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Brian's 7mm Diesel Workbench, Belated up-date!


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Peco do GWR self contained buffers (they call them parallel) as an accessory set with hooks and 3 link - same ones used in the GWR box van kit

 

The official photo of the set is misleading as it doesn't show the plastic base of the stock which sits against the buffer beam but I've bought these sets and it is included.

 

Sprung via a wire linking the buffers through the hook

Edited by Hal Nail
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Took some pictures of the TC at last.

 

attachicon.giftc 10.jpg

 

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I do not have any first class seat covering as yet so the interior of thie FK will have to wait a while.

 

attachicon.giftc 09.jpg

Absolutely Stunning!!! I'm currently working on a 6REP in 4mm but I'm in awe of your 4TC. I love all the detailing and interior work, amazing. 

 

Danny...

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Added the Archers rivets to the Bolster C, hope they will show when painted! I too ended up looking at the NMRS buffers Kev Lewis and ordered some from Invertrains. It's the GWR/Lowmac ones that are ok for these.

 

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Whilst I have been a wagon mood I did something I have meaning to do for ages, use the Modelmates rust on the ends of some wagons. So I used it on the ends of another M&M (DA Kits) wagon, a shock open. I also added some laser cut wood interiors that I got at Reading.

 

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post-6766-0-90907700-1482530711.jpg

 

Got some interiors for a Pipe wagon as well.

 

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I have been waiting to get the bottle to rust the end of a van as they always look very black with years of rust. So I got in and had a go on a JLTRT Banana van that I am using as a runner. Must say I am pleased with the result.

 

post-6766-0-92456000-1482530715.jpg

 

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Edited by brian daniels
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It's called Modelmates and comes in a little plastic jar like Acrylic paints do. The interior of the shock open you can see the ends are a bit lighter which is Rusty Red. The darker is Rust Effect. You can mix a bit of both together on the wagon to get effect.

 

Thanks for the quick reply Brian.

 

Those Modelmates look like something to try... you've certainly made a good job on the van/ wagon ends  :good:

 

Cheers

Lee

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  • 3 weeks later...

What have I been doing lately? Well I built a Bogie Bolster C from M&M that's painted now. But recently I have converting a Heljan class 26 to a class 27 using etches supplied by Vin off ebay. Unfortunatly Vin has disappeared off ebay so I doubt you could still get these, which is a shame as he did a good kit complete with LED's ready wired for the headcode and tail lights. I have used a few JLTRT castings as well and am waiting for some of their windscreen wipers and bogie steps. I will have this with me at my demo stand at the Bristol show this coming Sunday.

 

I have decided to do it as 27010 as it was one of a few that had the beading missing over the gangway door blanks.

 

post-6766-0-11935100-1484582181.jpg

 

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JLTRT ploughs and bufferbeam pipes added.

 

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One thing the camera shows up is that I need a bit more filler and rubbing down in places  :O

 

post-6766-0-03434800-1484582125.jpg

 

Fuel tank etches to give the correct slant to the bottom of the tank.

 

post-6766-0-77185100-1484582126.jpg

 

JLTRT Bogie airpipe castings. Also need another airline out of wire. I have also moved the coil springs inbound a bit.

 

post-6766-0-71156300-1484582128.jpg

 

Token recess filled with plasticard and then filler. JLTRT lampbrackets mounted on a piece of plasticard so they point straight rather than follow the body contour if glued straight onto the body.

 

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Roof detail added together with JLTRT lifting lugs.

 

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Not sure whether to change the rad fan for a Shawplan etch or not.

 

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Bodyside windows raised up using the etches supplied.

 

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Must say looking at my JLTRT 27's the bodyside windows don't look quite right next to the small grills. The bottom of the windows should be inline with the top of these little grills.

 

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Looks nearly like the real thing!

 

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Edited by brian daniels
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  • 2 weeks later...

Think that's about it  :locomotive:  Although I still need 2 door handles on one side and some long windscreen wipers, Laurie sent some but they were the short ones for 37/40, you need the ones from the Western. I keep looking at the body and finding small pinprick holes in the filling so seem to be forever filling and rubbing down :cray_mini:

 

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Steps changed, lifting lug added, airlines and sand gear added. Corners of the bufferbeam filed at the correct angle.

 

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Sanding valve casting is from the JLTRT class 20. I had to file away the front of the bogie sides to clear the snowplough brackets. I have also left off the front bogie frame bit as it just fouls on the plough brackets as well and to be honest you can't see it behind the ploughs.

 

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Door handles are bonnet handles from the JLTRT class 20. I only had two in the spares box so have ordered some more.

 

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Water tank brackets are from the JLTRT class 27.

 

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Battery box brackets are from the JLTRT class 33.

 

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Edited by brian daniels
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Think that's about it  :locomotive:  Although I still need 2 door handles on one side and some long windscreen wipers, Laurie sent some but they were the short ones for 37/40, you need the ones from the Western.

 

attachicon.gif2701.jpg

 

Steps changed, lifting lug added, airlines and sand gear added.

 

attachicon.gif2702.jpg

 

attachicon.gif2703.jpg

 

Sanding valve casting is from the JLTRT class 20. I had to file away the front of the bogie sides to clear the snowplough brackets. I have also left off the front bogie frame bit as it just fouls on the plough brackets as well and to be honest you can't see it behind the ploughs.

 

attachicon.gif2704.jpg

 

Door handles are bonnet handles from the JLTRT class 20. I only had two in the spares box so have ordered some more.

 

attachicon.gif2705.jpg

 

Water tank brackets are from the JLTRT class 27.

 

attachicon.gif2706.jpg

 

Battery box brackets are from the JLTRT class 33.

 

attachicon.gif2707.jpg

Looking superb Brian!

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Think I have done all I can think of now. Should get some paint on it next week I hope.

 

I painted some Halfords primer on the bits that had a bit of filler on them to how bad my rubbing down was.

 

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Shawplan etched rad grill added and a bit of brass for the rad overflow. I glued the Heljan radiator grill mesh molding into the roof and then cut out the mesh bit leaving the outer ring in the roof. This was then filed down flush and the etch glued in place.

 

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Side grill mesh just resting in place to see what it looks like.

 

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Noticed that 27010 had a drain pipe along the solebar on one side.

 

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In my spares box I had these little lugs for the bogies so thought it would be a shame not to use them. The Heljan bogies are from their 33, close to a 26/7 but not quite close enough. It was a job to remove the larger molded lugs from the bogie sideframes without getting the knife dug into some other details. It should look ok when painted black and muck.

 

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Forgot to mention I also removed the two little safety clips on top of the batterybox etch overlay as if you look at the black and white picture of 27010 it did not have these at this time.

Edited by brian daniels
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attachicon.gifwag03.jpg

 

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Hi,

 

What type of buffers are these on the shock (ie in real life)? Been looking up possible variations for a Parkside standard GWR open on Paul Bartlett's site and a fair number have this type but no idea what I'm looking for.

 

Ta

Edited by Hal Nail
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Hi,

 

What type of buffers are these on the shock (ie in real life)? Been looking up possible variations for a Parkside standard GWR open on Paul Bartlett's site and a fair number have this type but no idea what I'm looking for.

 

Ta

 

Hello Hal,

 

I think that they are heavy duty self contained buffers, but I'm probable wrong. I must get up to speed on wagons.

 

OzzyO. 

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Hi chaps. The buffers on the shock opens are what came with them many years ago when these were sold as DA kits. But they do look a lot like these available from NMRS-Models. I have used these on my Bolster C and have bought these for an M&M Lowmac.

 

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I have weathered the Bolster C now.

 

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I see Ozzyo that you are building one of these Bolsters. I gave up with the two middle U shape frames down the underside as when I fitted them the body went like a boomerang and I could not get it back level. But unless you are into big de-railment's you can't see that they are not there. I also added Archers rivets on the solebar as they are devoid of any detail, they do show, just! Still have to chain the load down which is Plastruct sections.

 

 

post-6766-0-02362700-1486473653.jpg

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Hi chaps. The buffers on the shock opens are what came with them many years ago when these were sold as DA kits. But they do look a lot like these available from NMRS-Models. I have used these on my Bolster C and have bought these for an M&M Lowmac.

 

attachicon.gifbolster6.jpg

 

attachicon.gifbolster4.jpg

 

I have weathered the Bolster C now.

 

attachicon.gifBolster1.jpg

 

attachicon.gifbolster2.jpg

 

attachicon.gifbolster3.jpg

 

I see Ozzyo that you are building one of these Bolsters. I gave up with the two middle U shape frames down the underside as when I fitted them the body went like a boomerang and I could not get it back level. But unless you are into big de-railment's you can't see that they are not there. I also added Archers rivets on the solebar as they are devoid of any detail, they do show, just! Still have to chain the load down which is Plastruct sections.

With complete coincidence, I'm just finishing one of these. It was re-assuring to read your comment about the bowing when you tried to fit the inside solebars, as I had exactly the same experience which I put down to my lack of experience in soldering in this scale!

 

Did you fit the wooden floor in the end? I ask as from the pics it looks a fairly uniform shade of grey. I've found it possible to carefully cut the wood to fit between the bolsters, although it took a little while, however I don't feel 100% confident that the Evo-Stik will bond forever, and so the bolsters themselves will be attached using double sided tape in case the lot has to come off for re-fixing in the future.

 

John.

Edited by John Tomlinson
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Hi John

 

We can all join the bent solebar club then!

 

I did fit the wooden floor between the bolsters although I did have to cut it a bit narrower to get it in over the top lip of the sides. You are right about the colour of the floor, it does need a bit more doing to it before I chain the girders down.

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Hello Brain, all,

 

the bits that I had problems with were the inside beams one did go for a bit of a run around, I think that you may see it in this photo.

post-8920-0-15260800-1486652374_thumb.jpg

 

Then it was onto fitting the two angled centre angled solebars. These I did not find a problem as I fitted them to the two cross member and just let them float to the inner solebars and then solder them all up. But all in all the wagon ended up flat (I must open up the doors so that I can get my head out of them).

post-8920-0-82514800-1486652313_thumb.jpg

 

OzzyO.   

 

PS. how are you going to fasten your load down? I'm thinking about using the Slater's M7022 shackles for the containers as a starting point. 

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post-8920-0-15260800-1486652374_thumb.jpg

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OzzyO, you've been more successful in getting the floor flat than me, as mine has a slight arch upwards in the centre (not intended) - however pics suggest this may have been the case on the real thing so I can live with it.

 

I see you tacked the ends of the diagonal truss rods to the bottom of the solebar rather than the top, which I think is right although contrary to the instructions, as these only just clear the bogie ends on the real thing. I have their Bogie Bolster E kit, still to be faced, which on examination also needs this to be done.

 

Your plan for the Slaters shackles looks a good one, and I shall try to get some at Kettering in a few weeks time.

 

John.

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I will be using CPL hooks and chains to secure the load. You notice I have put a couple of the whitmetal solebar eyes with the rings upright ready to take the hooks and chains.

 

I see from your pictures Ozzyo that you put the L piece across all the trusses on the outside of the uprights but if you look at pictures they should go on the insides http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brbcv/hbfcbe50#h1e00dd89

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