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Brian's 7mm Diesel Workbench, Belated up-date!


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Great work Brian as always.

 

Only thing missing is the kick mark on the left side of the doors. If you remember the doors were always stiff to open and invariably needed a couple of kicks on the handle side to open whilst holding on to the handrails usually with our bags in hand as well. Very precarious!!

 

Pete.

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Great work Brian as always.

 

Only thing missing is the kick mark on the left side of the doors. If you remember the doors were always stiff to open and invariably needed a couple of kicks on the handle side to open whilst holding on to the handrails usually with our bags in hand as well. Very precarious!!

 

Pete.

 

I had noticed the kick mark Pete on the pic I have of 31418 and think I should do it by rubbing with a fibreglass pen back to the primer/metal. I still have to get hold of some small plasticard strip and paint silver to put at the top of the cab side windows that drop down. I certainly remember trying to get in these doors with a big boot to help thing on their way. Also remember these must be the widest handrails on a loco.

 

Don't know if I can do a pictorial of the weathering process as I am usually covered in paint and thinners and would not like to get it on a camera. What I do for the weathering is basicaly spray weathered coloured paint on it and wipe off with a paper tissue soaked in thinners in downward strokes. After spraying the yellow front with Frame Dirt I used a paint brush dipped in thinners to wipe it off and dab a tissue around it to get the "eccess" thinners off. One thing to whatch though is don't wipe thinners over one of Preccision Decals tops panels unless it's varnished as it will just break up otherwise (Don't ask how I know thissad.gif ). I will have my JLTRT 26012 to do in a few weeks so I might get a friend to hold a camera maybe?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Recieved a parcel this week with my order from ASAM Models with some 1/48th Land Rover Ambulance, Scorpion Tanks and Saxon APC kits. As you can see from the pictures the Land Rover is resin and the Saxon/Scorpion are white metal, and heavy! This train of warflats is definatly going to be pulled by a Heljan loco me thinks. It's going to be interesting building these kits as the Land Rover has proper instructions but the white metal Saxon and Scorpion only have a picture of a finished model to work fromohmy.gif And my knowledge of Army vehicles is "not a lot" as they say.

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  • 3 weeks later...

My train of Warflats is slowly coming on. I have finished building and painting all the vehicles and they just await a coat of varnish now. Could not wait though to see what they looked like on the wagons so I put the tyres back on the ambulances to see what they are like. Must say I am very pleased with it. I will have a wagon on show at the ALSRM show at Reading on the 8/5/10

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the 27 in bits makes me want to do another kit, the quality as you open the box is superb.

 

had my 40 running on Mike Williams DCC rollers on the Gauge O guild stand at the Liverpool show last weekend.

and has made me want to do another jltrt kit one day.

 

Love the army vehicles too!

 

Mike

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I'll be watching the 27 build closely. I'd been thinking that this kit could be the one that finally made me dip a toe into O gauge but I've been dissapointed with the look of the slide windows on the cab side. My chosen loco would be ex Thornaby non boilered 27024 with drop windows so I'll be keen to see how they look on the kit.

 

Off topic but still 7mm related, have you any experience of ABS 7mm wagon kits? If I go 7mm I'll be needing some highfits and ABS do the only kit. Is it a decent kit and is it easy enough to fit Bill Bedfords suspension to? I've used a fair amount of ABS bits and pieces in 4mm and found them to be very good quality so I have no reason to think the big stuff would be any different but I do wonder how heavy a whitemetal kit in 7mm is going to end up.

 

Cheers

 

David

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Hi Brian,

The warflats and vehicles look great, used to see them daily when I worked up Eastleigh Yard.

The 27 kit looks good I didn't now they came with glazing, nice. I will have another look at your thread next week as you will probably have it almost finshed by then.laugh.gif

 

Cheers Peter,

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Alcazar, I know what you mean about getting back to loco building as I am glad I have finished the Warflats and vehicles but if you want to pull something it has to be done. Whilst doing the wagons I was also finshing off 2 JLTRT 26's as 26012 and 26037 they just need some dry brushing to finish them off. Picture added now showing the 27 "clipped" together which shows the side window on this kit. On the 26/0 I had to make the side window bigger but it looks like they got it right first time on this kit. A couple of pictures showing the tail light covers that as you can see have a round recess on the rear which if you can cut a circle of clear stuff painted red on the rear should make a good red tail light with a red LED behind for illumination.

 

Waveydavey, I too was thinking about doing an NB one or maybe a 27/1 ready for a push pull set as JLTRT are doing the 27/2 later. As to ABS kits I have done a couple a few years ago and have had no problems with them whaterver. The weight of them has never been an issue. I do not know how Bill Bedford compensation units would be fixed to them though.

 

PCM, all JLTRT kits come with lazer cut glazing (well apart from the early kits like the peaks that have injection moulded clear plastic and the 52, 24 and 25 that had punched out plastic glazing and I don't know if they have been updated with lazer cut stuff)

 

I am at Reading this Saturday demoing with, well I recon it might be a 27wink.gif

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Great choice Brian, this would be mine;

 

http://diesel-image-gallery.fotopic.net/p48215445.html

 

5411 before being 27117 / 211 / 065 - as in your own pic http://briandaniels.fotopic.net/p18715052.html

 

All you'll need (apart from the other end), is Pete to produce a Mark II BSO, FK & (4) TSO for you! - getting someone to produce a sound chip with the Deutz engine running could be somewhat problematic smile.gif never mind the length of track you'll need to run it on!

 

Beware the dreaded ETH jumper minefield! and spot the additional conduit running along the solebar of 5411!

 

 

 

 

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Nice picture that 5411 Bob. I had noticed the long orange conduit on the 27/2's and also a shorter one on the 27/1's. The 27/2's also apear to have a box section along the length of their solebars. Also noted some 27's, mainly high numbered ones have a cutout in the boiler tank one side. And also noted the 27/1 have a boiler gauge missing one side and the 27/2's have no boiler gauges (no surprise there realy).

Does anyone have a shot showing the boiler tank filler as the kit does not have one. I will make one as it just seams to be a rectangular flap type thing. Also anyone got any rear cab bulkhead shots as I have nothing for a 27.

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Done a bit more to the 27 including getting the bogies running. You have to solder up the brass bolster for this. I use a Mashima motor and a Roxey fold up etch gearbox so this neds soldering as well. These motor/gearbox combinations cost about £33 per bogie. The wheels are from Roxey as well as these are half the price of Slaters. They need a bit of fettling to get them in though as they need a fibre washer on the insulated side but this then makes that side stick out too far so the bearing needs filing back to compensate. I also solder a piece of 1mm wire into the bearing to act as a rod to solder a pick-up wire onto. It also acts as a point to attach a croc clip to later to run the chassis to clean the wheels.

I have also devised a Mk II tail light. The red LED was larger than I thought and sits quite nicely in the tail light casting. The rear of the LED sticks into the cab control desk a bit but after drilling a hole for them to go through you cannot see them through the side windows, especially when the cab seats are in place. The lamp brackets should be on a little pad so as not to point sideways with the curvature of the body. These pads were on the 26 but don't appear on the 27 kits. So a pad of plasticard has been put behind the tail lamp. As you can see the buffers and steps above them are on. I have also done the fuel and boiler tanks.

 

Oh well back to the workbench.

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Been sticking a few more bits on this afternoon. I have done the bogies down one side leaving the other side untill tomorrows demoing at Reading. The tanks are finished although I have left the water tank gauge off on one side just incase I decide to do 27/1 as it will need filling one side. One thing that has been added on the 27 kit as opposed to the26 kit is better sanding gear including some nice support brackets.

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Brian

 

Fabulous stuff as always!!...but which of your cameras are you using for the close-ups? The G10? They're superb!!

 

Tim

 

Yes Tim I am using my G10 on all my model pics these days. Those close ups don't half show any blemishes don't theyblink.gif

 

Another little bit done to 27101, well that's what I think it will be as I have filled in a boiler tank gauge one side so it's got to be a 27/1 now. On the pic showing the MU jumper on the buffer beam you can see that I have angled it slightly as per the prototype by soldering it to a piece of brass 3mmX1mm angle ( I think that's the size, it's just a piece out of the bits and bobs store that's just right). Tank detail is done but I will have to have a go at making the rectangular boiler filler on top of the tank and as it's a 27/1 there is an electricle conduit above the tanks one side to put on. The bogie picture shows that in the kit there were some brass lugs that I did not know where they went. Thankfully Laurie at JLTRT told me they go just inboard of the life guards and after looking at pictures just managed to see one fitted to 27020 in 1979 but can't see any after that date but you can see the base plate for them on front of the bogies. I have just put one on with blue tack just to show where it goes. I have put some straight windy wipers on, one end so far, as in BR Blue days this is what they had. I am painting the rear cab bulkheads now so when they are done I can glue the body together.

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