RMweb Premium AdeMoore Posted February 2, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2020 Nice work Colin 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale7JB Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 Colin, I think you have the top of the brake hangers sticking out too far out from the inner frames, and that will be the cause of the interaction between buffers and brake hangers. JB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold colin penfold Posted February 4, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 4, 2020 Thanks for the suggestion JB but i needed to bring them forward to enable the brake blocks to line up with the wheel treads rather than the flanges. The brakes are perpendicular and line up with the treads. I'm pretty sure the kit was designed for rigid buffers and it's an issue caused by the extra bulk of the sprung buffers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted February 4, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 4, 2020 Don't forget that full size buffers don't go through the buffer beam, they are just bolted on its face and are self contained. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold colin penfold Posted February 4, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 4, 2020 Absolutely Michael. I checked with Laurie Griffin in case I'd made an error and this was his kind response Hello Colin, It looks like you've come up with a novel solution to a common problem. I sometimes think Railway Designers in the late 19th Century must have got together and said, "what can we do to make people in the future who make models of our loco's difficult"? You have hit a common problem. Real tenders didn't tend to have buffers with big nuts projecting inside the area taken up by things like wheels, brake pivots etc. On many the nut/spigot on the buffer stock co-incides with the frame. I have solved it variously by not springing the buffersw, cutting away the spigot and getting rid of the nut, using a split pin to hoild the buffer in etc. You've just found another way round the problem - well done for a bit of lateral thinking!!! Looks a fine solution to me. Best wishes Laurie Griffin www.lgminiatures.co.uk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold colin penfold Posted February 5, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2020 The state of play at present is as follows with some major parts loosely placed in position for effect. Thanks to @Scale7JB for the tip about barkeepers friend, it's come up nice and shiny! Plan from here is to paint the tender chassis black, then fit pickups sort out buffing arrangements between tender and loco (either 4mm scale buffers or foam draft excluder) shorten body screws where necessary and ensure fitting will go to plan position DCC chip, speaker and wiring in loco chassis spray tender and loco bodies with pre-primer rattle can primer tender and loco bodies spray bodies with airbrush fit lining transfers assemble chassis to bodies and test run fit all loose detail parts (chimney, dome, safety valves, whistle, clack valves etc, pipes, reversing lever, sand boxes, cab details, tender floor, couplings, buffer heads and vac pipes) brush paint all detail areas. For something that looks quite close that feels like an awful lot of work still to do! 3 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold colin penfold Posted February 5, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2020 Thanks to the extraordinary service of Peters Spares the Bachmann 00 scale buffers I ordered yesterday are now fitted. Seen in position, then simulated normal running, tight curve, then finally tender first running. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold colin penfold Posted February 8, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 8, 2020 We have a dcc fitted rolling chassis! Plunger pickups fitted to the tender and connecting wire sorted, loco pickups and motor attached to DCC harness and chip/speaker/stayalive temporarily connected for testing. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted February 8, 2020 Share Posted February 8, 2020 Well done mate, nice slow running. G 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold colin penfold Posted February 8, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 8, 2020 Thanks G. She really is smooth on DCC. The loco builder box was a good shout too, the tender is whizzy now 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted February 8, 2020 Share Posted February 8, 2020 31 minutes ago, colin penfold said: The loco builder box Good old Poppy ! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold colin penfold Posted February 9, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 9, 2020 (edited) So here's a quick chassis question. I have built the chassis using the spacers provided in the kit. I have used the bearings provided in the kit and the wheels and axles from slaters as recommended by Laurie. However, I can't help feeling that the back of the wheels are too tight against the surface of the bearings if I fully tighten them. Tighten them fully they bind a little. Ease off by an eigth of a turn and they run lovely. As you can see above it's running fine so I'm not going lose to much sleep over it. I wonder if i should take a bit off the surface of the bearings or the back of the wheels (or both) or should I leave well alone? Is it simply that it is possible to over-tighten the wheels on the axles? Edited February 9, 2020 by colin penfold Addendum Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted February 9, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 9, 2020 You can't overtighten Slater's wheels, file a bit off the bearing faces, leave the wheels alone. 1 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold colin penfold Posted February 12, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 12, 2020 It lives! 7 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium AdeMoore Posted February 12, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 12, 2020 Congrats Colin great that. Lovely slow running. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold colin penfold Posted February 12, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 12, 2020 Thanks Ade. I'm very pleased. It has a massive flywheel and a great quality motor gearbox which hopefully overcome the defects of my chassis building! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted February 12, 2020 Share Posted February 12, 2020 7 hours ago, colin penfold said: It lives! You're just showing off now ! Have you synchronised the motion to the wheels yet ? Seems to be slightly out of sync to me or is it just me mate ? Nice stuff never the less. G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted February 12, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 12, 2020 It's not so much as out of sync. - more too many cylinders, 6 beats instead of 4 per revolution which is what you get with a 3 cylinder loco. Sounds good though and runs welll. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold colin penfold Posted February 12, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 12, 2020 I haven't done any adjustments to the chip which is as supplied. It's an adams radial sound file which I thought was the closest available to the Ilfracombe Goods, which of course is not available! Both the radial and the IG are two cylinder locos so I should be able to get it right in due course. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon tyler Posted January 13, 2023 Share Posted January 13, 2023 Hi Colin, I'm just completing my Ilfracombe goods kit - Laurie Griffin - just wondered why I can't see the majority of your photos. I did find your comments very helpful. Kind regards Jon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted January 13, 2023 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 13, 2023 A lot of images on this forum have disappeared, as noted here: I note Colin hasn't been on for nearly a month, hope all is ok. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon tyler Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 Here are some photos of my efforts with the same kit. The internals of the tender are guesswork on my part as there don't seem to be any photgraphs or plans showing the internal arrangements of the Beattie standard tender. I have moved the small toolbox to the other side, however and also cut it down by 2/3rds. Jon 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon tyler Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 Two more photos. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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