Milliput, an alternative?

[wychcan]

I’m using Milliput for filling and ‘building up’ on models, but I would like to use another product (if it exists) for much finer / thinner parts of a model, ie; small holes?

Does anyone have any suggestions, please?

Nigel

[hayfield]

I use Green Squadron filler and I thin it with Humbrol  Liquid Poly, then leave it 24 hours to set hard before sanding

[Geep7]

I use Revel Plasto for small holes, and light filling of items. It needs to be used sparingly though, as it can melt the plastic, but it does dry quickly, and files up nicely.

[Guy Rixon]

I use Humbrol Model Filler for fine work. (It's one of the few Humbrol products that are any use.) Tamiya white putty is supposed to be good, too, but I haven't tried it.

[friscopete]

White miliput is the finest if its any help .squadrons good too i think mine was white last time I had some .

[railroadbill]

I've used the Humbrol filler which seems good, dries nice and hard, sands well.   For very small holes, cracks etc. imho  a good product is "Citadel Liquid Green Stuff" from Games Workshop, apply with cocktail stick. Looks a bit rubbery but leave it long enough to harden. 

[sunbeam.20]

Tamiya white is very good. Or automotive spot putty is another choice for bulk if you want a lifetime supply, just thin with automotive thinners as required.

Matthew

[wychcan]

Thank you all for the suggestions. 

Those give me something different to try. 

[Ian Morgan]

White (Fine) Milliput can be turned into a slurry with a drop of water, making it easy to work into small holes and cracks, but still ends up rock solid.

[Arun Sharma]

Personally I tend to use Plastic Padding's "Chemical Metal"  which is a two-part Isopon-like car body filler. In the past, there was a very fine grade called "Chip & Dent Filler" which was even better.

[Campaman]

You can also melt the sprue from kits in liquid polly to make your own filler, and you can make it as thick or thin as you like, just need to be kept in a sealed jar, I use an old liquid polly bottle.

[Il Grifone]

Apart from Plastic Padding (other makes are available) and polysytrene dissolved in solvent*, I have used Araldite (the proper stuff not the five minute rubbish). Ideally it should be cured at a fairly high temperature, but this is not always possible, so patience is required. The backing material of sticky labels etc. is good for moulding filler and leaves an excellent smooth surface,

 

* I have used cellulose thinners as a solvent. My stock of two part filler refused to set properly when I used it recently. It should onlt take a few minutes, but it was stll soft after a couple of hours and never did set hard. It obviously has a limited shelf life, but it was quite ancient. Poundland* used to have one, but it seems to be no longer available.

 

* Their competitors used to have it too, but these have all disappeared.

 

The diecast collecting fraternity use baking soda and superglue for reconstructing broken parts, but I haven't tried it myself yet. I have a Matchbox caravan to do (boken window pillars) so when I get around to it.... (Famous last words!)

 

There is also a pen containing a liquid which sets hard under UV light. JML sell one, but its a lot cheaper direct fom the Far East. IIRC mine came from Malaysia via eBay. Despite claims to the contrary, it requires to be illuminated by the UV LED in the pen to set, so is of limited use for filling deep holes or cracks.

Edited June 29, 2019 by Il Grifone

[Ian Morgan]

One problem to be aware of when using slow setting Epoxy Resin, like Araldite, is that it is a fluid, and in the time taken to set, will follow gravity in an attempt to escape. So make sure it is constrained while setting.

 

[friscopete]

I used Baking soda and super glue on my guitar nuts to fill a slot and refile it It  stays put under huge tension so is certainly strong .In fact I have forgotten which guitars I did it to .Watch heat with superglue it can get very hot .

The quick dry ep[oxy putties used by plaumbers is very good .I use it for making  motor mount saddles  for sticking new can motors to US  brass locos.15 mins after making it the loco is up and running .

[RobjUK]

8 hours ago, Ian Morgan said:

One problem to be aware of when using slow setting Epoxy Resin, like Araldite, is that it is a fluid, and in the time taken to set, will follow gravity in an attempt to escape. So make sure it is constrained while setting.

You can get filler powder to mix with epoxies / polyester resins to thicken them up as needed, anything up to paste form. 

 

The proper stuff does not reduce the adhesive strength at all, as long as you do not overdo it.

eg. this is the one I have: https://www.force4.co.uk/west-system-west-404-high-density-filler-250g.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0seer9OQ4wIVL7HtCh08DQc5EAQYAiABEgIauvD_BwE

 

It's very low density, the 450g tub as in the photo is 4" diameter by 6.5" tall.

 

 

Another one that should work well for fine detail, as long as it will be painted over, is ready-mixed polyfilla style stuff - the quick drying one.

(If a new plastic tub of the stuff feels almost empty when you pick it up, you have the right one).

I now get a different brand from a local trade supplier, but it's exactly the same material.

 

That is a partly alcohol based filler, it dries very quickly and the consistency for sanding is more like balsa wood than normal fillers.

It sands extremely easily, far more so than any other filler I've ever used, but it is still quite tough.

 

I have not tried it on models but it is a very fine material so should work well, assuming it will stick to whatever substrate it's being used on.

 

[Edge]

I’ll throw in my recommendation for Games Workshop Green stuff (yes that is it’s real name). It comes as either a two part putty (cut a sliver off and mix until dark green) or a paintable paste.

 

have personally used both for my warhammer models and they are both superb. Reasonably slow drying, easy to sculpt, can take a good level of detail and is easy to sand/file back to a seamless finish

[57xx]

13 hours ago, Edge said:

I’ll throw in my recommendation for Games Workshop Green stuff (yes that is it’s real name). It comes as either a two part putty (cut a sliver off and mix until dark green) or a paintable paste.

 

have personally used both for my warhammer models and they are both superb. Reasonably slow drying, easy to sculpt, can take a good level of detail and is easy to sand/file back to a seamless finish

 

I use the Liquid Green Stuff, its a very easy to use gap filler, water soluble so now worries about melting anything.

 

There's a similar product called Mr Surfacer that I saw on Barry Ten's blog, seems to be much like Green Stuff but in different grades and also works out cheaper.