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1st attempts of weathering


madgasters

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The cars look great, nice and subtle. You were doing so well until you got to the engine, then you went waaaaaaaay overboard.

 

Unless you were modeling an engine that was derailed and turned over into a mud puddle.

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The cars look great, nice and subtle. You were doing so well until you got to the engine, then you went waaaaaaaay overboard.

 

Unless you were modeling an engine that was derailed and turned over into a mud puddle.

 

it did derail, look at the rear truck in the photo.

 

I agree the cars look awesome, but the SF unit is overdone.

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Try to confine the effects of rust on the Locomotive etc., to the panel edges and grooves, the flat panels don't weather like that, they may get dust etc, but it soon washes off in the weather, but leaves the traces in the area where water gathers or pools on upper surfaces.

 

Fine details can be literally highlighted by dragging a dry brush loaded with white or a light shade fro the top down, to "catch the light" on for instance a rusty rivet.

 

You can even enhance the effect with a black dry brush in the up wards direction to enhance shadow details, especially on bogies that are weathered, it adds 3D depth.

 

Be very subtle at first, built up, it is easy to over do the effects.

 

Stephen.

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Be very subtle at first, built up, it is easy to over do the effects.

 

So true... Take your dirtiest brush and rub it on your cleanest piece.

 

I recently rubbed a bunch of powders into some side frames, looked good, then took a virgin (aside from dullcoat) loco and lightly brushed the same brush with nothing on it and the panel lines etc. popped out.... Start light then build up.

 

Another idea on weathering to create textures, apologies in advance for the reference.... Ever have glue between two fingers, like snot? It wasn't that way when it came from the bottle, use 'drying' to your advantage and pull material 'away' from the piece to add 'texture.'

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I realise these locomotives are not your prototype and didn't operate in the same geographic area, but the weathering is what I would call neutral, in other words, the engines weren't spending every day in a quarry or coal mine. They were in regular service as opposed to dead storage for prolonged periods. The climate in Maine is probably a bit wetter than Santa Fe country. But hopefully these can help you with weathering patterns.

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GP38 looking fairly clean, might have been through Waterville shops in the couple of years prior to the photo as the class was coming due for attention.

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GP7 577 has been recently repainted, given the final style of nose decal. But plenty of exhaust weathering. Note the signs of foot traffic on the loco, also perhaps some incident with battery acid?

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GP7 574 was rebuilt in August, 1972 and has seen six or seven years of service since then with little if any cleaning.

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That covered hoppers are very nice especially the BN one.

 

The only time I've seen locos covered in "rust" they worked around steel mills. The horizontal surfaces were covered in a fine steel/iron dust that rapidly oxidised.

 

All may not be lost - if it won't wash off, I have cut back overdone weathering with silver polish (less harsh than Brasso or T Cut). I worked slowly being careful not to abrade the livery coat underneath and then flat varnished the model as it was now polished.

 

Nick

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I guess you have the current issue of Model Railroader - they always do a 'top' article on weathering and this months is no exception. Worth studying I'd say.

 

Regards Bob.

 

Yes i did get it after i started doing these cars.

 

Have been cleaning up my GP38 as i did get carried way :D

 

Thanks for everyones comments .

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