Advice on C&L Turnout

[Tortuga]

Really quick and (hopefully) easy question: I’m about to start my first attempt at hand built track in 00 using a C&L kit and, being ambitious (or stupid), I’m going for a curved turnout.

 

Now, the instructions are clear that I need to make four or five cuts from the bottom of the template, but which is the bottom of the template? The side with the straight stock rail or the curved stock rail?

 

Any advice appreciated!

[martin_wynne]

The straight side.

 

p.s. 1. you can easily print templates ready-curved using Templot (free): http://templot.com

 

Here's some notes and a video showing a curved turnout template being printed:

 

 http://templot.com/companion/your_first_printed_template.php

 

 https://flashbackconnect.com/Movie.aspx?id=hdIcVN9vvksNd4kwp6LaSw2

 

p.s. 2. before using the 00 gauges supplied in the kit, make sure you have read all the stuff on RMweb about using 00-SF gauges instead.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

Edited June 25, 2019 by martin_wynne

[hayfield]

Tortuga

 

Don't cut up a template, you will get a plan with 5 doglegs. Templot is so easy to use for a single template (plan) and you will get an accurate plan to the curvature you require. If you are having issues I will make a plan and send it as a PDF, just PM me

 

 

[Stephen Freeman]

John if you do a template best to send as a boxfile, that way he can print it out from Templot after using the calibrate  printer feature therein. otherwise he might get a template that isn't accurate.

[hayfield]

Stephen

 

I was thinking on the basis that he did not have Templot, but yes if he has the program would send it in a box file

[Tortuga]

Hi all. Thanks for all the replies. The easiest solution seems to be to install Templot on my computer and calibrate my printer - assuming my old laptop can accommodate Templot without throwing a hissy fit that is!

Sounds daft, but I’m guessing I’ll need to know the radius of my curve to do this?

[Tortuga]

On 25/06/2019 at 20:50, martin_wynne said:

p.s. 2. before using the 00 gauges supplied in the kit, make sure you have read all the stuff on RMweb about using 00-SF gauges instead.

Thanks for alerting me to this Martin. I’ve had a read of some of the 00-SF stuff now (not all the disagreements I’ll admit) and I’ve come to the conclusion that 00-SF is effectively a narrower gauge of 16.2mm allowing a wide variety of stock with different BTB measurements to run reliably on hand built track. Can you confirm that I’ve got the right end of the stick?

By the way, I’m not looking to start arguments or discussions on the benefits or drawbacks of 00-SF over standard (?) 00 here!

[martin_wynne]

2 hours ago, Tortuga said:

Thanks for alerting me to this Martin. I’ve had a read of some of the 00-SF stuff now (not all the disagreements I’ll admit) and I’ve come to the conclusion that 00-SF is effectively a narrower gauge of 16.2mm allowing a wide variety of stock with different BTB measurements to run reliably on hand built track. Can you confirm that I’ve got the right end of the stick?

 

Hi,

 

Broadly yes. RTR models run reliably on 00-SF or 00-BF or DOGA-Intermediate. But if you want to mix in kit wheels, you need the narrower 00-SF flangeways for reliable running. It also looks better.

 

However, that's by-the-bye with the C&L kits. They include assembled crossings having 1.0mm flangeways, and are supplied with DOGA-Fine gauges. Which means if assembled as supplied, RTR models will not run through them unless the wheels have had their back-to-back widened.

 

If you want to run RTR models unmodified through the C&L assembled crossings, the only option is to discard the supplied gauges, and build them to 00-SF instead. They can't be built to 00-BF or DOGA-Intermediate because that would need crossings with wider flangeways than supplied.

 

It would be helpful if this was stated on the C&L web site, instead of having to post it over and over again on RMweb. I've lost count of how many times I've written the same thing.

 

That assumes of course that the C&L kits still contain what they have traditionally contained. There is no way of finding this out from the C&L web site.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

[hayfield]

20 minutes ago, martin_wynne said:

 

Hi,

 

Broadly yes. RTR models run reliably on 00-SF or 00-BF or DOGA-Intermediate. But if you want to mix in kit wheels, you need the narrower 00-SF flangeways for reliable running. It also looks better.

 

However, that's by-the-bye with the C&L kits. They include assembled crossings having 1.0mm flangeways, and are supplied with DOGA-Fine gauges. Which means if assembled as supplied, RTR models will not run through them unless the wheels have had their back-to-back widened.

 

If you want to run RTR models unmodified through the C&L assembled crossings, the only option is to discard the supplied gauges, and build them to 00-SF instead. They can't be built to 00-BF or DOGA-Intermediate because that would need crossings with wider flangeways than supplied.

 

It would be helpful if this was stated on the C&L web site, instead of having to post it over and over again on RMweb. I've lost count of how many times I've written the same thing.

 

That assumes of course that the C&L kits still contain what they have traditionally contained. There is no way of finding this out from the C&L web site.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

 

Martin

 

C&L have now had 00 gauges made to 00-BF standards and sell 00-sf gauges as well. The common crossings remain the same with 1 mm flangeways, Phil is looking into supplying common crossings with 1,25 mm flangeways but its low on his list of priorities, Phil has expanded the range of gauges he sells, though as you have said the descriptions could be a bit better. Now gone from Famine to feast as he even does them for code 100 rail. I will try and have a word, but it might take a few tries

 

https://www.clfinescale.co.uk/online-store/Roller-Gauges-and-Back-to-Back-Gauges-c32907251 

 

As for the kits you can chat to Phil and he will assemble the kit to your requirements (Chairs and gauges) though you are stuck with the choice between P4 and 1 mm flangeways on the common crossings. The alternative especially if you are using plastic timbers is to buy Vee's rather than common crossings, make and fit the wing rails yourself using chairs which will hold the rails in place. The trouble with the kits is the number of permutations there are, plus the knowledge of both buyer and seller.  

 

Phil is open to any reasonable suggestions, and welcomes constructive comments and advice

Edited June 28, 2019 by hayfield

[Tortuga]

Thanks ever so much for your replies! I was getting a little worried that my C&L kit had wide flangeways.

So, I have two choices; build it using the supplied gauges and modify any RTR stock I have OR buy some 00-SF gauges.

I take it that can use the C&L 00 gauges to help build plain track?

[martin_wynne]

35 minutes ago, Tortuga said:

Thanks ever so much for your replies! I was getting a little worried that my C&L kit had wide flangeways.

So, I have two choices; build it using the supplied gauges and modify any RTR stock I have OR buy some 00-SF gauges.

 

Yes.

 

Maybe C&L would agree to exchange the gauges.

 

I take it that can use the C&L 00 gauges to help build plain track?

 

If you are building plain track on a 00-SF layout it would make sense to use 00-SF gauges for the plain track. That removes some gauge-slop on straight and gently curving track, for better running.

 

However, many users of 00-SF for pointwork use 16.5mm plastic flexi for plain track. Either way, you wouldn't have a use for the DOGA-Fine gauges.

 

Some 00-SF users construct only the crossing area to 00-SF standards, and widen the rest of a turnout to 16.5mm. I've never seen any reason to do that, but each to his own. If you did so, the only the outer slots in the DOGA-Fine gauges would be used for the 16.5mm parts.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.