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Michael Edge's workbench


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Before starting the next big job (7mm ROD 2-8-0) I did a bit more work on 40936, the tender etch produced some interest at Warley but as I said before I only have one of these.

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Parts for the tender set out here, I didn't etch any frame spacers for this so the inner frames have been assembled on screwed spacers in the axle holes. Two of my "universal" spacers bolted under the footplate which is half etched underneath to leave locations for the steps and outside frames, buffer beam and drag beam also fitted in half etches. This is .015" n/s, half etch leaves the visible edge just about scale thickness. A few space fillers on this etch, BR aws bang plates and buffer extension pads - also the loco smokebox wrapper which I had forgotten was there when O made one to fit on the loco....

 

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Inner frames soldered to the spacers, next under the footplate the steps are soldered in place. Buffers are Slater's, fitted on pads.

 

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All steps and one frame fitted, the outer frames are cut out to clear the buffer tails and 12BA nuts but this doesn't show behind the step plates when finished. Cross wires for brakes soldered in and the guard irons bent outwards, final shape later. That's all on this for now, main job this afternoon.

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11 hours ago, Blandford1969 said:

That tender is seriously nice, I will just have to hope one day you do some more.

That's the easy bit, the half etched sides (something I don't usually do) with a curve at the top will be more "interesting". This is the first Midland style tender I've etched, scratchbuilding technique would have been to add the flat beading from thin strip to full thickness sides.

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Hello Mike,

 

That is looking good. Will it be a full 7mm kit with castings? If so, I may need one or two.

 

I will just mention a couple of things that are fairly easy to alter if you feel it may be required.

 

The upper steps on GCR tenders have the angle bracket attaching them to the step plate under the step rather than above it. Presumably so they can be made with a 90 degree angle onto the straight lower section of the step plate. I have not seen one with the angle above the step but maybe there were variations I am not aware of.

 

Also, the front dragbox plate between the loco and tender is, as far as I can tell, tapered towards the bottom to match the angle of the step plate. I am not sure if they were all like that but most were. The ROD tenders on 63601 and on Morayshire certainly are.

 

If you have seen some with vertical edges and the angle above the step, I would be interested to know where you found them.

 

Regards

 

Tony

 

 

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We're not thinking of selling this as a kit, there's a perfectly good Gladiator kit already available - I just did it this way with a one-off etch to see how well it worked.

Yes. I've got the top steps upside down and you're right about the drag beam - all will be altered this week.

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1 hour ago, Michael Edge said:

Back to 7mm now, this is the loco to go with the GC tender.

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This will be an ROD 2-8-0 as first sent to France in WW1.

 

Looking lovely Mike.

 

It is nice to see a GCR cab roof done properly! I have seen so many that just show a lack of appreciation of how the real ones were constructed.

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The motor bogie on the EF1 is very interesting. The only thing that stops me buying your Class 17 is having to use Black Beetles or Spuds. Would this system work

in the Class 17? 

 

(And the ES1) 

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2 hours ago, Daddyman said:

The motor bogie on the EF1 is very interesting. The only thing that stops me buying your Class 17 is having to use Black Beetles or Spuds. Would this system work

in the Class 17? 

 

(And the ES1) 

 

With a bit of ingenuity/bodging/adaptation, one of these fits quite nicely and provides plenty of pulling power.

 

http://www.highlevelkits.co.uk/loriderpage.html

 

Mike.

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9 hours ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

With a bit of ingenuity/bodging/adaptation, one of these fits quite nicely and provides plenty of pulling power.

 

http://www.highlevelkits.co.uk/loriderpage.html

 

Mike.

Thanks.

 

Define bodging! 

 

And Mike's system is probably cheaper/simpler. 

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13 hours ago, Daddyman said:

The motor bogie on the EF1 is very interesting. The only thing that stops me buying your Class 17 is having to use Black Beetles or Spuds. Would this system work

in the Class 17? 

 

(And the ES1) 

I've not done this with the Clayton kit or the ES1 but both kits include parts to make up non powered bogie so the same system should be possible. The ES1 bogie is a much shorter wheelbase and a shorter motor than the Mitsumi might be needed. Mike's use of the High Level LoRider works well but as I recall it took him quite a long time. I have suggested to Chris that a range of motor bogies might be a good idea.

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7 minutes ago, Michael Edge said:

I've not done this with the Clayton kit or the ES1 but both kits include parts to make up non powered bogie so the same system should be possible. The ES1 bogie is a much shorter wheelbase and a shorter motor than the Mitsumi might be needed. Mike's use of the High Level LoRider works well but as I recall it took him quite a long time. I have suggested to Chris that a range of motor bogies might be a good idea.

Thanks, Mike. HL motor bogies would be good, yes. 

 

With your system on the EF1, the modeller is left to their own devices for setting the height/position of the worm relative to the gears, and for sourcing parts. Thanks to High Level, I'm from a generation that has never had to get gears and worms meshing (it's done for us in a HL gearbox), and I wouldn't know how to do it, or what worm/gears to get. 

 

 

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27 minutes ago, Michael Edge said:

Mike's use of the High Level LoRider works well but as I recall it took him quite a long time. I have suggested to Chris that a range of motor bogies might be a good idea.

 

I classed it as R & D Mike!

I keep plugging away at Chris also!

 

Mike.

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37 minutes ago, Daddyman said:

Thanks, Mike. HL motor bogies would be good, yes. 

 

With your system on the EF1, the modeller is left to their own devices for setting the height/position of the worm relative to the gears, and for sourcing parts. Thanks to High Level, I'm from a generation that has never had to get gears and worms meshing (it's done for us in a HL gearbox), and I wouldn't know how to do it, or what worm/gears to get. 

 

 

The gears I mostly use are moulded in white plastic, Squires usually sell them but they are easily available from China. They are quite coarse and not too difficult to set.

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Finished J27, grit blasted and ready for painting.

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More work on 40936 at the weekend.

 

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Tender sides formed to shape, I don't really like half etching to leave beading but this flat Midland stuff is difficult to do in any other way. Once the tops are rolled over the sides are quite rigid though.

 

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The lower part of the side is reinforced with an etch which will support the tank and coal space top. Broaches through the handrail holes locate this, solder only along the bottom edge - soldering along the top edge would produce a line of distortion here on the outside, sometimes this comes in the right places but I prefer to avoid it if possible. The back of the tank is already soldered to the footplate.

 

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This is what it looks like from the inside, sides just soldered along the bottom (from the inside) and to the back.

 

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Tank top slid into place, the half etched line will locate the rear coal plate, holes for water filler and dome. All soldering done from underneath here, this is the point where the tank can easily get out of square so careful checking is needed.

 

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Attached to the loco, rear coal plate soldered in (all back details and handrails added before this), the front coal plate is just resting in place at the moment. The vents (lost wax castings from the spares box) are a bit high and might be replaced if I'm feeling picky enough.

 

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Finally for today, the firebox on the ROD.

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