Mr Grumpy Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 (edited) HiBrian, Absolutely love your 33/1! That is similar to how I installed the decoder in my Western. I was surprised how little room there was in there! Edited February 28, 2016 by Mr Grumpy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 I will tidy the wiring up a bit more eventually. I just wish JLTRT would do a slim jim! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 I will tidy the wiring up a bit more eventually. I just wish JLTRT would do a slim jim! A scanned version of me certainly won't fit in that one!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 Now Eiliens Emporium had got some thin strip back in stock I can get on and replace the sticky out gangways that I did on the DTSO's. I have done one front end here. Doing this though looses the working spring effect but to be honest I doubt it would have got used on the fronts. It still works on the intermediate gangways which is what counts. 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Brian, Do the flywheels make a significant difference to the operation of the Mashimas? They look very neat. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 I have no idea but every little helps. People do say that with DCC you don't need flywheels but I bet nobody has taken the flywheels off their Heljan locos! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Probably because they cannot remove then with out wrecking the motors. I have found that a fly wheel makes a significant difference with a Mashima motor when running at slow speeds and that goes for both scales 4 or 7mm models. if fly wheels were constructed of two materials smaller fly wheels could be used i.e. brass centre/shaft mounting and cast white metal/lead outer covering they would be far more efficient and give much better results. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold griffgriff Posted February 28, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 28, 2016 I will tidy the wiring up a bit more eventually. I just wish JLTRT would do a slim jim! Even less width in one of those Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Finally got out and took some pictures of the latest work. ETH is now fitted on both ends. I have added the reservoir tanks and EP box under one DTSO. Also added the AWS magnet cover. I only had enough lifting lugs for two coaches but the rest are on order. I decided to do one DTSO with all the steps up the end which is how some ended up. The Emergency brake butterfly is from CPL but is not tall enough to go over the gangways! This gangway has to be replaced with a shorter one when I can get hold of some brass strip. And lastly I received my mini-me from Modelu today, a bit more resin in it than I thought there would be Must do another with my legs together as I don't think this will go under a desk but should be ok for 60/66 cabs. A company is doing them in 16mm now - they look great, but I think that, in 7mm or 16mm I have a face better suited to radio! All the parts for the bufferbeams/drawbars look superb! HiBrian, Absolutely love your 33/1! That is similar to how I installed the decoder in my Western. I was surprised how little room there was in there! Its the same in RC models with batteries as everything seems relative, ie increases proportionally in size! Brian, Do the flywheels make a significant difference to the operation of the Mashimas? They look very neat. I have found that they help with slow speed running as Brian and Peter have said, but it depends on motor and loco type too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelly Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 Nice 4TC and 33 there Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted March 2, 2016 Author Share Posted March 2, 2016 Took the TC and 33 for a run round my mates layout yesterday now the 33 has sound in it. It did look good thundering through his station with a model of Newbury's footbridge on it now. 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 Hi Brian, Have you uploaded a video on to YouTube ? We need to hear it!!!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted March 2, 2016 Author Share Posted March 2, 2016 Funny you should say that but as it happens I have https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b1zeGbYy-50 and another https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfI16XIKkw0 Must admit I am not very good at videoing and operating a Lenz handheld at the same time! Also just added these to Youtube of a 25 in the sunshine https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcGF23IxGSA And a 26 banked by a 25 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2k01y-kM2BQ 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium keefer Posted March 2, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 2, 2016 Love the first one - 4TC looks great barreling through then you have the 33 thrashing away on the back, great stuff and it'll be even better once it's painted. I've always had a soft spot for push-pulls, more interesting than something just hauling from the front! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Excellent !! I have the same decoder in my 33/0. The thrash is deafening!! Great videos as always, even better locos!! :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddys-blues Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 Hello Brian, sorry to dig up a post that you made a good few pages back, it is reference the JLTRT Class 22 you built, can you tell me how the model runs fitted with the twin Roxey Mouldings Gearboxes & Mashima motors ? I noticed the price of the Roxey are £77 for the the two motors & gearboxes, where as the Slaters set up is £95 per motor / box unit. Best regards Craig. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 Hi Craig I have had no problem with fold up etch gearboxes from Roxey or Markits, both with 13:1 gears. They run ok with or without DCC. They pull everything I have put behind them up to the point they slip as I have not tended to put extra weight in my JLTRT locos. Look at the video clip of the 26 and 25 linked to a couple of posts above to see a long heavy train with locos both of which have these style gearboxes.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddys-blues Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Thank you Brian for your in depth reply. Best regards Craig Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solderpete Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Hi Brian, What size wire did you use for the handrails on the Shark? I bought one at Kettering and I'm about to start on it but the first thing I noticed is that the holes for the handrails seem rather big at around 1.3mm. Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Probably because they cannot remove then with out wrecking the motors. I have found that a fly wheel makes a significant difference with a Mashima motor when running at slow speeds and that goes for both scales 4 or 7mm models. if fly wheels were constructed of two materials smaller fly wheels could be used i.e. brass centre/shaft mounting and cast white metal/lead outer covering they would be far more efficient and give much better results. The castings would have to be SOOO accurate, or they would need to be turned on a lathe for balance. Even then, any blow holes in the casting would unbalance the motor and probably destroy it's bearings. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Well Jeff OzzyO makes his own fly wheels using the cast method and they work fine & he does turn them on his lathe and balances them, if they can design a model accurately they could design a proper fly wheel. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Agreed, but as you say, balance is all. Some of the better brass ones are turned into almost a thick walled tube, the centres being relieved, leaving most of the mass at the edge. Just enough in the centre to fix to the motor shaft and a thin web between that and the outer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Ozzy0 can make his flywheels without having to worry about commercial costs; for mass production, it is far easier, and therefore cheaper, to make a component such as this from a single material in one machining operation. Hence, the one-piece brass flywheel. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted March 11, 2016 Author Share Posted March 11, 2016 Hi Brian, What size wire did you use for the handrails on the Shark? I bought one at Kettering and I'm about to start on it but the first thing I noticed is that the holes for the handrails seem rather big at around 1.3mm. Peter. 0.8 Peter. A bit bigger than I would have liked due to the holes but it looks ok. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share Posted March 12, 2016 I am still doing bits to the TC, boring repetative bits mostly. How to fit pick-ups though has been going through my mind recently. I decided to short out one axle by soldering a wire from the axle to the rear face of the wheel. Now it's not the neatest soldering in the world but I was worried about melting the insulation on the axle with to much heat. I found it needed a bit of a help to get the electricity from the bogie to the pivot screw so I soldered a piece of phospher bronze wire rubbing on the pivot screw. And that's it, one bogie left and one right pick-up, no drag on wiper pick-ups, seems to work a treat with the led I have put in the headcode. I have been adding the T piece supports in the truss rods as well. Also adding electric conduit down the solebars. Hopefully in a couple of weeks we should have some etches and castings to get a bit more done. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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