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Brian's 7mm Diesel Workbench, Belated up-date!


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Could you temporarily assemble the sides to the bogie, drill through the bogie moulding and through the locating pin on the side frames and screw a 12 or 14 ba bolt through the lot? 

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JF

 

Have you been reading my mind Jon? I was thinking how nice it would be to replace the spigots with a brass one, a bit bigger and then as you say drill a hole for a pin or 12ba bolt.

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Another session on the 22.

 

Fitted the roof etches.

 

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Bufferbeams attached but they needed a bit of filing to get a good fit with the cabs.

 

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Finished the bogie sideframe details with the air cylinders and lifeguards.

 

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I added the buffer heads to the shanks and stopped them turning by the old fashioned way with a piece of wire between the two rear shafts. Thankfully there is a slot between the floor and chassis for the wire to sit in.

 

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When the cab interior is slotted in it is a pig to get out again as the side windows that are further in at the bottom than the top get in the way. It takes a bit of twisting to get the things out again.

 

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Have you been reading my mind Jon? I was thinking how nice it would be to replace the spigots with a brass one, a bit bigger and then as you say drill a hole for a pin or 12ba bolt.

:sungum: Lol! It's the same with the 24 too. I tried my best to make the bogie sides removeable but gave up eventually and glued them on and crossed my fingers in the hope I never need to get to the wheels.!

I think Mickoo's version on WT is a far more robust and elegant solution than mine but whatever works.....

I still love the speed at which it's possible to assemble these kits though; I'm waiting for the D600 Warship for my next purchase :locomotive:

JF

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Spent almost the entire weekend plumbing, so only just come across this.

 

for fixing the bogie side frames, I'd carve off the resin spigots and replace with longer ones from brass rod.

 

Then drill down through the resin and tap a 10BA screw in place to hold them.

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Would the resin take to being tapped and a screw used? I'd imagine the tread would strip really easily. Just thinking loud here really....

 

I have a similar problem traing to attach the JLTRT bogie side frames to a pair of ABC power bogies on my JLTRT class 50. Has me completely stumped at the moment. Any ideas gratefully received. Appologies to Brian for the mini-thread hijack!

Edited by admiles
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Have you been reading my mind Jon? I was thinking how nice it would be to replace the spigots with a brass one, a bit bigger and then as you say drill a hole for a pin or 12ba bolt.

 

Would you need to put the pin/bolt through the spigot, or just thread a hole so the screw presses against the spigot and holds it in place.  Wouldn't need to tighten it too much since there's no forces working against the bogie sideframe.  After all, we usually don't drill through axles to attach the drive gears, we just use a set screw pressing against the axle...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I have done the bogie sideframe fixings on one bogie. I used some 2.4mm K&S brass rod, drilled and tapped the end 12BA and glued it into the sideframe. The locating holes on the bogie were enlarged and a verticle hole drilled to pass the 12BA bolt through. I am not worried about countersinking the bolt as you can't see it under the body.

 

Well I was at it I tested out a pick-up glued through the centre spring casting. One problem with the Slaters wheels is that there is a rather large V molded into the steel wheel rim to stop the centres from turning. This does not give you much room for a plunger pick-up to miss this plastic V. And as you have to drill your own holes for plunger pick-ups on this model i just know mine would be rubbing over the plastic. So I opted for a phospher bronze wiper that I could bend up to miss the plastic V. I had to bend it a bit more to miss the brake blocks when the sideframes are on hence why it looks a bit bent. I still have not got the motors and gearboxes yet!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Managed to grab some time and get the 22 motorized with a couple of Machimas and Roxey 13:1 gearboxes that I got at Kettering. There is already a hole in the top of the bogie to take an ABC motor/gearbox but it needs opening a little to fit the Roxey box.

 

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As you can see when the sideframes are on the pick-ups and Delrin do not show.

 

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The Delrin was just right with no slack dangling.

 

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The wiper pick-ups just clear the V in the Slaters rims.

 

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After making the sideframes detachable once you secure the brake pull rod behind the wheel they won't come off!

 

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Pick-ups just clear the brake castings.

 

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Hi Brian,

 

many thanks for posting the progress pictures, they will be a great help when I start mine,(should be with me sometime this coming week).

 

On the last but one photo in your last post - showing the brake pull rod, could you show do a picture showing how the rod fixes to the front beam - I am thinking ahead t doing a similar fixing as you have done for the frame sides to the main bogie

body.

 

cheers

 

Mike

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Very nice, Brian.

 

Was the fit of the Delrin perfect  by chance, what would you have done had it been loose, and would it have mattered if the pickups touch the brake castings?

Edited by JeffP
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Very nice, Brian.

 

Was the fit of the Delrin perfect  by chance, what would you have done had it been loose, and would it have mattered if the pickups touch the brake castings?

 

I will give JLTRT a pat on the back and say that the Delrin chain tension was designed to be just right  :mail:  If it was a bit saggy I would have had to have made a support for it somehow. It does not matter if the pick-ups touch the brakes as it won't short due to the resin bogie but it might stop it working properly. Never thought of using 4mm plunger Ozzyo.

 

I am still working out how to illuminate the headcode boxes and stop the light from going everywhere and to try and make it so you stand a chance of changing an LED should it be needed in the future hence why the cabs have not been put together just yet.

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Brass tubing that fits snugly round the LED body, the LED can then be a push-fit.

At the other end, either sliding brass tubing telescopic fit with the fibre optic, or Epoxy the fibre optic in place.

 

The f/o being very then can easily be hidden, even in a channel through the resin body, and the LED's are easily replaced, no light leakage as they are a) inside the body and B) inside a brass tube.

 

A bit similar to what Simon Varnam did with an MMP Class 47 on Building O-Gauge Online.

Edited by JeffP
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