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Brian's 7mm Diesel Workbench, Belated up-date!


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It was a shame to repaint the beautiful LoadHaul 56 but I can see your point. It's more satisfying to keep to a particular era at the end of the day. The North Wales line in the 1990's was awash with old and new liveries and it was easy to forget which ones were the heritate colours after a while.

 

The painting and weathering is an inspiration Brian....As real as it gets under the magnified eye of the digital camera.

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Hi Brian :)

 

Am I correct in thinking that the JLTRT MK1's require the windows to be - from your comments - prefitted before painting ala the old system as used by Easybuild?

 

......Also what sort of H&S precautions do you take for/when spraying Railmatch paints (as they contain lead)?

 

ATB

 

CME :)

 

Ah CME I did not make myself very clear there did I. I should have said window apertures were masked from inside. I also placed the roof on so I did not have to mask off the interior from the top. The windows are clear injection mouds that can be glued in after painting. If you look back at page 8 on this thread there are pictures of the windows in the raw. It was a bit of a squeeze to get my finger and a window with glue on the outside ledge down between the corridor side but I managed it ok. I will take a few pictures of the RMB build soon to show what is involved with a JLTRT kit.

 

I should take more pictures when I do things like the painting but I tend to just get on with it I'm affraid.

 

What H&S precautions do I take? Probably not enough :( Just stick a mask on that should do. I paint my primer on outside but do the spraying of the enamels in the attic, except in the summer when it's so hot up there the paint would dry before it gets to the model!

 

If I remember right the bloke in Howes told me that none of the Railmatch paints contain lead anymore. They spray ok but tend to take a couple or more coats if brushing some colours.

 

Coachman, re-spraying some of your older models is a cheap way of getting a new(ish) model I think. I will be re-painting my green 121 railcar and a chocolate/cream inspection saloon into blue grey after I have done the 56.

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Ah CME I did not make myself very clear there did I. I should have said window apertures were masked from inside. I also placed the roof on so I did not have to mask off the interior from the top. The windows are clear injection mouds that can be glued in after painting. If you look back at page 8 on this thread there are pictures of the windows in the raw. It was a bit of a squeeze to get my finger and a window with glue on the outside ledge down between the corridor side but I managed it ok. I will take a few pictures of the RMB build soon to show what is involved with a JLTRT kit.

 

I should take more pictures when I do things like the painting but I tend to just get on with it I'm affraid.

 

What H&S precautions do I take? Probably not enough :( Just stick a mask on that should do. I paint my primer on outside but do the spraying of the enamels in the attic, except in the summer when it's so hot up there the paint would dry before it gets to the model!

 

If I remember right the bloke in Howes told me that none of the Railmatch paints contain lead anymore. They spray ok but tend to take a couple or more coats if brushing some colours.

 

Coachman, re-spraying some of your older models is a cheap way of getting a new(ish) model I think. I will be re-painting my green 121 railcar and a chocolate/cream inspection saloon into blue grey after I have done the 56.

 

Hi Brian,

 

Thanks- I know what you mean it is a real challenge to juggle modelling and taking photos - especially when paint is involved :).

 

I have found the same issues with Howes paints when brushing on etc......also with the cans one has to keep the nozzles very clean.

 

I use various masks etc. and a make-shift booth......considering one of the budget booths.........I was just wondering if the 'modern' disposable (and twin filter masks) cater for the particulate issues - size wise - for lead chromate etc.....I thought that most paints had had such removed, thanks for the info though.

 

A repaint is a good form of recyling and a brave, yet pragmatic idea :)

 

ATVB

 

CME :)

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The 56 re-paint has taken a back seat at the mo as I am building this JLTRT RMB. When I bought this I did not relize that the Commonwealth bogies are actually sprung! Mind you it needs a bit of weight on it to compress the springs. A little problem to overcome was that the coack rides hight on the bogies so i had to remove a bit of the bolster under the coach. The BSK I did earlier with the B1 bogies had to be packed up as that was too low! I have been busy painting the interiors at the moment but will soon be able to glue the sides and ends to the chassis as I did for the BSK. I have replaced the vac cylinder and dynamo with some spare Westdale ones I had.

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Brian

 

Its starting to look good.

 

I made up some of the commonwealth bogies a few weeks ago and found that I had to shorten the springs as they were the cause of the bogies riding too high, I cut 2 coils off each spring that left just enough movement in the bogie without requiring a lot of compression, they work really well.

 

 

Richard.

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Brian

 

Its starting to look good.

 

I made up some of the commonwealth bogies a few weeks ago and found that I had to shorten the springs as they were the cause of the bogies riding too high, I cut 2 coils off each spring that left just enough movement in the bogie without requiring a lot of compression, they work really well.

 

 

Richard.

 

:cray_mini2: Doh! Now why didn't I think to make the springs shorter? Now should I do it to reagain the gap between the top of the bogie and the bottom of the solebar. When I bought this it was secondhand and the bloke had already made one bogie up. To be honest until I had made them both and got the coach sitting on them up against another I did not know they were going to be a bit tall. Still, we know now ready for the next one I do with commonwealths.

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:cray_mini2: Doh! Now why didn't I think to make the springs shorter? Now should I do it to reagain the gap between the top of the bogie and the bottom of the solebar. When I bought this it was secondhand and the bloke had already made one bogie up. To be honest until I had made them both and got the coach sitting on them up against another I did not know they were going to be a bit tall. Still, we know now ready for the next one I do with commonwealths.

 

 

Brian

 

If you do redo them, just be careful not to take too much off as if you do then you lose the spring effect and end up with a rigid bogie, so start by taking off 1 coil and see how they fit.

 

I have to say that I like these bogies they run extremely well over my deliberatly poor quality test track, much better than rigid bogies. It is just a shame that the quality of the castings could be better.

 

Richard.

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Yes David these commonwealths are whitemetal. I do think the springs are a bit strong but that might change if I cut them down a bit as at the moment the axleboxes are up against the bottom retaining bracket so they can not drop but only go up (well they would go up if the springs were not st strong!) This is an old kit that I bought secondhand so maybe the springs supplied now are not so strong?

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Hi Brian,

 

does this picture help any

 

post-6951-0-86940500-1300299242_thumb.jpg

 

one I built in 2009 'straight from the box' - clearances ok so could it be the bolster as the springs seem to be the same as in your picture.

 

regards

 

Mike

 

 

Here is a photo of a real bogie as you can see the axle box should be in the middle of the frame the reason yours are not is because the springs are too long and need to be shortened.

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Here is a photo of a real bogie as you can see the axle box should be in the middle of the frame the reason yours are not is because the springs are too long and need to be shortened.

 

is that photo at Carlisle by the way?

 

OzzyO.

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Thanks for the pictures chaps, you can never have enough can you.

 

Mike, glad you put that picture up of your GUV as I was racking my brains as I remembered seeing it before but could not remember who made it.

 

Richard, I have now removed a coil from the springs and just glued them in the bottom of the equalizing beam so they can drop a bit now. Shame the springs are not as tightly wound as the real ones. When I get some time in daylight I will take a picture but work is getting the way at the moment :(

 

I have also weathered my 33/1 at last! Pics to follow.

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Brian, that Crompton looks the "dogs", fantastic in natural sunlight and dare I say just like etc etc :lol: ......oops sorry Heljan, then again Heljan should be cock'a'hoop at your efforts as they make ready to run look incredible at very reasonable cost and effort.

 

As to the Mk1 bogies, hmmm not so impressed with those and compared to the prototype picture they look almost toy like, nothing to do with anyone’s modelling skills it just looks like the original casting/mouldings are clumsily over registered! There is little delicacy to the details.

 

Regarding the spring appearance I have pre prepared a few expansion springs I sourced a while ago, simply by carefully over stretching them you can get a compression spring with the relaxed coil spacing that looks correct, and they work perfectly! All I need now is find a bogie that looks better than those. :blink: :)

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I think this looks about right, but can be easily adjusted.....but only one way, be careful :P

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Finally got the camera out today on the 33/1. I never used to like cromptons but since Heljan produced this I have had to change my mind. Can't wait for their 31.

 

 

Brian,

 

The Bagpipe looks superb - especially in the natural light - you have done a cracking job.

 

I too am looking forward to Heljan's 31.

 

Have you had any issues with split cogs on your Heljans - apologies if I have asked that before?

 

ATVB

 

CME :)

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I have had one cog split on my 47309. Got a spare from Howes and "split" the bogie to replace it, easy job. Just hope one doesn't go on 47091 with the MMP sideframes that are glued round the bogie :blink:

 

 

 

Hi Brian,

 

Ah......that's my concern too - easish job without MMP conversion....I need to come up with a modification that allows both :D:unsure:B)

 

ATB

 

CME

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Brian -

 

That is not what is intended - see the instructions.

 

Regards,

 

David,

Modern Motive Power

 

 

 

Glad that I'm not the only one who doesn't read the instructions then :laugh_mini:.

 

OzzyO.

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