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Brian's 7mm Diesel Workbench, Belated up-date!


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Well the Westerns Blue and the black bits are Black, just need to mask up the ends for the yellow.

 

I will try other things for the windscreen demister elements as the glazing sheet that came with the 27 had a great big scratch across it so most of it was unusable but ok to experiment with, Laurie is sending a replacement.

 

Why does the BR Blue come out so light until you weather it?

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Well the Westerns Blue and the black bits are Black, just need to mask up the ends for the yellow.

 

I will try other things for the windscreen demister elements as the glazing sheet that came with the 27 had a great big scratch across it so most of it was unusable but ok to experiment with, Laurie is sending a replacement.

 

Why does the BR Blue come out so light until you weather it?

Hi Brian,

 

IMHO, your model-making is 2nd to none, yet those demister/heater elements are way too over-scale, if other methods dont bear fruit then may I be so presumptuous to suggest that such are left off altogether, until such a time as a better solution is found?

 

Kindest,

 

CME

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Well the Westerns Blue and the black bits are Black, just need to mask up the ends for the yellow.

 

I will try other things for the windscreen demister elements as the glazing sheet that came with the 27 had a great big scratch across it so most of it was unusable but ok to experiment with, Laurie is sending a replacement.

 

Why does the BR Blue come out so light until you weather it?

 

Where are the pictures then?

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The thing abouit Brian's modelling is, it's cutting edge.

 

Yes, some bits like the heater elements don't work that well, but the rest?

 

Let me at it.

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The blue picture above Pete of 27030 looks very light to me but it will darken once I rub some browns and dark greys into it.

 

I have some Overland US diesels that have the windscreen heater elements on them and it does make a difference having them there so I will keep at it.

 

Getting some inspiration at the Nene Valley diesel gala tomorrow :biggrin_mini2:

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Hi Brian, hi all,

 

Here is a link for the types of pen that the Scalectrix/Slot-car boys and girls use to very good effect.

 

I have been 'watching' on Ebay with a view for using such for specific finishing techniques.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290731952335?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&var=590072808039&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

In haste, with kind regards,

 

CME

Edited by CME and Bottlewasher
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Brian

 

I think you could use fine wire. Then you could wire them up and make them work. So if you left the loco out all night and the windows froze you would have prototypical de-misting. Now that would be cutting edge! for DCC use you could assign a function to it and turn on and off to suit Ha ha!

 

Paul R (posted tongue in cheek and in the knowledge someone will probably take up the challenge!)

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It could be a problem if Brian uses plastic for the windows, but if he uses microscope slide glass it could work.

 

OzzyO.

 

PS. I'll have to go now as them nice men in the white coats have come to see me.

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Noooooooooooo what have I started  :jester:

 

Thanks for all the ideas chaps, when I get time I will try something. I do like those fine pens CME.

 

I was just masking up the blue Western to paint the ends white then yellow and just happened to look at a Western book of a picture of D1071 and noticed it did not have the headboard clips on one end. So out with the pliers and remove them and then fill in the holes. That was close as I had not quite got the ends painted. Phew!

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Noooooooooooo what have I started  :jester:

 

Thanks for all the ideas chaps, when I get time I will try something. I do like those fine pens CME.

 

I was just masking up the blue Western to paint the ends white then yellow and just happened to look at a Western book of a picture of D1071 and noticed it did not have the headboard clips on one end. So out with the pliers and remove them and then fill in the holes. That was close as I had not quite got the ends painted. Phew!

You are most welcome Brian.

 

My mates - who take slot car racing to the next level - marvel at we do in 7mm, but they have some great ideas of their own, IIRC they use those fineline pens for the chrome window surrounds on some of the 1960's and 1970's models they make and super-detail.

 

Looking forward to seeing how you get on with them.

 

Kindest,

 

CME

Edited by CME and Bottlewasher
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Brian that Class 27 looks wonderful. Theres something about the accuracy and finess of JLTRT models that has not yet been replicated in RTR form. Perhaps one day I will have go at one myself but just too many steam outline waiting in the cupboard

By and large I would agree, with the exception of the Heljan Hymek, whereby the body has the edge over the JLTRT version.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Brian,

 

Any chance of a quick run down of your cleaning, prep and painting methods for your locos including weathering?

 

ie Rattle-can or Airbrush for main livery, preferred primer and primer colour, which colours get laid down first, what lacquers or varnishes are used, which decals/transfers are preferred etc etc.

 

Thanks in anticipation.

 

ATVB

 

CME

Edited by CME and Bottlewasher
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Ok will do CME but not just yet, off to work now then I will be "playing trains" this weekend at my mates on Saturday and Bourne End O Gauge running day on Sunday.

 

And hopefully I will have another new "Toy" later today if the delivery driver does his bit.

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Ok will do CME but not just yet, off to work now then I will be "playing trains" this weekend at my mates on Saturday and Bourne End O Gauge running day on Sunday.

 

And hopefully I will have another new "Toy" later today if the delivery driver does his bit.

Hi Brian,

 

Indeed, I meant when you tackle a loco or coach next.

 

Enjoy your weekend - you lucky chap.

 

ATVB, with thanks,

 

CME

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Here is my latest toy, an MTH Obb 1020 Electric. It runs off DC, DCC and MTH's DCS, oh and the overheads! It's very heavy as it's all die cast, even the bogie sideframes! Which unfortunately means the details a bit flat on the bogies but I hope a bit of weathering will bring it out. The pantographs raise and lower when you change direction. There is sound on it which consists of a blower that seems to run at a constant speed/pitch regardless of loco speed, probably correct though. On DCC there is also a whistle and a lot of German chatter from the crew, it's an American thing that they seem to like your loco saying "All aboard" at all that  :dontknow:  It also had the Lenz style "Hornby" tension lock couplings that did have an electro magnet to operate them. To remove these to add the screw couplings you have to cut the wires to the electro magnet so they won't be working again! It also leaves a big hole in the snow plough  :nono:  The first thing I had to do to it was take the body off to replace two side windows that had been dislodged, that was fun. I am not too sure on the font used for the numbers. I could get some more made but what orange have they used. Maybe if I paint a nice rectangle of orange and put a new number over it we could get away with saying it's a depot re-paint/re-number? Do I add the little windshields either side of the doors? Trouble is I know they would get knocked off in 5 minutes.

 

Needs weathering though doesn't it.

 

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Next to an MTH gondola wagon.

 

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Next to a Pete Harvey IWB van.

 

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Switches under a roof hatch that's secured with little magnets.

 

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Some real 1020's

 

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post-6766-0-66917200-1430059278.jpg

 

post-6766-0-05014300-1430059280.jpg

 

post-6766-0-21990600-1430059281.jpg

Edited by brian daniels
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