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Brian's 7mm Diesel Workbench, Belated up-date!


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Brian I dont think you have repositioned the red jumper on the sound card. If you havent then do it, the howes Class 26 sound file is awesome on the XL decoder with the correct positioning and the 40mm speaker.

 

 

Hi Cliff, I didnt know of this until I read your post then googled finding your railnuts blog,

sounds very interesting, Id like to try this on my class 40, and try one of those nice big speakers too :) it sounds great as is, but itd be nicer when louder for the clubrooms :)

 

 

Brian, sorry I remembered I already asked you about your 9f

 

cheers

 

Mike

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Loksound XL decoders:

Try it with the jumper off as the impedence incompatibility muffles the sound files and you are not getting the proper effect.

On my RJH Class 26 with Howes Class 26 sound files I set CV63 to 20 when in my garage which is enough, for bigger venues put CV 63 to 25, this should be a brave enough setting.

 

I even drop CV63 to 15 if I want a quieter run at night, the band for CV63 is 1 to 64.

Hope it helps!

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Loksound XL decoders:

Try it with the jumper off as the impedence incompatibility muffles the sound files and you are not getting the proper effect.

On my RJH Class 26 with Howes Class 26 sound files I set CV63 to 20 when in my garage which is enough, for bigger venues put CV 63 to 25, this should be a brave enough setting.

 

I even drop CV63 to 15 if I want a quieter run at night, the band for CV63 is 1 to 64.

Hope it helps!

 

 

I will remove the pin on my 26 later and give it a run on the DC (why is there never a DCC controlled test track these days?) test track tomorrow at Reading, should turn a few heads! I get Howes to program F8 to toggle through 4 automatic settings for the volume. Just press F8 and the volume increases up to 4 times. It's a lot easier than keep resetting CV's. I think this option is only available on the XL chips.

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Bloomin' annoyed about Reading, unfortunately I have been seconded away to Northampton for the weekend. Would have loved to have seen and heard your 26 Brian, no video can give the same impression as hearing it live.

 

Oh well....always next year.

 

Best regards David

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At Reading on Saturday I purchased 4 Warflat kits from Appleby Models. I still need to get some wheels for them, since ordered from Slaters, and some couplings which I have ordered from Appleby. As the wheels are "Lowmac" small wheels they will be missing the diac pads so I will try and see if a friend can etch me some and also some worksplates. Probably do with a label clip as well. Why do wagon kits rarley come with label clips as they all had them? I have been building today and am now adding some air pipe work around the distributor and variable loading valves. One nice touch is that it has a scribed wooden deck. Appleby did say they are doing the Warwell to go with these, now they will look nice in 7mm. Anyone do a little tank in 7mm?

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We do have one or two Warflats/wells through Didcotsmile.gif Appleby is still doing 7mm kits. Not many in the list I just got of him on Saturday but he does list all maner of small parts including most types of bogies, loads of buffers and couplings. He also does quite a few transfers for air braked stock.

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Well the Warflat is as good as done in 2 days! Have ordered some Slaters wheels for it then only have to solder the 2 sideframes to the bolsters. I have added a bit of wiring for the air pipe runs under the deck. Anyone know how to stain the wood deck to look like old wood?

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Hi Brian,

 

a goodly two days modelling there. I have used brown shoe polish in the past with some black and blue rubbed in for good measure. If you have not fixed the deck in position yet, give it a try on the back first - no need to bull it up though - unless your going to go on parade!

 

regards

 

Mike

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Hi Brian. How are you going to stop the oval buffers turning? The left hand one in the top model looks odd.

 

Staining wood: Wickes do a substance for fences, it replaced creosote. Use the darkest available. Colron also do wood dyes, available from B&Q, Homebase etc, use dark oak.

 

I have kept a few pints of GENUINE creosote for this purpose, and to have the smell of genuine creosoted wood in my model PW yard.

 

And yes, I KNW it's not nice stuff. Thanks.

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Mike, I have just filed the top of the buffers flat and soldered a wire from one nut to the other nutwacko.gif which stops them turning. Should sun bleached wood be more of a grey colour rather than a brown type stain? By the way the wood deck is not glued on until after painting. Then there is a piece of L shape brass to paint green and then glue on the side of the wood after it's all done which stops the ends of the planks getting damaged. Attached a couple of pics that hopefully show the greyish look to the decking.

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Washes of light grey and white would work - it should soak into the wood and eventually it'll take on the right colour. Darker washes and powders can then be used over that to get the final effect. I did a similar thing here:

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But started off by painting the whole deck off-white, as it's plastic and not actual wood. I've then added ink washes to grey it.

 

HTH

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Hi Brian,

 

I have looked in my paint stock drawer and guess what I found - Tamiya XF 55 Deck Tan - a thinned down version looks good against the photos above.

 

 

On another tack, I have started a JLTRT Class 40 - D232 and have motorised the bogies, fitted them to the chassis (without the pony trucks) and given them a quick run and they do not seem to the generous curves on my little test track. I am taking it down to the Club this evening for an extended trial and will let you know how I get on. There is no sideplay whatsoever on the leading and trailing axles, obviously there cannot be any on the motorised axle, but have you filed down the outside bearing face of the leading axle to give you some sideplay or does the pony truck do this for you - as it should? Sorry to highjack the thread.

 

Best of luck with it.

 

regards

 

Mike

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That bogie bolster looks superb Pugsley. Must go and get some acrylic greys to play around with.

 

Mike I have not filed any bits off the 40 bogies but you are right there ain't a lot of room in there for cornering. These locos realy need a 6' radius and no tight spots! The resin/plastic bogie construction does take up some room that could be used for sideplay as the peak bogies that are etched construction do go round corners better. I don't know what the answer is though.

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Hi Brian,

 

thanks for the reply. I took it to the club last night and tried it on the outer track which is about 6'6" radius and it came off on the curves. I have this morning built up and fitted the pony trucks and it runs ok on my test track so I'm hopeful of it doing a complete circuit at the club this afternoon - I'll keep you posted.

 

regards

 

Mike

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Hi Brian,

 

The wednesday trial running was fine - on Thursday, I built the bogie outer frames and left them to cure overnight, fitted them on Friday along with most of the external body castings and again took it to the club for testing - disaster!! It seems that the lower face of the chassis is bearing down on the shock absorber plates causing the rear axles to lift off the track and therefore the loco is not tegotiating curves at all. The remedy seems to put a bearing plate (spacer) on the pivot plate, thickness to be determined by trial and error. Have you come across this in any of your 40 builds? There is no up/down movement on the bogie at all which would suggest that the spacer is the required remedy.

 

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No 2 end bogie detail showing shock absorber plate touching chassis

 

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overall braodside view

 

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No 1 end detail

 

any thoughts/comments would be apreciated

 

regards

 

Mike

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It is a bit close under there isn't it Mike. I am sure I filed the round bit that sticks up on the bogie down a bit to lower the casting. I might also have filed the chassis pad down/up a bit to gain a bit more clearance above the casting. Basicaly though that's all that can be done, file something away here and there. Oh and yes I did put a washer between the bogie pivot and chassis. There is nothing wrong your building it is the prototypical gap or lack of it that is at fault. Apart from that it's looking the part. First one Iv'e seen with the bogie lubricator on.

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Hi Brian,

 

thanks for putting my mind at rest. You will have noted that there are only sandboxes on the outer ends - despite the fact that the kit was ordered as an 'as built' prototype, JLTRT only packed 4 sandboxes! - I've asked Laurie to send me the missing ones and also a replacement shock absorber pad as to add insult to injury, I lost one at the club last nighthuh.gif

 

Talking of sandboxes, why do JLTRT say that the pipework cannot be fitted to the outer bogie if you are going to take the inner chassis out in the future - it - the pipework is surely all fitted to the outside of the bogie frame. I can understand that fitting the bogie to body jumper cable needs careful thinking about.

 

By the way, I have started a Workshop Blog for the 40at present, it gives details of the electrical pick-up - no plungers and through the bogie pivot boltrolleyes.gif rolleyes.gif

 

Again, many thanks for the input.

 

regards

 

Mike

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The trouble with them blog thingies is that we can't add to it only the person whos blog it is whereas this style thread we can comment and go off on tangents and things till the cows come homeicon_thumbsup2.gif

 

The MU cable casting is fully on the bogie and does not make any problems later. I assume they thought the sandpipes would get in the way but a bit of carefull pulling and poking gets the sideframes off easily. I think I lift the back off first then mor or less slide the front off. Been a while since I took one apart, thank god!

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Hi Brian,

 

I totally agree with you and will post all future 'Workshop' entries on this general forum.

 

Thanks for the notes about the MU cable and the sandpipes - I have also been 'mating' the inner and outer chassis pieces as you describe and will hopefully not have to do it for much longer.

 

regards

 

Mike

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Mike, Brian, this is all good stuff.....I am presently awaiting delivery of my ABC gears powered bogie for my 40 and enjoy gleaning information like this before plunging headlong into disaster :D

 

As to the SA pads, I assume the pad travels further than the underframe and catches "on the way back", if thats the case maybe a thin piece of brass soldered across from one pad to the other would keep a continous bearing surface available for the pads to slide over? I havent got any where near to trying even a dry assembly on the frames and undertray as yet but hope to get a little modelling done over the Christmas break, I wish I had the hours you seem to dedicate Brian.....I think I managed to pop into the railway shed for about an hour last week :(

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