muddys-blues Posted March 22, 2020 Share Posted March 22, 2020 Hello, have you tried using any abrasive compounds in between the worm and gear, a fine smear of brasso, a fine car polish, or even toothpaste smeared thinly on the mating faces, then if you have a rolling road, run it in both directions on half speed for 30 minutes. Just another question, is the gearbox rubbing against the body or chassis ? this would resonate the sound also. Hope you sort your issue Best regards Craig. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluestag Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 31 minutes ago, muddys-blues said: Hello, have you tried using any abrasive compounds in between the worm and gear, a fine smear of brasso, a fine car polish, or even toothpaste smeared thinly on the mating faces, then if you have a rolling road, run it in both directions on half speed for 30 minutes. Just another question, is the gearbox rubbing against the body or chassis ? this would resonate the sound also. Hope you sort your issue Best regards Craig. Don't have a rolling road. Another modeler I know is enthusiastic about grinding paste, but I have my doubts. The loco has had ample running such that I would think it was broken in. Indeed, the brass gear has a well polished pattern from meeting the worm. I am banking on the nylon worm solution, despite Unltrascale needing three months for production. That is IF they are in production considering Covid-19 at all. I have no place to run my stuff except at friend's homes. I think we are in for six months of lock down at the rate we are going....so I'm in no hurry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian@stenochs Posted March 22, 2020 Share Posted March 22, 2020 I can recommend the nylon worm/brass worm wheel from Ultrascale. Quite a few of my 7 mm scale locos are so fitted and run quiet and very smoothly. The gear boxes I use are similar to the fold ups but home made from heavier gauge metal and very rigid. They have had about 15 years exhibition running and there is no obvious wear on either the worm or wheel. Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluestag Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 33 minutes ago, ian@stenochs said: I can recommend the nylon worm/brass worm wheel from Ultrascale. Quite a few of my 7 mm scale locos are so fitted and run quiet and very smoothly. The gear boxes I use are similar to the fold ups but home made from heavier gauge metal and very rigid. They have had about 15 years exhibition running and there is no obvious wear on either the worm or wheel. Ian. Excellent! Wear is a concern of mine. If I am measuring correctly, Ultrascale's 40:1 gear set is only thousands of an inch off from the ones supplied by Roxey Moldings. So a swap should be reasonably easy. I'll need to fit shims to keep the wheel from floating around under the worm, but that while tedious is not difficult. Do they really take 3 months to fill an order? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluestag Posted March 23, 2020 Author Share Posted March 23, 2020 (edited) Well, wouldn't you know it. Ultrascale does not know if it can produce at this time. I'm still under the impression that they are running three months behind. I placed an order for two sets of gears (I have another loco in line that has similar gears) and I hope. Edited March 23, 2020 by bluestag change Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluestag Posted March 23, 2020 Author Share Posted March 23, 2020 I just read that Boris shut the whole country down for three weeks, so there's your answer. Gotta work on something else. Stay healthy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluestag Posted April 21, 2020 Author Share Posted April 21, 2020 Got an Email from Ultrascale a week ago that he had produced my gears, that was some service! I'm expecting them in any day. I'll keep you apprised. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluestag Posted May 28, 2020 Author Share Posted May 28, 2020 On 22/07/2019 at 03:14, Isambarduk said: A number of my older locos have perfectly functioning fold-up gearboxes. In each case, I stiffened the sides with little gussets and I replaced the steel worm and brass worm wheels with a set of Nylatron worm and brass worm wheel from Ultrascale Gears. These gears are as quiet as you like and are self-lubricating, so they require no maintenance. Here is an example: Great Western Railway 'Dean Goods' 0-6-0 David David, Ultrascale gears it is! Now I have a nearly silent loco. I'm very happy. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 On 28/05/2020 at 01:24, bluestag said: Ultrascale gears it is! Now I have a nearly silent loco. I'm very happy. Excellent news! Thank you for sharing it with us. I hope you have a similar success with your second loco. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluestag Posted May 30, 2020 Author Share Posted May 30, 2020 13 hours ago, Isambarduk said: Excellent news! Thank you for sharing it with us. I hope you have a similar success with your second loco. David Thanks. It has milled sideframes as opposed to etched. It can require pouring a LOT of heat into it to solder anything to it. Just another mess to be sorted out! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Happy Hippo Posted May 30, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 30, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, bluestag said: Thanks. It has milled sideframes as opposed to etched. It can require pouring a LOT of heat into it to solder anything to it. Just another mess to be sorted out! With milled side frames I tend to try and use spacers that are drilled and tapped and then screw them together. It's cleaner and has the added advantage that if necessary you can take the whole chassis to pieces if needed. Solder is used only for the likes of the rods that will support such as brake hangers. Edited May 30, 2020 by Happy Hippo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluestag Posted May 30, 2020 Author Share Posted May 30, 2020 6 hours ago, Happy Hippo said: With milled side frames I tend to try and use spacers that are drilled and tapped and then screw them together. It's cleaner and has the added advantage that if necessary you can take the whole chassis to pieces if needed. Solder is used only for the likes of the rods that will support such as brake hangers. Yes, the kit came with square section spacer rods drilled and tapped. The holes drilled thru them for the body mounting screws are off center. If it was still in production I would have applied for replacements! As of now I won't be able to disassemble the frames as I am soldering on etched details that partly cover up the screws. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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