Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Looking good so far Brian. I've always wished JLTRT would design their motor bogies with U shaped holes for the bearings to fit from below. A keeper plate could then be fitted to retain the bearings/axles. It would make fitting the delrin drives a bit easier if you see what I mean as the whole thing could be "chained" on the bench then dropped in from below. Makes sense to me anyhoo :jester:

JF

Link to post
Share on other sites

Brian,

 

Very nice work! 

 

Arnt the JLTRT Class 24's and 25s the same in terms of having to fit the windows before painting?

 

ATVB

 

CME

Ah, not sure about the 52 and the 25 but the 24 , with a bit of careful filing/shaping of the edges it's possible to make the bulkheads a clip in affair. This means you can make up the bodyshell/cab assembly, paint it, then glaze it and add the bulkheads and side desk units afterwards. It's a bit of a nail-biter easing them in afterwards but I just managed them without any of the anticipated CRACK :scared:  noises (phew)..

Jon F.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes CME and their 52.

 

I just wish they would have made the sideframes fit with a screw or something so you can remove them easily.

Could you temporarily assemble the sides to the bogie, drill through the bogie moulding and through the locating pin on the side frames and screw a 12 or 14 ba bolt through the lot? 

post-7179-0-81783000-1423932748.jpg

JF

Edited by Jon Fitness
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Could you temporarily assemble the sides to the bogie, drill through the bogie moulding and through the locating pin on the side frames and screw a 12 or 14 ba bolt through the lot? 

attachicon.gifpost-6766-0-08414800-1423921602.jpg

JF

 

Have you been reading my mind Jon? I was thinking how nice it would be to replace the spigots with a brass one, a bit bigger and then as you say drill a hole for a pin or 12ba bolt.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Another session on the 22.

 

Fitted the roof etches.

 

post-6766-0-45762100-1424019410.jpg

 

post-6766-0-06443100-1424019415.jpg

 

Bufferbeams attached but they needed a bit of filing to get a good fit with the cabs.

 

post-6766-0-11434200-1424019439.jpg

 

post-6766-0-00172000-1424019440.jpg

 

Finished the bogie sideframe details with the air cylinders and lifeguards.

 

post-6766-0-29483000-1424019416.jpg

 

post-6766-0-54385300-1424019417.jpg

 

I added the buffer heads to the shanks and stopped them turning by the old fashioned way with a piece of wire between the two rear shafts. Thankfully there is a slot between the floor and chassis for the wire to sit in.

 

post-6766-0-70345300-1424019419.jpg

 

post-6766-0-37335100-1424019421.jpg

 

post-6766-0-73200200-1424019422.jpg

 

post-6766-0-50008500-1424019413.jpg

 

post-6766-0-96226800-1424019411.jpg

 

When the cab interior is slotted in it is a pig to get out again as the side windows that are further in at the bottom than the top get in the way. It takes a bit of twisting to get the things out again.

 

post-6766-0-92966600-1424019408.jpg

  • Like 17
Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you been reading my mind Jon? I was thinking how nice it would be to replace the spigots with a brass one, a bit bigger and then as you say drill a hole for a pin or 12ba bolt.

:sungum: Lol! It's the same with the 24 too. I tried my best to make the bogie sides removeable but gave up eventually and glued them on and crossed my fingers in the hope I never need to get to the wheels.!

I think Mickoo's version on WT is a far more robust and elegant solution than mine but whatever works.....

I still love the speed at which it's possible to assemble these kits though; I'm waiting for the D600 Warship for my next purchase :locomotive:

JF

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Spent almost the entire weekend plumbing, so only just come across this.

 

for fixing the bogie side frames, I'd carve off the resin spigots and replace with longer ones from brass rod.

 

Then drill down through the resin and tap a 10BA screw in place to hold them.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Would the resin take to being tapped and a screw used? I'd imagine the tread would strip really easily. Just thinking loud here really....

 

I have a similar problem traing to attach the JLTRT bogie side frames to a pair of ABC power bogies on my JLTRT class 50. Has me completely stumped at the moment. Any ideas gratefully received. Appologies to Brian for the mini-thread hijack!

Edited by admiles
Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you been reading my mind Jon? I was thinking how nice it would be to replace the spigots with a brass one, a bit bigger and then as you say drill a hole for a pin or 12ba bolt.

 

Would you need to put the pin/bolt through the spigot, or just thread a hole so the screw presses against the spigot and holds it in place.  Wouldn't need to tighten it too much since there's no forces working against the bogie sideframe.  After all, we usually don't drill through axles to attach the drive gears, we just use a set screw pressing against the axle...

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Well I have done the bogie sideframe fixings on one bogie. I used some 2.4mm K&S brass rod, drilled and tapped the end 12BA and glued it into the sideframe. The locating holes on the bogie were enlarged and a verticle hole drilled to pass the 12BA bolt through. I am not worried about countersinking the bolt as you can't see it under the body.

 

Well I was at it I tested out a pick-up glued through the centre spring casting. One problem with the Slaters wheels is that there is a rather large V molded into the steel wheel rim to stop the centres from turning. This does not give you much room for a plunger pick-up to miss this plastic V. And as you have to drill your own holes for plunger pick-ups on this model i just know mine would be rubbing over the plastic. So I opted for a phospher bronze wiper that I could bend up to miss the plastic V. I had to bend it a bit more to miss the brake blocks when the sideframes are on hence why it looks a bit bent. I still have not got the motors and gearboxes yet!

post-6766-0-90306100-1425155442.jpg

post-6766-0-70424400-1425155443.jpg

post-6766-0-67159200-1425155444.jpg

post-6766-0-56618800-1425155445.jpg

post-6766-0-51380400-1425155446.jpg

post-6766-0-37794200-1425155447.jpg

post-6766-0-18964600-1425155448.jpg

  • Like 11
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Managed to grab some time and get the 22 motorized with a couple of Machimas and Roxey 13:1 gearboxes that I got at Kettering. There is already a hole in the top of the bogie to take an ABC motor/gearbox but it needs opening a little to fit the Roxey box.

 

post-6766-0-76334200-1426263654.jpg

 

post-6766-0-48149600-1426263656.jpg

 

As you can see when the sideframes are on the pick-ups and Delrin do not show.

 

post-6766-0-18166100-1426263658.jpg

 

The Delrin was just right with no slack dangling.

 

post-6766-0-28993400-1426263659.jpg

 

The wiper pick-ups just clear the V in the Slaters rims.

 

post-6766-0-52396500-1426263663.jpg

 

After making the sideframes detachable once you secure the brake pull rod behind the wheel they won't come off!

 

post-6766-0-15785200-1426263665.jpg

 

Pick-ups just clear the brake castings.

 

post-6766-0-92693900-1426263666.jpg

 

  • Like 11
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Brian,

 

many thanks for posting the progress pictures, they will be a great help when I start mine,(should be with me sometime this coming week).

 

On the last but one photo in your last post - showing the brake pull rod, could you show do a picture showing how the rod fixes to the front beam - I am thinking ahead t doing a similar fixing as you have done for the frame sides to the main bogie

body.

 

cheers

 

Mike

Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice, Brian.

 

Was the fit of the Delrin perfect  by chance, what would you have done had it been loose, and would it have mattered if the pickups touch the brake castings?

Edited by JeffP
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Brian,

 

it looks like you could have used Gibson 4mm plunger pick-ups on the outer edges of the wheels, looks like you have a good bit of inside frame there.

 

OzzyO.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice, Brian.

 

Was the fit of the Delrin perfect  by chance, what would you have done had it been loose, and would it have mattered if the pickups touch the brake castings?

 

I will give JLTRT a pat on the back and say that the Delrin chain tension was designed to be just right  :mail:  If it was a bit saggy I would have had to have made a support for it somehow. It does not matter if the pick-ups touch the brakes as it won't short due to the resin bogie but it might stop it working properly. Never thought of using 4mm plunger Ozzyo.

 

I am still working out how to illuminate the headcode boxes and stop the light from going everywhere and to try and make it so you stand a chance of changing an LED should it be needed in the future hence why the cabs have not been put together just yet.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • brian daniels changed the title to Brian's 7mm Diesel Workbench, Belated up-date!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...