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Bought this Bolster C at Reading from M&M and have been busy ever since. It's from the old DA kits range if you remember them from about 30 years ago! They are ok but basic. I am now adding a few Archer rivets to the solebar to see if that helps. They have included a very nice laser cut wood deck for it but if I use it then the bolsters are raised up too much so will just make do with the etched deck. I have changed the vac pipe and lamp bracket for Slaters items. The coupling hook is from CPL. Unfortunately the buffers are solid, anyone know who does a self contained sprung version? The bolsters had the two uprights cast on in whitemetal and needless to say they went for a burton very easily so they are replaced with brass wire. The cast tiedown loops on the solebar have the round loop dangling nicely but I put three of them up the other way so the loops are up in the air ready to take a chain to secure a load later. When finished it will look very nice in a mixed freight trundling round and round.

Brian why dont you cut the laser cut wood and place in between each bolster should be ok  

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Peco do GWR self contained buffers (they call them parallel) as an accessory set with hooks and 3 link - same ones used in the GWR box van kit

 

The official photo of the set is misleading as it doesn't show the plastic base of the stock which sits against the buffer beam but I've bought these sets and it is included.

 

Sprung via a wire linking the buffers through the hook

Edited by Hal Nail
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Took some pictures of the TC at last.

 

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I do not have any first class seat covering as yet so the interior of thie FK will have to wait a while.

 

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Absolutely Stunning!!! I'm currently working on a 6REP in 4mm but I'm in awe of your 4TC. I love all the detailing and interior work, amazing. 

 

Danny...

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Added the Archers rivets to the Bolster C, hope they will show when painted! I too ended up looking at the NMRS buffers Kev Lewis and ordered some from Invertrains. It's the GWR/Lowmac ones that are ok for these.

 

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Whilst I have been a wagon mood I did something I have meaning to do for ages, use the Modelmates rust on the ends of some wagons. So I used it on the ends of another M&M (DA Kits) wagon, a shock open. I also added some laser cut wood interiors that I got at Reading.

 

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Got some interiors for a Pipe wagon as well.

 

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I have been waiting to get the bottle to rust the end of a van as they always look very black with years of rust. So I got in and had a go on a JLTRT Banana van that I am using as a runner. Must say I am pleased with the result.

 

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Edited by brian daniels
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It's called Modelmates and comes in a little plastic jar like Acrylic paints do. The interior of the shock open you can see the ends are a bit lighter which is Rusty Red. The darker is Rust Effect. You can mix a bit of both together on the wagon to get effect.

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It's called Modelmates and comes in a little plastic jar like Acrylic paints do. The interior of the shock open you can see the ends are a bit lighter which is Rusty Red. The darker is Rust Effect. You can mix a bit of both together on the wagon to get effect.

 

Thanks for the quick reply Brian.

 

Those Modelmates look like something to try... you've certainly made a good job on the van/ wagon ends  :good:

 

Cheers

Lee

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  • 3 weeks later...

What have I been doing lately? Well I built a Bogie Bolster C from M&M that's painted now. But recently I have converting a Heljan class 26 to a class 27 using etches supplied by Vin off ebay. Unfortunatly Vin has disappeared off ebay so I doubt you could still get these, which is a shame as he did a good kit complete with LED's ready wired for the headcode and tail lights. I have used a few JLTRT castings as well and am waiting for some of their windscreen wipers and bogie steps. I will have this with me at my demo stand at the Bristol show this coming Sunday.

 

I have decided to do it as 27010 as it was one of a few that had the beading missing over the gangway door blanks.

 

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JLTRT ploughs and bufferbeam pipes added.

 

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One thing the camera shows up is that I need a bit more filler and rubbing down in places  :O

 

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Fuel tank etches to give the correct slant to the bottom of the tank.

 

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JLTRT Bogie airpipe castings. Also need another airline out of wire. I have also moved the coil springs inbound a bit.

 

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Token recess filled with plasticard and then filler. JLTRT lampbrackets mounted on a piece of plasticard so they point straight rather than follow the body contour if glued straight onto the body.

 

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Roof detail added together with JLTRT lifting lugs.

 

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Not sure whether to change the rad fan for a Shawplan etch or not.

 

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Bodyside windows raised up using the etches supplied.

 

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Must say looking at my JLTRT 27's the bodyside windows don't look quite right next to the small grills. The bottom of the windows should be inline with the top of these little grills.

 

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Looks nearly like the real thing!

 

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Edited by brian daniels
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  • 2 weeks later...

Think that's about it  :locomotive:  Although I still need 2 door handles on one side and some long windscreen wipers, Laurie sent some but they were the short ones for 37/40, you need the ones from the Western. I keep looking at the body and finding small pinprick holes in the filling so seem to be forever filling and rubbing down :cray_mini:

 

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Steps changed, lifting lug added, airlines and sand gear added. Corners of the bufferbeam filed at the correct angle.

 

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Sanding valve casting is from the JLTRT class 20. I had to file away the front of the bogie sides to clear the snowplough brackets. I have also left off the front bogie frame bit as it just fouls on the plough brackets as well and to be honest you can't see it behind the ploughs.

 

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Door handles are bonnet handles from the JLTRT class 20. I only had two in the spares box so have ordered some more.

 

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Water tank brackets are from the JLTRT class 27.

 

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Battery box brackets are from the JLTRT class 33.

 

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Edited by brian daniels
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Think that's about it  :locomotive:  Although I still need 2 door handles on one side and some long windscreen wipers, Laurie sent some but they were the short ones for 37/40, you need the ones from the Western.

 

attachicon.gif2701.jpg

 

Steps changed, lifting lug added, airlines and sand gear added.

 

attachicon.gif2702.jpg

 

attachicon.gif2703.jpg

 

Sanding valve casting is from the JLTRT class 20. I had to file away the front of the bogie sides to clear the snowplough brackets. I have also left off the front bogie frame bit as it just fouls on the plough brackets as well and to be honest you can't see it behind the ploughs.

 

attachicon.gif2704.jpg

 

Door handles are bonnet handles from the JLTRT class 20. I only had two in the spares box so have ordered some more.

 

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Water tank brackets are from the JLTRT class 27.

 

attachicon.gif2706.jpg

 

Battery box brackets are from the JLTRT class 33.

 

attachicon.gif2707.jpg

Looking superb Brian!

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Think I have done all I can think of now. Should get some paint on it next week I hope.

 

I painted some Halfords primer on the bits that had a bit of filler on them to how bad my rubbing down was.

 

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Shawplan etched rad grill added and a bit of brass for the rad overflow. I glued the Heljan radiator grill mesh molding into the roof and then cut out the mesh bit leaving the outer ring in the roof. This was then filed down flush and the etch glued in place.

 

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Side grill mesh just resting in place to see what it looks like.

 

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Noticed that 27010 had a drain pipe along the solebar on one side.

 

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In my spares box I had these little lugs for the bogies so thought it would be a shame not to use them. The Heljan bogies are from their 33, close to a 26/7 but not quite close enough. It was a job to remove the larger molded lugs from the bogie sideframes without getting the knife dug into some other details. It should look ok when painted black and muck.

 

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Forgot to mention I also removed the two little safety clips on top of the batterybox etch overlay as if you look at the black and white picture of 27010 it did not have these at this time.

Edited by brian daniels
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Hi,

 

What type of buffers are these on the shock (ie in real life)? Been looking up possible variations for a Parkside standard GWR open on Paul Bartlett's site and a fair number have this type but no idea what I'm looking for.

 

Ta

Edited by Hal Nail
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Hi,

 

What type of buffers are these on the shock (ie in real life)? Been looking up possible variations for a Parkside standard GWR open on Paul Bartlett's site and a fair number have this type but no idea what I'm looking for.

 

Ta

 

Hello Hal,

 

I think that they are heavy duty self contained buffers, but I'm probable wrong. I must get up to speed on wagons.

 

OzzyO. 

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Hi chaps. The buffers on the shock opens are what came with them many years ago when these were sold as DA kits. But they do look a lot like these available from NMRS-Models. I have used these on my Bolster C and have bought these for an M&M Lowmac.

 

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I have weathered the Bolster C now.

 

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I see Ozzyo that you are building one of these Bolsters. I gave up with the two middle U shape frames down the underside as when I fitted them the body went like a boomerang and I could not get it back level. But unless you are into big de-railment's you can't see that they are not there. I also added Archers rivets on the solebar as they are devoid of any detail, they do show, just! Still have to chain the load down which is Plastruct sections.

 

 

post-6766-0-02362700-1486473653.jpg

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  • brian daniels changed the title to Brian's 7mm Diesel Workbench, Belated up-date!

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