Mr Grumpy Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 (edited) I'm trying not to be tempted Brian :-) It is certainly going together a lot quicker than the DJH variety!! BTW, welcome to the early retirement brigade!! I have NEVER looked back :-) Can't wait to see this finished... must resist...must resist !! Edit for ps...I absolutely love your 4TC and 33/1..... Edited September 6, 2017 by Mr Grumpy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted September 6, 2017 Author Share Posted September 6, 2017 (edited) I eventually found out it was easier to add the 4 inner brake blocks that attach to the rear of the sideframes first before you fit the sideframes to the end stretchers, checking that the wheels rotate as you go. I found that I had to file the blocks back a bit as they rubbed on the wheels. Then I added the outer brake blocks with the slack adjusters to the chassis. Once set then I attached the sideframes to the end stretchers whilst screwed into the inner bogie frame to hold it all square. The etched brass brake pull rods were then soldered on the outer brake hangers together with the safety strap. The handbrake linkages are glued into place. Airlines are made up of 5 castings that can be soldered together one at a time on the model. Just be careful with the iron and don't touch the resin! The airlines on 47004 are a bit unusual as the bogies are secondhand from an ex sandbox fitted 47. So the airlines go up and over the frames instead of along the face so as to clear the sandbox when it was there. Also of note is that the spring on the brake linkage on the corners of the sideframes were removed on these to make way for the sandbox but never put back so they are missing on these locos. The delrin cogs needed for these kits are 10 tooth ones. The one one the gearbox axle needs cutting back to fit. I fitted it with the teeth next to the gearbox and with the teeth next to the bearing on the leading axle. Edited September 6, 2017 by brian daniels 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted September 6, 2017 Author Share Posted September 6, 2017 (edited) Cab interiors can be put in after the model is painted. The glazing can be put in after painting too. I have painted this in all over cream as looking at my pictures I cannot see any evidence of a lower green band like these green locos had when built. Transfers on the rear bulkhead are from Railtec as are the dials. Before anyone tells me I know the dials are the wrong way round, they should be black with white increments but these don't really show up in this scale. But I stand to be corrected if you can show me otherwise. Unfortunately JLTRT did not supply the radio telephone handset but I had a couple from previous DJH kits. Had fun putting the windscreen wiper operating knob casting on! These closeups do show that a bit more touching up is in order with the paint brush. Edited September 6, 2017 by brian daniels 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted September 6, 2017 Author Share Posted September 6, 2017 I'm trying not to be tempted Brian :-) It is certainly going together a lot quicker than the DJH variety!! BTW, welcome to the early retirement brigade!! I have NEVER looked back :-) Can't wait to see this finished... must resist...must resist !! Edit for ps...I absolutely love your 4TC and 33/1..... It is going together quite quickly I suppose. Glad you liked the TC, it looks even better being pushed round a layout! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 It is going together quite quickly I suppose. Glad you liked the TC, it looks even better being pushed round a layout! Now you're just trying to make me jealous :-) Will you be taking it for a run at Hurley any time soon? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted September 6, 2017 Author Share Posted September 6, 2017 The kit has a nice set of castings for the pipework that comes out of the battery boxes. But it's for a 47401-420 generator. As you can see in the pictures the pipes go from the battery up to the lower bodyside where as on the series built locos it only goes over the top of the batteries. So I will make the pipe runs from wire. Some pictures of how it's all coming on. The buffers are only pushed in at the moment. The handrails are supplied as lost wax castings but I prefer nickle silver wire so these will all be changed. 17 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted September 6, 2017 Author Share Posted September 6, 2017 Now you're just trying to make me jealous :-) Will you be taking it for a run at Hurley any time soon? I wish, I don't think I can make the next couple of meetings. So much for being retired I still get things happening all at once. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 Nice work Brian, quick progress too?! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted September 7, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 7, 2017 Just out of interest, do you think the cabs would fit on a Heljan body? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted September 7, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 7, 2017 Brian......a word of warning.........you left the hotplate turned on! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted September 7, 2017 Author Share Posted September 7, 2017 That is not a cooker it's the supplementary heating device. It needs a can to go on it and a sound chip with the rattling lid when it boils. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted September 7, 2017 Author Share Posted September 7, 2017 I have today glued the cabs and roof to the sides and fitted a few more castings. Now I am away for a couple of weeks so no more progress unfortunately but here is something for you to ponder over. Can you get something to illuminate the headcode. It needs to give a nice even light to illuminate the old fashioned style numbers. There is not much depth if you drill out the headcode box, I don't want to make up a box arrangement in-front of the secondman to hide a light if I can get away with it, it needs something like a thin strip light? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 (edited) https://www.simplyplastics.com/catalog/acrylic-rod/c-24/c-82 Use Perspex or acrylic rod to feed the light up to the head code box. A small blow torch or similar will help to bend the rod to shape. Then add a light source and place to rod ends in front of it and the ends will glow in the head code box. You may want to add some black heat shrink sleeving over the rod after bending it. It is available in many colours too. http://modelshop.co.uk/Shop/Strip-Shape/Circular-Rod/Plastic/Item/Light-gathering-rod-4-0-1000mm/ITM3532 Best. Edited September 7, 2017 by Barnaby 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 These work very well Brian http://www.expressmodels.co.uk/acatalog/FLUORESCENT_TYPE_LED_LAMPS.html 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted September 17, 2017 Author Share Posted September 17, 2017 Thanks for the link Pete but I see they are 48mm long and the headcode box is only 23mm long. Can you cut them down? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 (edited) You cannot cut then down but you can fix them to a plasticard mounting for them to fit. The area that lights up is 30 mm long x 4mm wide. Edited September 17, 2017 by Pete Harvey Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 Those are pretty amazing and quite cheap too. LEDs have really come on in the last ten years. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted September 24, 2017 Author Share Posted September 24, 2017 (edited) After a nice break in Germany and Yorkshire I have been back at the 47. Found a way to fix the snowploughs by making a bracket out of some milled U channel I had and soldering the etched bracket to the top of them. They are fixed to the chassis with a small self tapper so can come off for painting. One slight problem though is that the handbrake gearbox is hitting one of the brackets as it turns. It might not matter on large radius curves but I think I will grind away the etch to get a bit more swing. All the bufferbeam detail now on Finally found where the small triangular casting goes by studying the instructions with a magnifying glass! Electrical conduit from the battery boxes made up from 1mm wire to represent a series parallel loco. Radio antenna is from my spares box is a DJH etch. Headcode made up on the computer. Edited September 24, 2017 by brian daniels 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted September 24, 2017 Share Posted September 24, 2017 Looking superb Brian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddys-blues Posted September 24, 2017 Share Posted September 24, 2017 (edited) For Heavens sake Man you need banning from this forum ....... oh Dear Lord please forgive me I am too weak to resist temptation Looks good Brian Craig. Edited September 24, 2017 by muddys-blues Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted September 24, 2017 Author Share Posted September 24, 2017 I am off to Devon next week so another bit of down time on this loco. This retirement lark is wearing me out, I'm never in! Whilst in Yorkshire I popped into the Embsay and Bolton Abbey Railway to see 47004. Looking a bit sad for it's self but doesn't look too bad but I think it should have been covered up. Looks like it's still got the Railmatch paint from 2000 when it was re-painted for the Old Oak open day. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted October 1, 2017 Author Share Posted October 1, 2017 I have now drilled out a tail light each end and fitted a red lighthouse LED and drilled the fronts for a DJH headlight casting. Couplings are CPL but mounted on the JLTRT hook as that is the correct size to go in the bufferbeam slot. Also added the little clips on the bogie corners that used to support a sandbox. Although 47004 never had sandboxes the bogies are off a loco that did hence also the lack of return springs for the brake rigging where the sandbox would sit. Had a look in my spares box and found a casting nearly like the drain pipe that was not included in the kit. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 Those photo comparisons show how good the model and modelling is....very nice! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard carr Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Brian This looks great, all your posts will save me hours when I get round to building mine. Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted October 3, 2017 Author Share Posted October 3, 2017 Brian This looks great, all your posts will save me hours when I get round to building mine. Richard The hours you have saved will go searching through this lot! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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