seeing how the build continues.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, uax6 said:

Is it too late to open out the cab windows? They look a bit on the small side. I'm not sure which way they need opening, but certainly the tops should be higher to the gutter, and maybe out to the edge of the cab front?

At the minute the effect is very odd.

 

Nice to see a build of something a bit different.

 

Andy G

 

Hi Andy,

 

A few years ago I built the MTK kit of the Class 304 EMU and modified the white metal cab end cab windows to try and capture the look of these units.  The cab window profile is quite subtle and I overdid the re-shaping and, to my mind, “lost the look”.

 

Comparing the DC Kit cab to photos they are not exactly right, but for me they capture “the look” and so I left them as is rather than try and re-shape them and run the risk of ruining the model.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Northmoor said:

Far too few of Charlie's EMU kits ever seem to see the light of day.  My own 304 sits well down the roundtuit pile - many much easier jobs in front of it - but if mine turns out half as well as this, I'll be well pleased.  I agree about the cab windows, they create a sad-eyed effect, but the fault is with the kit and nothing to do with your own work.

 

Look forward to seeing how the build continues.....

 

Don't about the EMUs but I can remember when the 101 kit was announced (think it might have been his first?) and I snapped one up. Whether I'll ever build it i don't know but I have a soft spot for the 101s!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You might find that painting the inner edges of the window openings black might help. The real things appear to have some kind of rubber beading round them.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, BernardTPM said:

You might find that painting the inner edges of the window openings black might help. The real things appear to have some kind of rubber beading round them.

Hi Bernard,

 

I did exactly what you have suggested with a Blue Pullman I cut and shut from the Triang model and the trick works a treat especially when the Wills flush glazing was fitted.

 

Gibbo.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cab windows picked out in matt black - Humbrol enamel applied with the end of a cocktail stick.

 

BF762511-4FEE-4A4A-80F3-3D22214DFFD0.jpeg.cf785c91f66daa2b2fb0f630a8804ac7.jpeg

 

3F648403-C298-4DF1-95F8-F41674486B95.jpeg.d8bc7604a3c7da36ffe5cc1df09016f8.jpeg

 

Cheers

 

Darius

  • Like 7
  • Craftsmanship/clever 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Window glazing fixed in place.

 

39653868-67B7-4F86-AF26-A3C420A1A3EE.jpeg.a3125d7e25863a54d7dc23dd089e314f.jpeg

 

212181B8-3B77-4454-BA18-F0B8F7D5FB8B.jpeg.039c0c016381d5163d48c1784e892aec.jpeg

 

82B6801C-0307-4F92-8916-CE4EE7B77374.jpeg.c29041fb6aaf777eb7571537712bcde8.jpeg

 

E7FC2387-3428-4750-9882-BAC910A54753.jpeg.656cee094b7828c2c3060de547f9b8b2.jpeg

 

Interiors next.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

  • Like 7
  • Craftsmanship/clever 9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Which pantograph to use?

 

the one that came with the kit (left) or a Marklin HO on (right).

 

 

 

C5D9E248-826D-4E1E-8882-5BF10AE8648E.jpeg.18896fb9ea8d44a3e832f6ea3774c1fc.jpeg

 

2907EAC6-56FB-4CC7-843F-0DDD6A538768.jpeg.0cb75a28b04394a1c1575bc12befbc6c.jpeg

 

C95274C1-F7ED-4688-93F8-862156F7A524.jpeg.27c7c2117bc56da616dcfadb70a7037c.jpeg

 

Neither is truly accurate: the kit supplied one has the correct looking base but the rest is awful; the Marklin one looks better but the base is wrong.

 

Perhaps I can combine the two...

 

Cheers

 

Darius

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Darius,

 

Here is what I did with my Somerfeldt pantographs atop of my Trix Bodied AC electrics.

 

1884692268_DSCF07461.JPG.c80ba63c36a0d373054862c42874f990.JPG

I cut the insulated feet off and then made up extended frame sections to which the insulated feet were reattached. Not brilliant but better than original !

 

Gibbo.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pantographs combined.

 

DE22643C-F112-4765-9CAC-E5860DD7A0F5.jpeg.b3902e38e3fd3da74b0405e936a65949.jpeg

 

B36EF3D6-B9B3-4A49-B474-D9F2AA521642.jpeg.1bdbf1d9bc432617ecb4754b00f37c20.jpeg

 

6C4AA724-549C-4599-9558-08E93E4737FE.jpeg.c57a31d04311dd61c098583b411a2f7e.jpeg

 

Cheers

 

Darius

  • Like 3
  • Craftsmanship/clever 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The base of the supplied pantograph is too modern, being based on the 1980s Brecknell-Willis High-Speed design, suitable for Mk.3 units, for instance, but not Mk.1. These are older units, but were rebuilt and fitted with Stone-Fairveley pantographs at around the same time as these units were built, so they're pretty much the same.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, BernardTPM said:

The base of the supplied pantograph is too modern, being based on the 1980s Brecknell-Willis High-Speed design, suitable for Mk.3 units, for instance, but not Mk.1. These are older units, but were rebuilt and fitted with Stone-Fairveley pantographs at around the same time as these units were built, so they're pretty much the same.

 

Thanks Bernard - how about this?

 

D6765260-B937-430C-B8DF-1297E4D4D8D2.jpeg.4c22ccdcf9898b44ec32409c7ed2565d.jpeg

 

4018F894-463A-4C4B-A31A-A9332B16157D.jpeg.617766b175cdd4fd03791ec60e6cc1b1.jpeg

 

2574B602-BD2F-4456-A703-A8D4103DCE77.jpeg.65a330f27be6678ab1abe5c7c37d16b4.jpeg

 

5B59FF4A-31DD-46A8-9CDE-D4B9001D4012.jpeg.926802af82a8c8a05722afdfcd7909af.jpeg

 

The chassis sag is due to the metal Bachmann motor housing.  Once the interior is completed I plan to install a centre body to chassis screw fixing that should straighten things out.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

Edited by Darius43
  • Like 8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Personally I found the Trix Stone-faively pantograph looked good but works remarkably well. I had them fitted to my Trix AL1 fleet that was used on the New Annington layout which had OHLE. Never had a problem with them.

 

The main thing that puts me off these kits is the fiddly bit of sticking door hinges and handles on all in line. How did you manage that? I've got a 2 car DMMU to finish one day! I reckon it may be easier to use Bachmann or the other firm's suburban coaches and cut them to fit!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

It's a shame the hinges aren't moulded onto the sections. I know as it stands that wouldn't work as some joins are on the hinge side, but it would have only meant a slight change at the design stage to create the sub sections always joining on the 'opening' side of the door.

 

The revised base looks more like it. Well done Darius. These units (along with the 302s) were once so familiar to me.

Edited by BernardTPM
  • Agree 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.