Weathering Coach Roofs

[Jack P]

Hi guys,

 

I've tried the search function, but to no avail. 

 

I have a fair few coaches that need weathering, and something I struggle with is the roofs. Does anyone have any hints, tips or guides to re-create the effect?

 

 

[John Tomlinson]

I mask the sides below the cantrail, then waft sooty gray from the airbrush across the roof from side to side. I might then lighten the sooty gray a bit and do some more for variation. It isn't at all precise nor should it be even, I'm just looking for some variation in shade and a slightly crusty and definitely matt look.

 

I also do somthing similar in approach to the underframe and bogies, but with a browny gray colour. As ever with weathering a little goes a long way, and the final effect I'm looking for is of a well maintained vehicle that has seen some service since leaving works. If you want decrepit/ end of steam look then you probably need to be more aggresive.

 

John.

[jwealleans]

For canvas roofs, I brush paint mine with a mucky grey mix (mixed up each time, so it's always different) and then add some talc before applying it.  That's a Martyn Welch tip which does scale down to 4mm.  It gives the paint a very matt finish and also a texture which the eye picks up on. 

[BWsTrains]

On 24/07/2019 at 07:08, Jack P said:

Hi guys,

 

I've tried the search function, but to no avail. 

 

I have a fair few coaches that need weathering, and something I struggle with is the roofs. Does anyone have any hints, tips or guides to re-create the effect?

 

 

To search content here, use "Google" then RMWeb, keyword1 .... keyword x all separated by a space. Works every time.

 

The new RMWeb search engine can't be much better than the old as the Google method above turns up various hits as well as other useful RMWeb content.

Edited July 27, 2019 by BWsTrains
clarification

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

Do you have some reference photos for the period in question? If it is while steam operation was still the norm, right there with the suggestions of a very matt grey-brown on any vehicle which had been in traffic for more than a couple of weeks.

22 hours ago, jwealleans said:

For canvas roofs, I brush paint mine with a mucky grey mix (mixed up each time, so it's always different) and then add some talc before applying it.  That's a Martyn Welch tip which does scale down to 4mm.  It gives the paint a very matt finish and also a texture which the eye picks up on. 

And an alternative for kit builds (or if stripping a RTR roof to modify its fittings) a single ply of Andrex of other fine textured 'bathroom tissue' bonded on is good. If wished the relatively common visible joins, wrinkles, tears and patches may be produced.

 

The texture difference however achieved adds to the general impression where there is a significant mix of grouping and earlier vehicles largely with canvas roofs, running with later steel roofed stock.

[Gwiwer]

I have successfully used weathering powders with a hairspray base for fixative.

 

Mask along the edges between roof and carriage sides first.  My technique is to have everything ready to apply (essential) then give the roof a squirt of hairspray to wet it.  Then apply a generous amount of powder brushing it quickly from the ends to the middle.  Hairspray gives you about 10 seconds of working time before it dries which is enough if you are ready to go with a loaded brush before spraying.  This first application doesn't have to be perfect.

 

Once the first layer is on the rest can be done through natural grab of powder to powder.  Here I can build up layers and different colours and can cover any missed areas.  I can also add effects such as streaking by cross-brushing with a coarse bristle brush.  I use a 1" house-painting brush for this.

 

Here's a couple of vans I did using this method.

 

 

[37501]

I always brush paint the roof with Humbrol enamel prior to airbrushing. As the roof is usually slightly shiny to start with, this gives a good key for the weathering and saves a lot of airbrush time in building up coats, 

a mix of Matt black and a suitable brown / grey mix usually works.

 

John

[Enterprisingwestern]

 

Salt weathering can't be beaten for the ragged canvas roof effect.

 

Mike.

[45125]

Vehicle roofs are very rarely the same colour in a rake, as vehicles will have gone thought shops at different times. So a bit of variation on the roofs before weathering looks good. 

[young37215]

I recommend Everad Junction's weathering video. 

 

 

[9C85]

On 27/07/2019 at 11:56, Gwiwer said:

I have successfully used weathering powders with a hairspray base for fixative.

 

Mask along the edges between roof and carriage sides first.  My technique is to have everything ready to apply (essential) then give the roof a squirt of hairspray to wet it.  Then apply a generous amount of powder brushing it quickly from the ends to the middle.  Hairspray gives you about 10 seconds of working time before it dries which is enough if you are ready to go with a loaded brush before spraying.  This first application doesn't have to be perfect.

 

Once the first layer is on the rest can be done through natural grab of powder to powder.  Here I can build up layers and different colours and can cover any missed areas.  I can also add effects such as streaking by cross-brushing with a coarse bristle brush.  I use a 1" house-painting brush for this.

 

Here's a couple of vans I did using this method.

 

 

I like the look of you coach roofservices.  I also particularly like the track weathering.  I am about to start both jobs on my layout having just purchased an airbrush. I'm modelling and carriage sidings with a small fuelling point and would like the track to look like it does on your slip point in the picture.  Any advice would be appreciated.  Thanks 

[Gwiwer]

All of my weathering is based on powders.  

 

The ballast was first washed over with very thinly-diluted acrylic applied carefully with a wide flat brush.  The actual colour is a mix of raw sienna and black which dries to a slightly-stained look.  Once thoroughly dried I brush over which ever weathering powder I wish to use for the final colour.  In the image above I have used "Rusty Brown" and "Soot Black" sometimes alon and sometimes blended.  The powder is thoroughly brushed in and I then apply the wet-water spray used for gluing the ballast.  This turns the powders briefly to a liquid but they dry within seconds to give the effect shown.  This not only seals them but ensures that weathering powder does not find its way onto wheel rims and into power units.  A final brush-over with a dusting brush or a run across with a hand vacuum ensures a finish as dust-free as possible.  Any paint or powders which happen to spill onto the rails are left there other than for a wipe over of the rail heads and point blades to ensure good power supply.  

 

The carriage roof is done with powders first using a grey - black mix or "dirty black" available from some sources.  That is brushed well in and around the vents and any pipework before adding tiny spots of rust colour or even a light green.  These can be worked to a greater or lesser extent to give the desired effect as seen above.  Brushing in different directions can simulate speed-streaking and rain-water run-off.  Spots can be created by loading the brush with a little powder then deftly flicking it above the roof rather than applying directly.  If necessary tap the tip of the brush lightly onto the area require just to "seat" the powder without working it in.  

 

Some roof panels accept powders better than others.  If you find the powder simply doesn't grab and comes straight off then rinse the roof off with the wet-water spray (the washing-up liquid in that spray will help remove any grease), allow to thoroughly dry and start over.  I use a cheap hair spray as fixative where I have to but generally avoid it.  This must go on before the powders and you will need to work fast.  A good spray the length of the roof will wet it and give you around 10 - 20 seconds of working time.  Apply the powder quickly, brush lengthways to get the roof fully covered then allow to dry.  Once the base coat is fixed you can apply more and build up effects as you wish.  

 

Always handle rolling stock with soft rags (I use old T-shirts) when weathering and avoid getting warm finger-prints anywhere on the job.  They will show up on the finished work and are a nuisance to remove.  

 

Good luck.

[9C85]

Thanks for the comprehensive instructions.  I will try some or all of these techniques at some point. 

[Barry O]

Best thing is to try and see some coach roofs in real life.

 

Examples of Gresley Coaches at the NYMR a while ago

 

 

all have different levels of discolouration. Big problem is people do't take many photos of the coach roof...
 

Baz

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 13, 2020 by Barry O
spellung

[57xx]

On 13/07/2020 at 18:25, Barry O said:

Big problem is people do't take many photos of the coach roof...

 

That's exactly why I took these pics of the Steam railmotor at Didcot...

 

[saxokid]

On 27/07/2019 at 11:56, Gwiwer said:

I have successfully used weathering powders with a hairspray base for fixative.

 

Mask along the edges between roof and carriage sides first.  My technique is to have everything ready to apply (essential) then give the roof a squirt of hairspray to wet it.  Then apply a generous amount of powder brushing it quickly from the ends to the middle.  Hairspray gives you about 10 seconds of working time before it dries which is enough if you are ready to go with a loaded brush before spraying.  This first application doesn't have to be perfect.

 

Once the first layer is on the rest can be done through natural grab of powder to powder.  Here I can build up layers and different colours and can cover any missed areas.  I can also add effects such as streaking by cross-brushing with a coarse bristle brush.  I use a 1" house-painting brush for this.

 

Here's a couple of vans I did using this method.

 

 

Nice job on roofs here

[DCB]

I found some pcs of coach roofs on the GWR and NYMR, trouble is they aren't particularly weathered despite being late season pics.   GWR ones taken to show just how close trains are on a late build (early 20th century) GWR main line.

[Enterprisingwestern]

3 hours ago, DavidCBroad said:

I found some pcs of coach roofs on the GWR and NYMR, trouble is they aren't particularly weathered despite being late season pics.   GWR ones taken to show just how close trains are on a late build (early 20th century) GWR main line.

 

There's something wrong with your camera, it doesn't show the oversized roof ribs.

 

Mike.

[saxokid]

These are some van roofs ive just finished using “paint print technique”

using masking tape and mixs humbrol

matt colours them infil of vallejo acrylics and drop IPA to help colours bleed..

also talcon powder mixed in paint give rust like texture finish..