Jump to content
 

Brian's 7mm Diesel Workbench, Belated up-date!


Recommended Posts

Not a bad build, took a week to finish it though :pleasantry:

 

Did you sleep at all during that week? I have no idea how you put these kits together so quickly.

 

Looking forward to seeing the loco in its banger-blue overcoat ;)

 

Cheers

 

Lee

Link to post
Share on other sites

I did not rush this kit, honest :rolleyes: There is not that much to it realy. I was at work 06:00-14:00 as well last week so did a couple of hours in the afternoon then the evening as well. Maybe I should paint the cab interior now whilst I am waiting for the bits to arrive.

 

It had it's first public outing yesterday. A shot of it being "coaled up" on Laira. Another outside Swindon "A" Shop and finally having a bit of assistance from 06002 as not surprisingly it was a bit lacking without the rods.

post-6766-0-37598400-1305567433_thumb.jpg

post-6766-0-80652600-1305567436_thumb.jpg

post-6766-0-96836300-1305567439_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Ok, I'm going to stick my head above the parapet. Nothing to do with Brians modelling I should stress!

 

Are the bottom of the 08 cab side windows too high up the body - compare with photos of the real thing and they are almost at the bottom of the fuel gauge (or whatever that circle on the box in front of the cab is!). The real windows are well over half the height of the cab side.

 

Probably a good thing but for once I'm not tempted to race out and get one (until the paint job turns out superb and I change my mind obviously... :unsure:)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Are the bottom of the 08 cab side windows too high up the body - compare with photos of the real thing and they are almost at the bottom of the fuel gauge (or whatever that circle on the box in front of the cab is!). The real windows are well over half the height of the cab side.

Good spot! Yes, the bottom of the cab window is too high up the cab side. Looking at the pic below:

http://www.railpictures.net/viewphoto.php?id=278798&nseq=7

 

The cab window should be deeper than the door window, but in the kit they are the same height.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Good spot! Yes, the bottom of the cab window is too high up the cab side. Looking at the pic below:

http://www.railpictu...d=278798&nseq=7

 

The cab window should be deeper than the door window, but in the kit they are the same height.

 

Hi, I think that's the case for the 08s fitted with the wooden cab door as per your linked photo, but for the ones with the later steel doors (as per Brian's kit), the window bottoms seem to be level with each other.

 

post-6843-0-17981500-1305793477_thumb.jpg

 

 

Hope this helps,

 

Kevin

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, I think that's the case for the 08s fitted with the wooden cab door as per your linked photo, but for the ones with the later steel doors (as per Brian's kit), the window bottoms seem to be level with each other.

Hope this helps,

 

Kevin

 

That is true but in either case, the cab side windows are the same size and in 7mm the bottom edge of these windows should be on a line approx. 1.6mm above the bottom of the circular fuel gauge [including the surround to the gauge].

 

Also, it is a pity that Slaters have modified their O/S Crank arrangement for their wheels as this inevitably leads to some unfortunate compromises having to be made to the depth of the horn guides on models. I can quite see why it needs to be done if you are going to use this crank arrangement but on the 08 you end up with the same 'squashed in' look to the horn guides as the Bachmann RTR loco has.

 

Regards,

 

David Parkins

Link to post
Share on other sites

That is true but in either case, the cab side windows are the same size and in 7mm the bottom edge of these windows should be on a line approx. 1.6mm above the bottom of the circular fuel gauge [including the surround to the gauge].

 

Also, it is a pity that Slaters have modified their O/S Crank arrangement for their wheels as this inevitably leads to some unfortunate compromises having to be made to the depth of the horn guides on models. I can quite see why it needs to be done if you are going to use this crank arrangement but on the 08 you end up with the same 'squashed in' look to the horn guides as the Bachmann RTR loco has.

 

Regards,

 

David Parkins

 

 

Hi David, Pugsley, guys...:)

 

The JLTRT 08 is a very cleverly designed kit B) and yet I was - not being an 08 expert - endeavouring to see what wasnt quite right with the windows and hornblocks etc. to my eyes.

 

I have often been tempted by the Bachmann 08 and yet, as I have mentioned elsewhere, even though I am a layout modeller, I couldnt live with the comprimises - caveat applies in that;- each to their own.

 

The question is, re the door/cab window heights, have JLTRT only catered for the one option?

 

I would really like some milled cranks or similar and Slaters seem to have comprimised (and possibly comprimised themselves with the newer wheels/cranks?), have the newer Slaters' wheels been designed just for the JLTRT 08?

 

ATVB.

 

CME

Link to post
Share on other sites

Shame about the depth of the side windows. It does not worry/shout out to me though, I can live with it. I did think about opening out the bottom of the window but the door window has the rubber moulded on it so I would loose that if i made it deeper. The one time it will be a problem though is if you want to paint the loco in a livery with a change of colour under the window. Thankfully good old BR blue won't show this :rolleyes:

 

The lost wax brass cranks on this are supplied in the kit from JLTRT as the Slaters ones are plastic and a bit chunky.

 

I got the rods today and the grill etches. Got the rods on but the grills still to do. I have painted the cab interior as well now.

post-6766-0-65576300-1305825958_thumb.jpg

post-6766-0-56487500-1305825962_thumb.jpg

post-6766-0-60679100-1305825965_thumb.jpg

post-6766-0-69969400-1305825980_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

With regards to the size of the cab side window apatures,don't forget that a drop light window fitting has to fit into this space,which when fitted will alter the look of the cab side.

Tim

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Brian/Guys,:)

 

As it's your model and you are happy with it then that is fine in my book :yes: - yet it seems a great shame that it aint quite right (for at least one version) at £350 (a, in modern parlance, 'considered purchase' ) for just the kit - even though it has many, many great features.

 

One could argue that your loco looks better with the windows as modelled by JLTRT, yet is it a case of NQLTRT :rolleyes::unsure::laugh:??? JLTRT have stated in their blurb that there will be 'two main versions' and 'coming soon' does that mean that yours is a pre-production model or that they havent updated their site yet? I guess that time will tell, if it is wrong, such mistakes would not - rightly or wrongly and each to their own of course - in 4mm, by the punters/buyers of 00 (sic) models be tolerated these days, yet once again, so it would seem, the poor old modeller of 7mm may get the short straw - again.:rolleyes: The benchmark Hornby 08 can be had at approx £64.00 and the windows etc. are correct for the versions painted/modelled? (waits to be shot down now :laugh:). It seems to me that JLTRT may have made an elementary mistake - not the first time? Their resin mouldings are superb, lots of nice LWB, easy build, lazer scanned (so I am led to believe) CAD drawings etc. etc. state of the art, yet still some mistakes(?)....such a great shame....

 

I did note that the 33 was due at the beginning of this month (May) it will be good to see what job JLTRT will make of this popular class - I hope that they get the roofs and tanks right for each type/era :laugh:?

 

I notice on the JLTRT site/loco that they have modelled the 08 with a noticable gap between the running plate and the cab/bonnet assy. I note that yours is perfect :yahoo:

 

Minor rant over........as I said, it seems that one pays their money and makes their choice....I just want the best for the modeller and suppliers of 7mm products alike, yet in my experience some manufactures dont always take a considered critique (for want of a better word) well (please note all that I used the word critique and not criticism).

 

Oh well as long as the world keeps turning we will all be okay!

 

All the very best and keep posting those photos - great progress and a great looking model on the whole.

 

CME

Link to post
Share on other sites

That is true but in either case, the cab side windows are the same size and in 7mm the bottom edge of these windows should be on a line approx. 1.6mm above the bottom of the circular fuel gauge [including the surround to the gauge].

 

Regards,

 

David Parkins

 

 

Hello David,

what would the height be to the bottom of the windows from the footplate? And was there a difference in the door windows, steel doors wooden doors?

 

OzzyO.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Funny thing is that I have just measured my "office" at work this morning and it's 900mm bottom of window to footplate.

 

 

So Brian, were looking at 35.5" or just under 21mm.

 

OzzyO.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello David,

what would the height be to the bottom of the windows from the footplate? And was there a difference in the door windows, steel doors wooden doors?

 

OzzyO.

 

 

Hello OzzyO

 

According to my drawings - 18.9mm in 7mm. The total window aperture should be 10.7mm x 17.5mm and yes the door windows on the wooden doors are smaller than the later metal ones but this has no bearing on the cab side window sizes.

 

Also - my point about the OS Cranks is not whether the Slaters ones are used, or a replacement one is used. It is that the new Slaters OS crank axles are shorter than before and so the problem of either having to make the horn guides too shallow or [also problematic] moving the OS frames inwards will still remain. We purchased the remaining stocks of the old type, longer, OS crank axles from Slaters to avoid this problem on our own Class 08/09/13 kits. These will in time run out though - but then [as Baldrick said] "I Have a Cunning Plan"!

 

Regards,

 

David Parkins

Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is a picture with a line 20.6mm above the footplate where I think the bottom of the window should be.

Yep, I would say that looks about right, which means that the door handle is also in the wrong position.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, I think that's the case for the 08s fitted with the wooden cab door as per your linked photo, but for the ones with the later steel doors (as per Brian's kit), the window bottoms seem to be level with each other.

:blush: :blush: Yes, you're right, I hadn't spotted that the one I linked to had the wooden door.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I have just measured my "office" at work this morning and it's 900mm bottom of window to footplate.

 

I knew I'd seen a driverless 08 trundle past. You must have been busy measuring at the time :unsure:

Link to post
Share on other sites

The 08 will be put to one side now until I get the parts needed to finish it from JLTRT.

 

So in the meantime I have this Heljan class 26 to detail :pleasantry:

 

It's a very nice looking model straight from the box. It's a shame the yellow did not go round onto the side windows for a TOP's era loco as this style is pre TOP's blue. Anyway I have replacement cab doors with filled in windows, from Howes, in the paint shop now as they are supplied un-painted unfortunatly. I will put them on then re-spray all the yellow including the side windows. As you can see I have changed the discs one end so far for a set of JLTRT ones. The Heljan ones are a bit smaller but not by much. Also the top disc is a bit high on the model so i have lowered this. Have to fill a few holes now in the front. The pipes on the bufferbeam are in a bag for you to put on yourself. I also painted them as they are plain black plastic. I have glued the snowploughs on the rear of the bufferbeam. The headlights are from a Cararama Mini that I got for a couple of quid some time ago. The fuel and water tanks on this appear to be the correct width, unlike the 33 which are too wide. So a job saved there. Still got to cut off the coil springs on the bogiesoff though and move them inboard a bit. I think it's going to look rather good with the number under the secondmans window as 26042.

post-6766-0-33440700-1305999861_thumb.jpg

post-6766-0-35418700-1305999864_thumb.jpg

post-6766-0-08552500-1305999867_thumb.jpg

post-6766-0-87586800-1305999869_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I have nearly finished tarting up the Heljan 26. I still have to move the coil springs in on the bogies. I am hoping that varnishing the cab doors will get the Railmatch blue to match the China equivalent. I am undecided if I should get Pete Harvey to do an etch replacement for the cab steps as to be honest these are not too bad. Also not sure if it's worth getting an etched rad fan grill as it's a bit of a job to see the rad fan on these and the 33's. It's going to look a bit better when I get some weathering on it as well. All in all a very nice model from Heljan

post-6766-0-67517200-1306518422_thumb.jpg

post-6766-0-98191300-1306518425_thumb.jpg

post-6766-0-33777100-1306518429_thumb.jpg

post-6766-0-07284900-1306518432_thumb.jpg

post-6766-0-90486500-1306518434_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Brian,

 

Nice work.

 

The scavenger roof fan grill is an issue on the 33's ........because, of course, they come to a point at top dead centre which no-one yet seems to be able to replicate in brass/NS (etch) and the Heljan one goes some way to capturing that look yet in plastic.

 

The Rad grills look to be very well rendered by Heljan........is it worth it.

 

I have been struggling with getting a good look for such on the LIMA's with the RJH parts (yet with the better MMP grill material on top) - where to stop and start (I may have to scratch build - why do I start these things....it was only meant to be a quicky project!!):lol:

 

ATB,

 

CME

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...