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Hello, have you tried using any abrasive compounds in between the worm and gear, a fine smear of brasso, a fine car polish, or even toothpaste smeared thinly on the mating faces, then if you have a rolling road, run it in both directions on half speed for 30 minutes.

 

Just another question, is the gearbox rubbing against the body or chassis ? this would resonate the sound also.

 

Hope you sort your issue

 

Best regards

Craig.

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31 minutes ago, muddys-blues said:

Hello, have you tried using any abrasive compounds in between the worm and gear, a fine smear of brasso, a fine car polish, or even toothpaste smeared thinly on the mating faces, then if you have a rolling road, run it in both directions on half speed for 30 minutes.

 

Just another question, is the gearbox rubbing against the body or chassis ? this would resonate the sound also.

 

Hope you sort your issue

 

Best regards

Craig.

Don't have a rolling road.    Another modeler I know is enthusiastic about grinding paste, but I have my doubts.   The loco has had ample running such that I would think it was broken in.    Indeed, the brass gear has a well polished pattern from meeting the worm.   I am banking on the nylon worm solution, despite Unltrascale needing three months for production.   That is IF they are in production considering Covid-19 at all.    I have no place to run my stuff except at friend's homes.  I think we are in for six months of lock down at the rate we are going....so I'm in no hurry.

 

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I can recommend the nylon worm/brass worm wheel from Ultrascale.  Quite a few of my 7 mm scale locos are so fitted and run quiet and very smoothly.  The gear boxes I use are similar to the fold ups but home made from heavier gauge metal and very rigid. They have had about 15 years exhibition running and there is no obvious wear on either the worm or wheel. 
 

Ian.

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33 minutes ago, [email protected] said:

I can recommend the nylon worm/brass worm wheel from Ultrascale.  Quite a few of my 7 mm scale locos are so fitted and run quiet and very smoothly.  The gear boxes I use are similar to the fold ups but home made from heavier gauge metal and very rigid. They have had about 15 years exhibition running and there is no obvious wear on either the worm or wheel. 
 

Ian.

Excellent!    Wear is a concern of mine.    If I am measuring correctly, Ultrascale's 40:1 gear set is only thousands of an inch off from the ones supplied by Roxey Moldings.    So a swap should be reasonably easy.   I'll need to fit shims to keep the wheel from floating around under the worm, but that while tedious is not difficult.

 

Do they really take 3 months to fill an order?

 

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Well, wouldn't you know it.   Ultrascale does not know if it can produce at this time.    I'm still under the impression that they are running three months behind.   I placed an order for two sets of gears (I have another loco in line that has similar gears) and I hope.  

Edited by bluestag
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On 22/07/2019 at 03:14, Isambarduk said:

A number of my older locos have perfectly functioning fold-up gearboxes.  In each case, I stiffened the sides with little gussets and I replaced the steel worm and brass worm wheels with a set of Nylatron worm and brass worm wheel from Ultrascale Gears.  These gears are as quiet as you like and are self-lubricating, so they require no maintenance.

 

image.png.f5528903ccd0f0cf565affac64539e32.png

 

Here is an example: Great Western Railway 'Dean Goods' 0-6-0

 

David

David,

 

Ultrascale gears it is!   Now I have a nearly silent loco.   I'm very happy.

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On 28/05/2020 at 01:24, bluestag said:

 

Ultrascale gears it is!   Now I have a nearly silent loco.   I'm very happy.

Excellent news!  Thank you for sharing it with us.  I hope you have a similar success with your second loco.  David

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13 hours ago, Isambarduk said:

Excellent news!  Thank you for sharing it with us.  I hope you have a similar success with your second loco.  David

Thanks.    It has milled sideframes as opposed to etched.    It can require pouring a LOT of heat into it to solder anything to it.   Just another mess to be sorted out!

 

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2 hours ago, bluestag said:

Thanks.    It has milled sideframes as opposed to etched.    It can require pouring a LOT of heat into it to solder anything to it.   Just another mess to be sorted out!

 

With milled side frames I tend to try and use spacers that are drilled and tapped and then screw them together. It's cleaner and has the added advantage that if necessary you can take the whole chassis to pieces if needed.  Solder is used only for the likes of the rods  that will support such as brake hangers.

 

Edited by Happy Hippo
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6 hours ago, Happy Hippo said:

With milled side frames I tend to try and use spacers that are drilled and tapped and then screw them together. It's cleaner and has the added advantage that if necessary you can take the whole chassis to pieces if needed.  Solder is used only for the likes of the rods  that will support such as brake hangers.

 

Yes, the kit came with square section spacer rods drilled and tapped.    The holes drilled thru them for the body mounting screws are off center.    If it was still in production I would have applied for replacements!    As of now I won't be able to disassemble the frames as I am soldering on etched details that partly cover up the screws.

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