Jump to content
 

Brian's 7mm Diesel Workbench, Belated up-date!


Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Premium

Well it looks like I've got a bit of work to do not that much, only all of the uprights and turn them around then remove the crossbeams.Then refit the uprights and get all of the other bits in place.

 

OzzyO.

 

So what will you be doing after tea tonight?  :jester:

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

27010 is now finished apart from a bit of muck on it later.

 

post-6766-0-41878200-1487505714.jpg

 

post-6766-0-29055200-1487505715.jpg

 

It's a JLTRT one next to it. I am still waiting for some straight windscreen wipers from Laurie so in the mean time I have put the Heljan ones back in.

 

post-6766-0-59631100-1487505716.jpg

 

post-6766-0-48675600-1487505717.jpg

 

post-6766-0-19184700-1487505719.jpg

 

Shawplan roof grill.

 

post-6766-0-41067200-1487505720.jpg

 

post-6766-0-83268600-1487505721.jpg

 

Details here will show better once weathered.

 

post-6766-0-90072800-1487505722.jpg

Edited by brian daniels
  • Like 11
Link to post
Share on other sites

The last few weeks I have been building a Connoisseur kits Queen Mary brake van, and very nice it is too. All the parts fit together very nicely, it will never catch on! I wanted to do it as one with the sandbox on the ends and the side planking still on it, I have only found one picture of one like this in Engineers Olive. Would have been nice to use a resistance soldering iron on this but we got there with my trusty 25W and big 75W irons. It is fully sprung and runs really well. The couplings are the kits hooks and CPL bits I had spare for the links.

post-6766-0-33752800-1487506375.jpg

post-6766-0-96328900-1487506376.jpg

post-6766-0-60806200-1487506378.jpg

post-6766-0-34025400-1487506380_thumb.jpg

post-6766-0-59047900-1487506381.jpg

post-6766-0-97016500-1487506382.jpg

post-6766-0-67631000-1487506384.jpg

post-6766-0-14331700-1487506386.jpg

post-6766-0-15644700-1487506387.jpg

post-6766-0-38360100-1487506388.jpg

  • Like 13
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have got a tail light unit from DCC Supplies. It has a flicker circuit for the fire in the stove and a steady circuit that I will use for the tail and side lights. It is on a button battery that will hide in the roof.

 

The last few days I have been building a M&M Lowmac. To say it's an interesting kit is an understatement! It's the first kit I have built where nothing locates into another part so every part can go where you like buy a mill or two either side of where it should be. But we got there in the end.

 

post-6766-0-50238600-1488905669.jpg

 

Buffers are from NMRS to replace the solid ones in the kit. Vac pipe is from Slaters. Coupling plate is from CPL and the coupling is an Exactoscale one that I had spare, I have ordered some Exactoscale screw couplings for this.

 

post-6766-0-52879700-1488905670.jpg

 

Nice and strong underneath.

 

post-6766-0-56842700-1488905671.jpg

 

I have changed the cast on brake pulls on the shaft for etched ones that were spare from the Queen MAry Brake kit. Whilst not acurate they are a lot better than what was there.

 

Original brake cross shaft.

 

post-6766-0-60706600-1488905672.jpg

 

Modified brake cross shaft.

 

post-6766-0-58662800-1488905673.jpg

 

Handbrake guide has been anchored to the axleguard with a bit of flat wire.

 

I have since drilled out and filled the 4 holes by the handbrake pivot with EDM plastic bolts as the casting with four bolts on them that should have protruded through these holes were at a different spacing than the four holes!

 

post-6766-0-56028800-1488905674.jpg

Edited by brian daniels
  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

Here are a couple of pictures showing the 4 EDM bolts I used on the handbrake fixings and some lift rings that I made up. These are made from a lost wax loop on a spigot that's spare from my CPL chain tensioners that I am useing to fix loads to my wagons. Made the loops from .5 wire. Should be giving it it's first run tomorrow at the Hurley test track together with a Heljan 61xx!

 

post-6766-0-54462100-1489255802.jpg

 

post-6766-0-98371500-1489255800.jpg

 

Just weathered the Heljan 26-27 conversion. Still got to get the right straight style windscreen wipers from JLTRT.

 

post-6766-0-43567600-1489255805.jpg

 

post-6766-0-46849100-1489255806.jpg

 

post-6766-0-78951600-1489255807_thumb.jpg

 

post-6766-0-05466100-1489255809.jpg

Edited by brian daniels
  • Like 18
Link to post
Share on other sites

What do I do to weather these models?

 

Well I have just weathered a pre-production Heljan Industrial maroon livery 05 by spraying with Railmatch Frame Dirt, Roof Dirt and Black. For the underframe area I spray frame dirt first to give a fairly even coat underneath but don't have to be too fussy about this. Then spray roof dirt in uneven passes of the airbrush, just a dab of it here and there. Then re-do a dab here and there with the frame dirt. Then a bit of black around the fillers and drains areas. For the bodies I spray frame dirt into the grill areas then wipe off in downward motion with blue paper roll. Spray more frame dirt around the lower body and wipe upwards trying to leave a thicker deposit at the bottom and thinning as it goes up. I also spray a bit more frame dirt in handholes sandbox filler recess and wipe off again with a bit of paper roll with thinners on it as the sides will start to look a bit streaky by now. Then it's basically just building it up until you are satisfied, also useing roof dirt around radiator side grills. I tend to rub the sides so as you are basically trying to polish it as if you look at pictures from the late 70's the blue and yellow is very clean generally. I repeat this on the ends, spray on and wipe off. The roof just get a mix of frame dirt and roof dirt and black around exhausts. Then I will do a bit of dry brushing maybe with rust colours around buffers and bogies.  Bufferbeams and snowploughs are a mix of frame dirt and roof dirt but then I dip a paint brush in thinners and flood it onto the parts to make the paints run and mix, dabbing off excess thinners with a bit of blue roll. 

 

Maybe one day I will try and get a mate to video me doing it!

post-6766-0-24787800-1490281059.jpg

  • Like 12
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

What have I been doing recently?

 

Finished the transfers on the M&M Lowmac. They are from a number of suppliers including the Lowmac lettering from an old dried up sheet of Woodhead ones!

 

post-6766-0-17909700-1491938742.jpg

 

post-6766-0-83720800-1491938743.jpg

 

post-6766-0-44021600-1491938745.jpg

 

post-6766-0-25176500-1491938747.jpg

 

Now the eagle eyed amongst you might have noticed the load on it.

 

post-6766-0-07271900-1491940730.jpg

 

post-6766-0-84300100-1491940730.jpg

 

It is a Wickham trolley made by DJB I believe many years ago and motorized with a Tenshodo spud under it. I originally painted in this fictitious livery of coal sector so it could go over a coal mine branch and inspect the line. I have now repainted it into MoD green to represent a load out of one of their bases. Again fictitious but it looks the part.

 

 

I have been doing a bit of work on one of the pre production Heljan Peaks to make it 45137 with marker lights.

 

post-6766-0-07730400-1491939206.jpg

 

As I had a few castings from JLTRT in the spares box I thought it would be rude not to use them. So I changed the airpipe around the batterybox to their castings.

 

post-6766-0-26260500-1491939211.jpg

 

post-6766-0-99483600-1491939211.jpg

 

I am doing this as 45137 so have used the JLTRT Peak ETH castings on the bufferbeam. Lampbrackets are etched ones from JLTRT that I will add after I have masked up the yellow ends.

 

post-6766-0-83618700-1491939208.jpg

 

post-6766-0-23445200-1491939210_thumb.jpg

 

The marker lights are from DJH that thankfully I still have another set for anything in the future.

 

post-6766-0-57729100-1491939207_thumb.jpg

 

The boiler roof panels needed removing and I replaced the large one with a piece of thin brass sheet and just filed down the exhaust , leaving a base to represent the replacement panel. The holes I have drilled into the boiler filler blanks are to take a JLTRT vent casting when I get some from Laurie.

 

post-6766-0-68310900-1491939212.jpg

 

The chassis on this was from one I did in green with a full set of sandboxes but I need to remove the inner ones for blue livery.

Edited by brian daniels
  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...